My dishwasher get stuck after the pre rinse with both lights ,the pre rinse and wash lights flashing,failing to go to the wash programe.

There might be a blockage or the motor is stuck.

Regular eco should be enough even if tea coffee wine has dried, if light soiling then quick 30 would do.

Quick 30 is a main wash and dry program
Regular Eco is a pre wash, main wash, finalrinse, and dry program.

For delicate Chinaware and Cristal glass I would recommend rinse & hold. As a pre wash to loosen up debris and then wash by hand, to protect delicate glase and gold work.

Hope this was useful

I would say that there's a very high probability that the heater in the machine has failed. It does the cold pre-rinse but when it gos to the next stage and tries to engage the water heater it detects an open circuit and faults out. You will find replacement heaters on eBay and probably videos on how to replace on YouTube

What 2 cycle lights? Samsung dishwashers indicate problems and errors by making different lights light up and/or flash. We would need to know the model number too.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

go to sears parts direct .com you will see the part that is stuck and you can order it fromthem. they onlyneed the model#.

Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

Change the circuit board, timer/progrsmer.
Take it out and clean contacts,
Look for burnt circuit line and solder a fine bead carefully on the circuit board, difficult. Use the pot and pan program.
Vitally

Something with the program module , get a technician if worthwhile.
The flow dection (expensive can't be) because pre wash gets water supply. Might be loose wire or broken button. Any handy guy around that can cautious open then model behind the panel and chreck connections. I fixed mine last year with a dot of 2 component glue because of broken switch. Unluckily, the flow detector broke after 10 years (interconnected with automatic water stop

The pre wash light flashing is usually an indication that the washer has failed to take in cold water, possibly due to low pressure, or restricted inlet hose.
If it does it when it is the rinse mode, then I would suggest you check the filter is not blocked.
Remove lower rear panel, remove large black hose to bottom of tub
Remove filter inside and clean., check inlet to pump as well.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.