Correct procedure for replacing outer axle seals on a ferguson TEA 20 tractor

Removing a rear axle on a Ford 1710 tractor can be a complex process that requires careful steps to ensure safety and proper reassembly. If the outer axle oil seal is leaking, it's important to address the issue. However, due to the intricacies of tractor repair, I strongly recommend consulting the tractor's official service manual or seeking assistance from a professional tractor mechanic who is familiar with your specific tractor model.
That being said, here's a general outline of the procedure to remove a rear axle:

1. Prepare the Tractor:
   • Park the tractor on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
   • Block the wheels to prevent the tractor from rolling.
2. Drain Fluid:
   • Drain the rear axle oil by removing the drain plug.
3. Remove Wheels:
   • Remove the rear wheels from the tractor.
4. Disconnect Components:
   • Disconnect any components that are connected to the axle, such as brakes and hydraulic lines.
5. Remove Axle Housing Cover:
   • Remove the axle housing cover by removing the bolts.
6. Access Axle Shafts:
   • Once the cover is removed, you'll have access to the axle shafts.
7. Remove Axle Shafts:
   • Depending on the design of your tractor, you may need to remove various components to access and remove the axle shafts.
8. Replace Seal:
   • Once the axle shafts are removed, you can access the outer axle oil seal. Carefully remove the old seal and replace it with a new one.
9. Reassemble:
   • Reassemble all components in the reverse order of removal.
   • Make sure to properly torque all bolts and nuts according to the manufacturer's specifications.
   • Refill the axle with the appropriate oil.
10. Test:

• Test the tractor to ensure that the issue is resolved and that there are no leaks.

Remember that this is a general guideline, and the actual procedure can vary depending on the specific design and components of your Ford 1710 tractor. Incorrect disassembly or reassembly can result in damage or safety hazards. Therefore, if you're not experienced with tractor repair, it's highly recommended to seek professional assistance or consult the tractor's service manual for accurate instructions.

Try rotating till it goes but knowing farmers former one myself you have tried this already, either wrong shaft or not lined up square level may just need some gentle moving about on no account force it or hit it have pataince good luck.

Ferguson Tractor Identification

http://www.oldengine.org/members/ferguson/serial_numbers.html

Difference between TEA 20 and TE 20

http://fergusontractors.org/nfs/wp-content/uploads/technical-articles/Tractor-Identification.pdf

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferguson_TE20

Ferguson TEA 20 photos

For replacemente check here


https://www.vapormatic.com/massey-ferguson-tractor-parts.ashx


or here


http://www.masseyferguson.us/parts-and-service.html


or here


Massey Ferguson Tractor Parts New MF Parts



Massey Ferguson Tractor Parts Catalog Discounted Replacement Aftermarket...



If still can't find your part, do your own google search using terms

massey ferguson tractor replacements

Found my files. Go to Wengers.com ferguson tea 20 brakes # 1810352m , if it looks like yours , call for size or maybe some advise. good luck.

Can get linings for big drums brakes 2"W x 15-1/2"L from Steiner and they are for Ford 9n 2n. I had to use them on my to-20 because of it has tea-20 brakes system,really confusion and took a long time to find what would work. If you need the complete shoe they have a setthat could work. Call them and ask a rep. but linings and rivet tool are a lot cheaper if you can get by. If this don't work let me know ,I have another sorce on file somewhere. Always check Ford N series for parts, they are alot alike because of Ford Ferguson partnership.

Hello, I would say just go to a NAPA parts store and ask for a filter. If they have one they would show a part number for it. Usually the older tractors for Ford and Ferguson did not use filters or at best had metal filters that you cleaned in solvent and reused. There are Repair Manuals in soft-cover which are available at places like Tractor Supply or online.

The old tractor makers considered the transmission and differential sealed systems. This means like your new car today does not have a filter in the differential. The old tractors had manual transmissions and the filters are common in automatics.

Be careful not to overfill the trans because on old tractors the gear lube will go out the axle tubes and into the brakes. If operated on a slope, it is possible to tilt the axle tube and have the excess lube flow into the low side axle tube, ruining the brakes.

Some of the parts for the Ferguson will interchange with the N Series Ford. Ferguson had some Industry innovations that later were stolen by other makers.

The Massey Ferguson's use the same oil as the N series tractors. 90W for the transmission.

You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.



Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Removal Procedure

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Place shop towels underneath the outer joint to protect from any sharp edges.




4. Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
5. Remove the drive axle nut (2) and the washer.
6. Remove the lower ball join from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. If you remove the right axle, turn the wheel to the left. If you remove the left axle, turn the wheel to the right.
7. Disconnect the wheel speed speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
8. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.




9. Use the J 28733-B in order to disengage the axle from the hub and the bearing.
10. Separate the hub and the bearing assembly from the drive axle. Move the strut and the knuckle assembly rearward.




11. Remove the inner joint from the transaxle using J 33008 attached to J 29794 and J 2619-01 for the intermediate shaft, if equipped.

Installation Procedure Notice: Prior to installation of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during installation.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.

1. Install the drive axle (2) into the transaxle (1). Place a non-ferrous drift into the groove on the joint housing and then tap until the drift is seated. Be careful not to damage the axle seal or dislodge the seal garter spring when you install the axle.



Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.

2. Install the drive axle (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2).
3. Install the stabilizer link. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
4. Connect the wheel speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
5. Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.



Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

6. Install the washer and the new drive axle nut (2).
Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor in order to prevent the rotor from turning.
Tighten
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).

7. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
8. Lower the vehicle