Short 30gal. Rheem single element. Will not heat up, But there is 220 voltage to element.

If it's a 110v and it's getting 220v then you need to just call an electrician to wire it correctly.

A 220 volt circuit does not require a neutral, so both 110v legs go to each element. The elements draw from each of these 100v legs. Are you having any problems with it heating sufficiently?

you may have a bad grand or the element is not heating

Lower element can be burned out and still read 230V across screws

1) We know thermostats are working because elements test 230V.
2) We know upper element is working because tank has some hot water.
If upper element is burned out, tank will have no hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

3) Here's how to test lower element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4)Here's how to replace element
Rheem element is 4500Watt bolt-in type
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

5) Rheem manual says: Heaters furnished with standard 240 volt AC, single phase non-simultaneous wiring, and 4500 watt upper and lower heating elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-spec-sheet.pdf

Rheem 4500Watt element

Check the elements, if you have access to a meter to check them. If they are getting power to elements and you have no hot water.
The elements are not working correctly. I had some elements check out ok till the thermostat's turned on and the elements didn't heat.
Sounds like the elements are bad.

The heating element must be shot. There is an adj there, but it is a tiny dial, and I'm not sure about the 30 gal, but most heaters have 2 elements. If yours starts out too hot then runs out, Blame the element, or check the breaker with a meter to make sure you have voltage to both legs of the 220 volt line. Sometimes one will quit there, and leave you half power. Check it out.

Hi,
The heating element that is giving you the 220 reading is bad... replace it...
That one has to be satisfied in order for the electric to be switched to the other one... it will only run one at a time...

Heatman101

Two possibilities. 1 failed upper or lower Tstat 2 Shorted element
To test element: disconnect both wires to element terminals. use continuity tester to see if there is continuity through element (one probe on each element terminal) If no continuity element is bad. Then test for continuity between each element terminal and the water heater itself.( one probe on element terminal and one probe grounded on bare metal or inner tank.) If there is continuity from terminal to ground, element is bad and also can cause tank to continue heating even when thermostat shuts off. This is because the thermostat only shuts off one pole of the 220 and a shorted element can continue heating from the 2nd pole.
If both elements test OK and water heater heats the full tank( tank feels hot at bottom element access panel when no hot water for 2 hours) most likely the lower thermostat is bad.

I would say then the heating element has a resistive short to ground. The 1.98m Ohm reading is high, but not high enough -- should be infinite. I would say replace heating element... And, when you install new one, make sure there is no water leaking thru heating element cavity and ensure area around cavity is clean & "in order".

How old is water heater?

Charlie

A heating element is either good or bad and no inbetween. If your unit has two elements, then one of the elements is bad. If it is a single element unit then the thermostat has gone bad. Do a voltage check to see if you have power going to both elements and if you do then do a ohms test on the elements. They shoudl read 5 to 10 ohms. If one of them doens't, then you know it is bad. If by chance check the elements and everything is working, the only thing that can be left is that the dip tub has ruptured somewhere close to the top of the outlet. But I would put my money on a bad element.