Replaced both lower and top elements and upper thermostat still no hot water. proper elec. going to unit.what could it be?

Hello Joseph

Test elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
If elements test out, then replace both thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
Otherwise, if you have some hot water, then power to unit is good and probably at least 80% rated voltage, breaker is good, and upper element is at least functional and probably working perfectly, reset button is not tripping so tank is not overheating.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.

Sounds like you might have a thermostat problem, or burned out lower element
Lower thermostat and both elements will test for 120V at all times because upper thermostat only cuts off one leg of 240V circuit, and other leg is hot all the time.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Yes, the elements alternate being turned ON.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Look at label on side of tank: Each element has rating of 4500Watts, but tank rating is also 4500Watts > that shows that both elements are not ON at same time.
This is standard wiring for water heaters.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Water heaters can we wired differently, for example converted to simultaneous operation where upper thermostat and lower thermostat are no longer wired together, so upper and lower parts of tank are independent.
Lower thermostat is replaced with ECO protected thermostat identical to upper thermostat.
Another 240V circuit breaker is added to breaker panel, and that 240V line runs directly to lower thermostat. So upper and lower thermostats are each on separate 240V line.
The advantage of simultaneous is faster recovery of hot water, but downside is probably higher electric bill. Simultaneous wiring is usually reserved for larger tanks like 80 gallons, where elements can fall behind the amount of hot water needed.
Otherwise, ordinary non-simultaneous operation is proven to be satisfactory, if your home has not experienced shortages.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-off-peak-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment for more free help.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You have 2-element tank, so that is 240V heater.

If you have some hot water, then that says specific things.
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity to heater is good, and circuit breaker is good.
-You are not experiencing overheating.
-Reset button is not tripped
-TP valve is good
-Insulation and covers are installed correctly and thermostat is not receiving cool air that will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

That leaves 3 suspects:
1) Upper or lower thermostat. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if problem persists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
2) Loose wire or bad wire between upper and lower parts of heater. Open covers and look for loose wire and signs of burning especially on lower element. Do full troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
3) Bad lower element. Test and replace element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=052c9e32-ce37-48d7-8990-9e430f23fef3

82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
You might want to get serial number off model and call Rheem for specs on that special order.

Your water heater energy factor may be the same because 'energy efficiency is based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day.' This means an aircraft carrier can be considered highly efficient despite overall cost. And naturally the guys making the aircraft carrier are also doing the rating.
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
The advantage is more hot water available rapidly when demand is high. This is called first hour recovery.

One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.

You can open the top up again. I would not turn the temp higher than 130 degrees, maximum. However, there should be above the thermostat a red button. This is where the power wires connect to the thermostats and heating elements. Sometimes this button needs to be reset, press it and discern if you hear a click sound. This means that the high temperature safety switch has tripped open and you had to manually "reset" it. There are two thermostats by the way. The water heater usually works this way. There are two thermostats and two heaters. The upper tank heater turns on first and it heats the top half of the tank. Then when the thermostat above is satisfied it then allows the bottom heater to come on and heat the bottom half of the tank. You might want to set the bottom heater thermostat as well. This is made this way because it is actually faster and more efficient to heat the top half first and the bottom half secondly. Try this first with the reset button. We could check voltages, but that requires a level of knowledge and safety that I am not sure that you are comfortable with. Pictures of the upper and lower thermostats and connections will help if the "reset" does not do the trick. By the way, not meaning or implying anything, but did you move the thermostat in the right direction? Sometimes the dials can be confusing.

Lower element can be burned out and still read 230V across screws

1) We know thermostats are working because elements test 230V.
2) We know upper element is working because tank has some hot water.
If upper element is burned out, tank will have no hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

3) Here's how to test lower element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4)Here's how to replace element
Rheem element is 4500Watt bolt-in type
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

5) Rheem manual says: Heaters furnished with standard 240 volt AC, single phase non-simultaneous wiring, and 4500 watt upper and lower heating elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-spec-sheet.pdf

Rheem 4500Watt element

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Thermostat may be bad and not suppling power to lower thermostat and element.

Sounds like Thermostat not working properly if no power there..

Do you have power to top element and power going into top of bottom thermostat if it has one.

Makes you feel good to save some money right? Have a great day!