Cant put the thing back together after putting in new blade !!!fat max knife

Don't touch the blade by hand use a pair of pliers. There should be a screw in the center of the handle, just remove it and you will see how to remove the blade.https://youtu.be/pFnbiw88Z8c

I assume you are talking about the riving knife behind the blade.
when you take the hole cover off the saw table, you'll see a lever down on the side of the riving knife that can be either straight up or you can pivot it down toward the blade. When its up, its for through cuts, the riving knife sticks up higher than the blade. <b>When you turn the lever down toward the blade, the riving knife drops down a bit so you can make kerfs that don't go all the way through the wood.</b>
When you take the blade out, you can also take the riving knife out if you are going to put a dado cutter in, but <b>don't remove the riving knife</b> otherwise.

Wood has all kinds of internal stresses that are relieved when you cut the wood. Often the slot the blade cuts results in the two sides of the wood curving together and pinching the blade. This if very dangerous because the back of the blade can get pinched and through your wood at you faster than a major league pitcher can throw a fast ball. I still have a bruise on my chest from this happening to me before thanksgiving. Good thing it was the whole end of a 2x4 and the wood didn't split into a sharp spear as the blade grabbed it. Don't take out the riving knife unless you are using a dado blade and then put it back in right afterwards.

If you don't have one, here's the manual for your saw:
http://tinyurl.com/npkv29o

The most important thing is that the blade and riving knife are centered with each other. If not, you may have to shim the riving knife.

The bolts that hold the carriage under the table are intentionally sloppy so that you can loosen them and align the blade/knife with the miter gauge slots.
Lay a long metal straight edge against the side of a carbide blade teeth with the blade all the way up, and make sure the straight edge is parallel with the miter gauge slots in the table. Then tighten the bolts on the underside.

The way the knife works is that it has two knife blades put together. These blades are serrated (notched). When the power is on, the blades move sideways and basically saw through whatever they are cutting.

there is a little black button on the end where the blade comes out. With the blade in the out position,push in the button and pull out the blade. With button pushed insert new blade or turn the old one around to use the other end.let go of the button and you are ready to go.

On the side there is a big gold wheel, twist counter clockwise and the case should split in half, the blade is held by a magnet, prise the old blade off and replace with new one, then put case back together and tighten gold wheel clockwise
Goodluck!

Not sure exactly because I don't own one, but the review seems to indicate you push the blade positioner all the way forward, and push a release to remove the old one out the front, and then push a new own in until it clicks in place. With the blade positioner all the way forward.
But the review said it did not work well.

http://www.crunchgear.com/2008/12/05/review-stanley-fatmax-utility-knives/

If it is a 10-816 then Knife swivels open for easy blade change and clean out - no tools required, much like 10-999
If it is a 10-778, you don't really open it. You press little button on left side, behind the blade wiper, and this releases blade. Push red button on rear of knife, to open blade storage
if it is a 10-999 then press the button on rear and rotate the two halves.

Google: how to change blade in Stanley 10-379 utility knife. Stanley website shows how knife & blade look on the outside. Put it together so it looks like that. Sorry, but ain't don't know how to send the picture to you.

Hi, these are precision blades and can not be sharpened like that, unfortunately purchasing new blade is your only option!