1997 Chevy Silverado Car Alarm w/remote Start Wiring Instructions. I have a SPY XLS Performance Serie 2300 Alarm w/remote start I am trying to install. I have 90% of it installed, but I am stumped on a couple of things. First thing I need help with: Wiring the of "lock" and "unlock" According to the diagram of the lock system I have, which is a "Negative Triggered, Original Relay Driven" System. (I believe) "Unlock" Yellow -Needs a +12v source ? White - Needs to be connected to the wire of the Factory Door Lock Module. (I have done this part, And tested Functionality with a power probe.) Orange- Needs to be grounded or is not used? "Lock" Yellow - Needs a +12v source ? White - Needs to be connected to the wire of the Factory Door Lock Module. (I have done this part, And tested Functionality with a power probe.) Orange- Needs to be grounded or is not used? The second thing I need help with: "Flame-out wire (-) 200mA. Outputting ground signal while alarming to activate the flame-out relay." I have a diagram of this but don't understand it. (Not sure if I need to use the flame-out relay with my truck or how to wire it.)

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what size engine do you have?

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Regards, Lee Davidian

Hello! I need a little clarification...When you give wire colors define if they are the vehicle's or the alarm...The vehicle wire colors for Lock/Unlock are as follows...Lock= Light Blue...Unlock=White
Constant +12 volts=Red...Accessory=Orange...Send a comment..Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Hello m1..... Here is the link to this alarm manufacturer including manuals, etc. If this site does not answer all of your questions, click on their contact icon and speak directly with their technicians. http://www.xlsperformance.com/cars_alarm_starter.htm

Joe

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If you want my honest advice and thats not to bother with this as the amount of questions on here about cars with these sort of add things that go wrong after a couple of years and the owner is stuck out and cannot start vehicle .Or damaged remote or the recivers in the vehicle gone wrong ,if you need to then use the remote door opening part but do not interfere with the rest of it because at least if the remote door lock packs up which it will you can still use the key to open the door ,but the rest of the device ?? Better just installing a heater in the cylinder block that you plug in to keep engine warmish then at least the cabin heater will soon warm up quicker and the engine will start ,I have seen these here in europe but only a few and when i take vehicle for the annual mechanical inspection ,if they see it fitted then it has to be removed or the vehicle will not pass the inspection because its illegal to leave a unattended vehicle with the engine running .Well that my advice anyway ,the less things on a vehicle the better it is as less to wrong

When anything is "Negatively Triggered" this means that usually that, that Circuit, has a resistor of say 10K Ohms, to the Positive Voltage rail. To "Signal" that it is to be "Active: the Circuit is "Pulled Low" by a short circuit to negative/ground. This then gives a negative going signal, that's detected, and the Action performed.


Now usually any Inputs or Outputs have these Pull Up Resistors on the circuit board, and the simple grounding of the wire will "Switch" the Input. So to operate this we would install a switch, with one end on the wire, and the other end wired to the Negative/Ground, when the switch is tripped, it puts a short circuit on that Wire, and in turn, it will operate whatever is operated when that particular switch is tripped.

Most Often an Output is "Tied High" or left alone, as usually the "Logic: of that wire, High or Low, +Voltage or -/0 Voltage, is handled by the electronics internally. You can tell this by measuring the Voltage to earth when the unit is powered up, but not connected. High Out/in puts will have a +12 V voltage on it, or 0V on it. Toggling this line the "other " way activates that wire. If NOT used it is usual to "Tie them high" unless told otherwise.

All/Most Inputs and Outputs aren't needed for actual operation, and can be tested by Tying Inputs & Outputs high or Low, to activate or test a function...

A flame out relay, most likely wouldn't be used, unless you were wishing to monitor for Flame etc. (Sometimes used when running nitro)

Also I find a light bulb on the end of a pair of wires invaluable when testing inputs and outputs, using a small Bulb, you can use it to see an Output or to Trip an input and a visual indication is a lot better when testing

It seem that you do have a good understanding of whats going on, hope i haven't confused you too much and have been of some help..