Wash cycle does not start. I push the normal wash (or any other cycle) button and a tiny amount of water flows. If I leave it alone, eventually, several lights start flashing. I have tried pressing the delay/resume button once, then the drain/off button twice, which stops the lights flashing. However, it does not resolve the issue.

I find that some of my clothes don't seem to get wet enough to clean them properly. I like to use the pre-wash cycle to wet everything thoroughly then the machine goes through the normal wash cycle and it seems to do a better job. Just an idea.

1 Press down the overfill protection float on the floor of the dishwasher's tub in the right, front corner near the door. If it cannot move up and down freely, the "clean" light will flash.
2 Make sure the dishwasher's water supply is turned on.
3 Look for suds on the inside of the dishwasher and wipe them off with a wet cloth. If the washer's sensor detects suds or foam, it may not run. Use the correct amount of dishwasher soap, not hand soap or detergent for washing dishes in the sink, to ensure suds and foam do not form. Also, make sure the cap on the rinse aid dispenser is secure--this will keep suds and foam from forming as well.
4 Close the dishwasher door. Push the "normal wash" button, then push the "heated dry" button. Push the "normal wash" button again, and push the "heated dry" button again.
5 Watch for all of the lights on your Kenmore dishwasher's panel to turn on and then turn off. The washer may start a new wash cycle at this point; if you do not want it to do so, press the "cancel" button. Otherwise, allow the dishwasher to run through this cycle.

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
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The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

1) Make sure wash cycle is 100% finished (sometimes dryer will start before - usu on synthetic cycle & allows water to continue flowing in)

2) Manually start the dry cycle after you ensure wash cycle is finished and push in the wash cycle button.

Hope that helps! If not, you may need a new control module (I did - hope you don't!)

Hello Ellsaesser,

Dishwashers typically leave water in the drain system exitting the pan but not a lot of water. If yours does then make sure you clean the drain screen ( normally located in or around the drain tube exitting the pan of the dishwasher..) If after cleaning that and after a normal wash cycle you continue to have significant volumes of water in the pan, the pump, lines leading to and from that pump may be restricting flow or damaged.. Those are a few of the normal culprets for why there is a lot of water in the pan of dishwashers after a cycle.. Hope that helps you identify the problem and resolve it,..,
Regards

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Before you do anything, make sure that the plastic part in the bleach dispenser container is pushed in. Fill with bleach to the "max" line, written on the plastic part. Start the wash cycle and make sure that water goes into the bleach dispenser. Once water flows into the dispenser, the bleach/water mixture rises and should automatically dispense into the washer. We had this same problem. We removed the dispenser unit and took it to the sink. We then filled it with water and it started coming out from the bottom automatically. So sort of suction is caused from the amount of water and it starts to flow. Basically, you aren't adding enough bleach into the dispenser if the water flows into it as the wash cycle runs.

It is most likely a very slow fill problem ,either the cold or hot water supply is restricted and the machine cannot sense the right water temp. and will shut down .

Machine cannot wash properly with a small amount of water.

Ckeck ,the screens in the water valve or at the hoses at the top where the faucets are ,clean them or replace them but never leave them out .

seems your flow switch is faulty