Apc 1400 It's not lighting up at all. the battery side will make a tone and show batt low. there is power to the ckt breaker and when you plug it in the red led on the back flashes once. Did anybody find this fix ? befor I really get deap into trubbleshooting it. Thanks Brian

Where do they say relay is ?
RH IP fuse block headlamp relay position J
Headlights Circuit Description (Oldsmobile)
Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied through the LH underhood fuse block LCM/HDLP circuit breaker via CKT 242 (RED) at all times to the following components:
• Headlamp switch
• Lamp control module (LCM)
• Switch of the RH IP fuse block headlamp relay position J
When the headlamp switch is placed in the ON position, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied via CKT 10 (YEL) to the coil of the headlamp relay position J. The coil is permanently grounded to G201 via CKT 1450 (BLK). The coil is energized and the contacts close providing battery positive voltage (B+) to the headlamp dimmer switch via CKT 1346 (LT BLU). When the headlamp dimmer switch is in the LOW position, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied via CKT 12 (TAN) to the following components:
• Left low beam headlamp
• Right low beam headlamp
When the headlamp dimmer switch is in the HIGH position, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied via CKT 11 (LT GRN) to the following components:
• Left high beam headlamp
• Right high beam headlamp
The LCM provides battery positive voltage (B+) via CKT 1346 (LT BLU) through the headlamp dimmer switch to the headlamps under the following conditions:
• The ignition switch is in the RUN position.
• The ambient light sensor indicates darkness.
The lamp control module (LCM) monitors the ambient light conditions through the ambient light sensor. The ambient light sensor is a variable resistor whose resistance changes as the surrounding ambient light level changes. As the ambient light decreases, the resistance of the ambient light sensor increases. The LCM measures the resistance across the ambient light sensor and determines whether it is day or night.

Do you know how to do voltage drop testing ? Leave the blubs in there sockets turn the low beams on , measure voltage on the power side , LH low beam yellow with black stripe an for the RH low beam dark blue wire . If you have battery voltage there, power side is good . Then check ground side both are yellow wires , test with lights on . if you see 6 volts , 12 volts .anything more then .03 millivolts you have a ground side problem . The lights ground through the light switch .
Low Beam
Voltage to the headlamp switch is available at all times from the HDLP SW fuse 7 through CKT 1940 (ORN). When the headlamp switch is turned to the HDLP position, the headlamp power relay coil is energized through CKT 352 (WHT). A signal is also sent to the body control module (BCM) that the headlamp switch is ON. When the headlamp switch is in the AUTO or PARK position, the ambient light sensor (located in the right speaker grill) senses either daylight or darkness and sends the signal to the BCM. When the Ambient Light Sensor detects a dark condition, the BCM produces a signal that will energize the headlamp power relay through CKT 352. The relay coil is grounded through terminal F7 connector 2 of the underhood fuse block to CKT 350 (BLK) to G102. When the headlamp power relay is energized the relay supplies power to the LT HDLP and RT HDLP fuses. The RH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 198 (DK BLU) from the RT HDLP fuse. The LH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 712 (YEL/BLK) from the LT HDLP fuse. Both headlamp low beam bulbs are grounded by CKT 524 (PPL) through the underhood fuse block to the multifunction switch (low position) contacts through CKT 10 (YEL) to the headlamp grounding relay in the body relay block through the normally closed contacts to CKT 1850 (BLK) to G200.

replace the battery.

Pull this circuit breaker till you can find the problem. Check for applicable trouble codes. You have a lighting control module, I can't troubleshoot that component from here.

1. Four beeps every 30seconds (On Battery LED will be illuminated)
This alarm indicates that the Battery PowerSupplied outlets are now supplying battery power as opposed to power from theutility. If the UPS determines that the input utility power is unsafe for yourcomputer equipment, the UPS will switch to battery power.
Note: Ifthe power disturbance is brief, you may only hear one or two beeps.

2. Continuous Beeping (On Battery LED will beilluminated)
This alarm indicates that a Low Batterycondition has been reached and that the UPS will soon shutdown. Once the UPStransfers to On Battery operation, it can only stay on battery for a limitedamount of time. The UPS will sound this alarm about two minutes before thebatteries are totally exhausted. Once exhausted, the UPS will shutdown and turnoff its output power to your equipment. If you hear this tone you shouldimmediately shutdown your computer to prevent data loss or corruption.

3. Continuous Beeps for 30 seconds (BackUPS OFFICE 250 and 280 ONLY)
This alarm indicates the unit has detected anOverload condition after it has performed a self-test during start-up.

4. Continuous Two-Tone Beep
This alarm indicates a severe Overload wasdetected while the unit was on-battery operation. This tone will continue tosound until the unit shuts down.

5. Continuous Tone (On Battery LED will beflashing)
This alarm indicates that the battery-poweredoutlets are overloaded.

6. Continuous Tone (On Line and On BatteryLEDs flashing) Back UPS OFFICE 350,400, and 500 ONLY
This alarm indicates that an internal UPS faulthas occurred.

Try looking for a small circuit breaker on the side that says "press to reset" - you could have tripped it accidentally when you unplugged the iPod.  Also, try pressing and holding the UPS power switch for 10-15 seconds.  That should force a power on as well.

how long the lifespam is the battery you had are using it? if you check the voltage that is 13.5dcv but it could be the Ah is already running low.. try to change with a new batts and power up the ups ifi it not workin that mean it the hardware issue..

The sealed lead acid batteries in them have come down a lot in price now, see here for one on batterytrader, 12v 7ah sealed lead acid battery

Any UPS monitors the incoming AC level to determine if it is needed or not.  I think the APC unit doesn't know any more when it is needed; it's sick.

Better late than never...

The older Smart UPS models are peculiar in the way that they appear dead (will not power on) if the battery is completely bad.

Replace the battery, and the UPS should come back to life.