My Ice maker stopped working (no water for ice) I replaced the water supply solenoid and plugged it back in. Ever thing worked fine except when the water valve cycled open. Water began leaking from the frig where goes into the back of the freezer to the icemaker. Could line be frozen or blocked???

Either valve solenoid supplying water to ice maker is bad, or supply tube to ice maker is frozen(which is typically caused by leaky water valve), or ice maker is bad.

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

First, If your water dispenser is working, is the water flow strong?
If not, when you lost your water supply, the water supply valve may have become plugged.
You need a water supply of 65 PSI to fill the ice maker.

1.) Check the water pressure - With a measuring cup - run the water from your water dispenser. You should get 15 ounces of water in 8 seconds. If not then you have a plugged water supply valve.

2.) Ice maker frozen fill tube - At times the ice maker fill tube can freeze up. Inspect the fill tube and defrost with a hair dryer.

3.) Start Jump the ice maker - You will need a short piece of 16 gage wire or so, approximately 4" long, with 1.2" striped bare wire at each end.
a.) There is a plastic cover on the front of your ice maker. The cover just pops off. With a butter knife pop off the front cover.
You will see the Control Module.

b.) In the lower left hand corner, you will see two holes 'T' & 'H'.
While holding the freezer door switch in, insert the jumper into these holes. After 8 seconds remove the jumper still holding the light switch in.
Is there vibration?
Is the gap in the center of the gear broken?

You may have a burned out circuit or motor, or broken gearing.
This component is replaceable. You need to remove three face screws.
P/N: Substitution: W10190935 Cost: $110.00 (Sears)
A New Ice Maker P/N Part #: 4317943 Cost: $110.00.

Suggestion: Go into eBay, plug in the part number. You can get a new ice maker for $40.00.

4.) Bad ice maker solenoid valve. In the back lower right hand corner you have a dual solenoid valve. The smaller diameter tubing is your ice maker.

Substitution: 2188542 Cost: $67.00
Check the solenoid valve: Unplug the refrigerator. Disconnect the contacts on the green solenoid. Set you multi-meter to the lowest Ohms. You should get a reading across the two contacts of '0' if the solenoid is good.

Pull the refrigerator out and follow the water line to the back. It will go to a double valve solenoid. One half is for your water dispenser, the other for the ice maker. It is possible that this solenoid has failed. You can order the part online and replace it pretty cheaply. Just remember to turn off the water supply (usually under the sink) and unplug the refrigerator before hand and have a towel ready to catch water that will drain from the lines.
To order the new part get the full model number of your refrigerator and go to the GE website and look up their replacement parts page. You should be able to search for that model and all of its related replacement parts there.

my kenmore did the same thing, It had a duel water solenoid on it and one that let water into the door water dispenser went bad. also my ice cube started to get smaller, the rubber in the other side of the water solenoid was dry rotting and eventually ruined the ice maker. I replaced the duel solenoid and ice maker and had no more problems.The solenoid is on the back of the fridge, it is what the main water supply connects to.

You may have an ice plug frozen in the fill tube, for that use a hair dryer to try and unfreeze the ice plug. Be sure the mechanism is actually working. A clock mechanism rotates a cam on the front of the icemaker that hits a micro switch for a period of tme that operates a water solenoid. That solenoid pulls a plunger valve out of the water line, allowing water to flow up to the icemaker. When the cam pulls off of the microswitch, it interrupts the power to the solenoid. The plunger snaps back in the line due to a spring compressed on the first operation. If that solenoid is not getting power, then the water does not flow. The Ice full bail operates another microswitch that stops the clock mechanism from operating. If the tang on that microswitch is broken, then nothing happens.

You are going to have to determine what part is defective, the solenoid or the ice maker itself. The ice maker is the easiest to replace as it is connected by a plug and a couple of screw clamps holds it in place.

Typically, a solenoid is used to allow water into the ice maker and it does it on a programmed cycle. I'll assume you check the obvious things like kinks in the water supply line, water supply pressure, water valve being turned all the way on, etc. Did you try tapping the solenoid lightly with a screw driver handle to see if the internal workings might be stuck? Have you unplugged the unit in an attempt to 'reset' any electronics that control ice making? You might want to consider removing the ice making unit (usually a couple of screws and a plug) and letting it thaw out for a while.

Had the same problem. Replace the water filter and is should begin making ice again.

If no ice is being made at all it is probably one of three problems. The ice maker itself needs replacing. The water inlet valve needs replacing. Or the freezer is not 10 degrees or less. You will need to test the water valve solenoids. If you have water in the door then there will be two solenoids. One for the ice maker water and one for the water in the door. They are both mounted on the same assembly. The easiest way for you to test is with a meter. You want to check for continuity on the solenoid for the ice maker. If no continuity, it is bad. If you have both water in the door and ice maker and no meter you can swap the two quick disconnects on the two solenoids and then see if you still get water from the door by now using the other solenoid. If you do not, then you know that, that solenoid is bad. If the soloind is good then you probably have a bad ice maker not calling the ice maker fill valve to allow water.

Same thing happened to me. I unplugged the refrigerator, plugged it back in and it worked. I guess the computer system reset itself. Easy fix.

On most Amana cabinets the water supply for the water and ice are from two solenoid valves. The water coming in goes to a double water solenoid valve splitting the incoming water so the fact there is water coming through as chilled water is not verifying that there is water supply for the ice maker. If technically minded you could locate this valve (normally at the back rhs ; compressor section) and try switching the supplies to check the solenoid valve. If you have water coming through then it may well be the icemaker module not asking for the water supply. As the simplest first step I would try defrosting the whole machine overnight and see if there is an improvement. I do know that checking the module is time expensive and would really need to be done by an engineer or alternatively replace this item. Hope this is of some help.