Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo - Dryers

Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

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