Question about Razor MX500 Dirt Rocket

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Rear wheel sprocket turns with chain, but doesn't "grab" to turn the back wheel. I have removed the wheel and taken the sprocket off the wheel, but I don't know exactly how pop the housing open to get to the bearings. It will grab occasionally, but generally just spins. Any suggestions?

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BEST SOLUTION GO TO A GOODWILL MOST OF THE TIME THEY HAVE-
BIKES FROM $10.00 TO $40.00 AND YOU LOOK FOR A BIKE
THAT HAS A GOOD BACK WHEEL AND YOU'LL HAVE EXTRA
PARTS HERE IS A LIST OF PLACES GOODWILL&THRIFT STORE&
SWOPMEET THAT HOW I FIX MY BIKES..
HAPPY HUNTING.
D,R,CLAUDIO

Posted on Jan 20, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning

Losen the screw

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning

The problem is witht he flywheel on the rear wheel assembly. I had mine fixed by a professional last night (at a bike store). Razor uses a very cheap spring that is designed to fail and then to top that off did not use enough bearings as well (12 bearings short out of the factory). My son had also sprayed WD-40 all around the back axle (trying to make it faster). This is bad because, the bearings are packed in grease and WD-40 is a de-greaser. Never get WD-40 anywhere near your back axle!!! Anyway, the flywheel was way easier to remove than I thought. It is threaded onto the rim's axle shaft and just screws off. Once you get the flywheel, off you have to take it apart, fabricate a new spring (my son's new spring came from an old 10 speed's tensioning spring), reset the 3 pawls, repack the bearings, put the flywheel back together, and screw it back onto the wheel. I will post a YouTube video on this later. Hopefully this is enough info to get you started.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

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95 gpz chain tighten how to


hey Dominico,
This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension.
The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!!
. NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..

TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.)..
GREAT JOB!!

Aug 08, 2017 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

The pedals will turn but the wheel does not


The rear set of gears, called the "Freewheel" are shot, and need to be replaced. You can find another wheel, but this will probably prove to be difficult, or you can pay for a new freewheel or your bike shop may give you an old one for a discount.
Good luck
Joe

Aug 29, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Rear sprocket slips when chain is on the smallest sprockets. when I shift to the two largest sprockets on the back wheel, it peddels or ingages fine


Sprockets are all connected and turn together as a unit. The chain could be skipping over the teeth on individual sprockets.

I suspect severe chain and sprocket wear.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Jul 10, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

I have a derbi senda sm125 and when moving if i go above 5000rpm it starts jolting from the back wheel??? Any ideas what it could be?


Sounds like your chain is stretched and not fitting the sprocket properly or is just too loose. Check your front and rear chain sprockets for wear and ensure the teeth are straight. Check to insure the chain fits snuggly on the rear sprocket. As a chain stretches over its life, it won't fit in all of the teeth on the rear sprocket. This will cause the chain to ride up on the teeth at higher RPMs and jump (causing the feeling of a jolt or **** as it grabs again). Typically, the chain should have no more than an inch or so of play when properly adjusted.

Jun 22, 2011 | 2004 Derbi Senda SM 125 4T

4 Answers

Chain is turning but the rear wheel is not moving


What??? RLtoFixYa doesn't know what they are talking about. Your problem is a faulty/broke "one way roller clutch" which is threaded onto the rear wheel. I've already replaced 2 on my son's MX500.....

May 25, 2011 | Razor MX500 Dirt Rocket

1 Answer

Drive chain slack?


Typical chain slack should be about two inches from bottom edge of the chain to the top. Grabbing the chain in the middle (halfway from sprocket to sprocket) and moving it up and down. After adjusting , you should raise the rear wheel off the ground and spin the back wheel checking every 6 inches or so that the slack does not get tighter or looser. If the chain gets tighter as it goes around the sprocket it is an indication that the chain is stretched at that point and needs to be replaced.

Nov 17, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 450 F

1 Answer

I had to take off the rear weel of my falcon apache mountain bike to get it in my car o travel from my grandparens home to mine but i cant get the back weel gear arm back on. how do i do this??


By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful. Al K

Oct 14, 2010 | Falcon Cycling

1 Answer

I want to replace my old chain with a new one how do i do that


To replace the main drive chain,you need to remove the chain cover on the engine case which should have a couple of bolts or screws securing it. Loosen the back wheel by untightening the rear axle bolts and then loosen the rear adjusters either side. Make a note of their positions they need to be be the same position either side, although the new chain may need a different setting but as long as they are both the same tightness each side is what matters.Loosen the wheel and move it forward when the axle is loose and the pin holding the axle nut is removed.Unscrew the two 6mm bolts holding the front sprocket a the engine side of the chain.Turn the part on the front sprocket where the two bolts have just been removed so that it lines with the gearbox splines and pull it forward along with the front sprocket at the same time as you push the loosened rear wheel the chain should pull away from the teeth on both sprockets.
To put on the new chain just reverse the proceedure.the ajusters need to be tight but not too tight just enough play to move it up and down slightly remember both adjustes need to be the same position each side and check that the wheel is in line with the bike and straight as uneven adjustments will cause the wheel to be turned slightly off the required vertical position.

Aug 30, 2010 | 1991 Honda NT 400

1 Answer

Drive chain goes loose and tight on back wheel turn


No.That was the problem.The chain and the sprockets needed to be renewed.
When you will take, the rear sprocket's base, off the axle check it's bearing.Just put your finger in and turn it slowly to see if it "locks" instantly.It will be nice if you renew it now that you disassembling the chain drive system.

Jun 07, 2009 | 2002 Honda CBR 600 F(4)i

7 Answers

Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning


The problem is witht he flywheel on the rear wheel assembly. I had mine fixed by a professional last night (at a bike store). Razor uses a very cheap spring that is designed to fail and then to top that off did not use enough bearings as well (12 bearings short out of the factory). My son had also sprayed WD-40 all around the back axle (trying to make it faster). This is bad because, the bearings are packed in grease and WD-40 is a de-greaser. Never get WD-40 anywhere near your back axle!!! Anyway, the flywheel was way easier to remove than I thought. It is threaded onto the rim's axle shaft and just screws off. Once you get the flywheel, off you have to take it apart, fabricate a new spring (my son's new spring came from an old 10 speed's tensioning spring), reset the 3 pawls, repack the bearings, put the flywheel back together, and screw it back onto the wheel. I will post a YouTube video on this later. Hopefully this is enough info to get you started.

May 10, 2009 | Razor MX500 Dirt Rocket

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