When I feed the board in it stops then starts again. ever four inches. Leave a little snip in board. I've replaced the belt an the chains on the in feed and out feed still have this problem.

Try an oil change. If it’s noisy at start up replace it.

Sounds like you have a bad motor controller. If your machine is over 7 years old you'll also need a new walking belt.

what codes are the ecm throwing? many different variables depending on the codes, post the codes and we can go from there.

Sounds more like the way the bobbin has been wound, is it loose and uneven or tight and smooth. Is it properly into the tension spring? being loose doesn't sound right, a thread under correct bobbin tension is usually pretty firm.

Is it loaded into the bobbin holder the right way ?

Also check the bobbin itself hasn't been damaged in some way, not worn/bent. It needs to turn smoothly in the bobbin holder so if one edge has been bent a little this will cause problems.

When winding bobbins, you must have tension on the thread so it winds smoothly with consistent tension on the thread. Most machines have a little tension disc on top or the thread goes through the regular tensioner in order to achieve this. But I always wind bobbins at about 3/4 speed and also add a little extra tension by holding my scissors handle on top of the thread spool so it doesnt bounce around. Also start winding with a little tail pulled through a hole on top of the bobbin and wind until this starting end is covered, then stop and snip off the tail. Then continue winding and watch the thread, giving it a nudge so that it fills evenly across the bobbin, not just all in the middle.

Think of it like the garden hose reel; if you wind it really fast the hose all goes into the middle of the reel, then jams up and you can't get the whole hose onto it. Same thing, wind smoothly and evenly across the whole depth of the bobbin so that the thread is smooth and even. Then when the thread feeds off it will be smooth evenly tensioned and should stitch out evenly.

There is some good trouble shooting information on this page too which might help you to work out what is causing this thread breakage.
http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/a/mtroubleshot.htm

The Scheppach hms 260 planers and others are very like each other. Ask the distributor for a manual it is very good and gives loads of setup info on belt tightening setting up the cutters greasing the needle rollers 8-9 needle rollers etc. I stripped mine last summer I searched the web and found there are detailed manuals with useful annotations added.

To your question the motor provides belt driven power. the rubber rollers for the timber feed mechanism is chain and gear driven and the cutter head is belt driven with a tiny belt.
the motor belt tension is gravity Assisted in that you slacken the motor mount and the weight of the motor pivots and takes the slack out of the belt. so slacken off the motor mount from the side of the planer you can see the vertical slot with a nut in it in the picture below beneath the letter h in sheppac. Tilt the planer and rest it 45degrees or more against something substantial, it is very heavy. Access to the motor and belt is from the base lift and rotate the motor after slackening that bolt, remove the belt and try the motor without any load. If you wanted you could disengage the feed Rollers drive by turning the drive feed lever from Ein to Aus (on to off) as in the photo below but it is simple though a little awkward to remove the Motor belt
so unless there are some seized bearings a broken and jammed feed roller chain I'd suspect a faulty motor start capacitor or the like. Then if you have a faulty motor you're already most of the way through removing it! Check the roller feed, cutter head drive mechanism by removing that blue cover visible in the photo. Exceedingly unlikely to be the cutter head seizing but the rubber rollers run in plain bearings and are very difficult to lubricate. could be the chain tensioner mechanism that has broken or the chain but that is easily checked with a 10mm spanner and an Allan key to remove the feed mechanism lever.and the blue plastic cover

I had this problem with a Grizzly that is chain-driven. One of the links broke. I replaced the link, and it's been fine ever since.

there are two knobs on the bottom of the seatbelt base. they are on either side of the plastic base. If you jam something in the middle of those two stops between your floorboard and base of seatbelt holder it will work perfectly!!

First-DISCONNECT THE ELECTRIC

From the rear of the machine, take off the back. Remove the old belt any way you can. A tin snips works well. Next, put the new belt through the tensioner and then feed it onto the motor. Next, feed the belt around the main transmission pulley. It's the largest so it will be the easiest to get to stay in place. When it gets real tight, a little more than 1/2 way on, turn the basket to feed it on the rest of the way. If you got it through the tensioner in the right direction, it will be very tight. If it's loose, remove it and put it through the tensioner the other direction.

This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

Here is procedure for 1996:

Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
   

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
   

1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
   

1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
   

1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
   

1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
   

1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
   

1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
   

1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
   

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
   
2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
   

18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
   

Installation
NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

1. While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
   

1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
   

1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
   
2. 
   
   1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
      
1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
   
2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
   
   While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
   
1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
   

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt

1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.

1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
   

1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
   
1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
   
1. Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
   
1. Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
   
1. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
   
1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
   
1. Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
   
1. Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
   

Researching Your Model. The Rollers are Chain Driven, but this Planer is a V-Belt Drive. Any slippage of Your Belt? Are the Chains Loose?? (there's a Drive Chain on one Side, and a Driven Chain on the Other Ends of the Feed Rollers) Never Hurts to apply a "Light" Coat of Chain Lube to these Parts(Gears & Chains)
DO NOT SAND THE ROLLERS!! Cleaning them with Denatured Alcohol is OK ( I prefer Brake Parts Spray Cleaner Myself)...the Planer Knife Head & the Front & Rear Rollers all work together as a Unit.
What Thickness are You Trying to Remove?? Usually I don't like removing More than 1/32" per pass...
Have you contacted DeWalt Service?