We are replacing an old switch plug combo with a leviton T5625. We have two black wires, two white wires and ground. The old combo just had one black wire connected to the screw on the right side of the outlet. How do we connect with two screws on the right.

Dear Dean,
Generally speaking, black indicated "hot", like the color of "burnt". White indicates the color of ground. ( ice or snow)
One of your black wires should be "incoming" ( that means have electricity in it NOW", and the other one would go to where the item was that was timed.
After you find which wire is "hot", the other black wire goes to the opposite side of the switch.
You may need to reverse the black wires if it is wired backwards to the ":on" & "off" readings.
The ground would be the white wire.
If you have a green screw, the ground (white) could go there.

Not sure how it is wired now:
Following link shows how to wire combo device to operate light and outlet at same time.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#switch-outlet

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Typically in three way residential switching the Red and White are used as travelers from 3 way to 3 way. That in mind, connect the black to black, red to one red and the other red to the white. mark the white wire with black tape.

In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

black to brass colored screws /white to silver screws /green is ground

See product to make sure we are talking about same thing:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?oe=utf-8&rls

If this is not your device, add a comment any time or fixya offers phone support for a fee.

This ordinary switch-outlet combo.
One side of device: there are dark screws on one side of device: Black hot wire from circuit breaker connects to either dark screw. The dark screws are connected by a brass plate, so both screws are identical.
Other side of device: there are silver and brass screws.
Wire going to Load (light fan motor) connects to brass screw.
White neutral wire connects to silver screw.

Here's how to test for Hot and Neutral wires.
Separate all wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire >> this wire will connect to dark colored screw.
Now you have identified Hot wire >> test hot wire to other wires (excluding bare ground).
Tester lights up on Neutral > this wires connects to silver screw.
Final wire goes to Load and connects to brass screw

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire