Question about Power Acoustik PTID-8960 Car Video Player

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I have a power acoustik 7" foldin down scrEen that mounts in my rOof It has one female wire plug that has 5 prong holes 3 on one side 2 on the other. I need the wire with male plug to go from monitor to the player.

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Have you tried ebay? i found alot of good parts on there.

Posted on Dec 10, 2010

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1 Answer

How to hot wire fuel pump for 97


How to
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump With a Relay in the Trunk




Terry Littleton - tlnfm@peganet.com


You Will Need

Get 15 ft 10 gauge wire, 3 ft 14 gauge wire, and a Bosch 4 or 5
prong 30 amp relay. Any place that installs car alarms should have a Bosch
relay. Get a heavy 10/12 gauge wire 30 amp fuse holder. They can be found at
auto parts stores and come in the old glass or new plastic spade type fuses.
Make sure it is heavy wire and not like most that use like 14/16 gauge wire. You
will need 2-10 gauge butt connectors, 1-10 to 16 gauge butt connector, 2-10
gauge female spade connectors, 2-14 gauge female spade connectors, 1-10 gauge
and 1-14 gauge ring connector. Soldering gun, wire
protector.

Procedure



  1. Disconnect battery. Put a ring connector on one end of the 10
    gauge fuse wire and attach that to the post at the rear of the alternator. Run
    it over to the front of the drivers side valve cover and attach to a piece of
    ten gauge wire that you will run to the back of the car. I put mine inside the
    car and it was actually easier.



  2. Run it through the hole next to the powermaster where all the
    wires go through the firewall. I routed it over behind the emer brake pedal,
    down behind that kick panel, took off the sill plate and put it inside the
    plastic wire protector (it does come open, just a pain to figure it out). Take
    out back seat and run it from sill up to opening that goes into the trunk. There
    are other wires that do the same thing, just follow them. Bring wire down to the
    hinge support. There is already a hole right there to put a bolt and nut through
    to mount the relay. I had a radioshack relay but it broke so I got a
    Bosch
    and it seems a lot sturdier. Good choice.

  3. Just a word of caution. Follow the wires down to the side of the
    trunk floor. The copper colored wire is the one to attach the trigger wire to.
    It looks like bare copper wire but is actually coated. The coating is so hard, a
    regular scotch lock wouldn\'t make contack on mine, so I cut out a half inch
    section of the insulation and soldered the trigger wire (a small piece of 14
    gauge from the relay prong 86) to there. I wrapped it in tape and put corrugated
    wire guard over it.



  4. The ground wire from the relay (a small piece of 14 gauge from
    prong 85) can go to the bolt hole you use to mount it to the hinge support. Just
    clean off the paint first. Then hook up the 10 gauge wire from the alternator to
    post 30 on the relay. The remaining prong on a 4 prong relay is the "Power Out"
    that will feed the alternator voltage to the pump(s). If you have a 5 prong
    relay the two remaining prongs should be labeled 87 and 87a. One is the "Power
    Out" when relay is energized, the other supplies power when the relay is not
    energized. Use a test light to determine.



  5. Run the remaining heavy gauge wire from the "Power Out" prong
    (when energized) from the relay through the rear of the trunk to the fuel pump.
    Notice the plastic cover over the BIG rubber grommet that takes all those other
    wires from the trunk out under the back of the car? Forget about getting your
    new ten gauge wire through there. Just drill a hole big enough to run the wire
    through covered with some corrugated protector. I put mine right next to the
    rubber plug. Then run the ten gauge wire to the pump.



  6. The 3 wires going to the sender/pump are Black-Ground,
    Pink-Fuel Level Sender, and Brown/White Stripe-Fuel Pump motor. Cut the
    Brown/White stripe wire after the connector on the fuel pump side and attach the
    new ten gauge wire. Leave enough to reconnect stock later if desired. Put a butt
    connector on the old cut wire so it doesn\'t short on anything. I wire tied stuff
    up neat and used wire protector. If you have an external pump, you can run
    another piece of 10 gauge to it for power from where it splices into the
    original pump wire.



  7. Now the wire coming through the firewall goes over behind the
    drivers valve cover and along the back edge of it under the EGR tubing in wire
    protector and splices into the other fuse wire from the
    alternator.



  8. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump
    prime. The only problem I had was in the connection of the trigger wire to that
    copper colored wire in the trunk like I mentioned above.

Hope this isn\'t confusing. I did it this way to keep things neat
in the engine compartment.

Jun 26, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

970A-G46 AM3+ ATX AMD Motherboard


You're trying to use a proprietary part on a different computer.

The plug connector you have was made for a 8(?) contact pin plug connector. (Usually 1 pin is missing, for a 'Key' pin)

The Front Panel header on the mobo you're trying to use it on, has a 10-pin Front Panel header. (Again, 1 pin missing for a Key pin)

You need to separate those individual connectors.
Yeah, I know.

This involves trying to slice/saw them out, and there's Nothing dangerous about that! (Sarcasm)

Moving on............

The connectors in that female plug are female metal terminal connectors. Individual connectors. Example,

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9420&utm_medium=Affiliate&ref=cj&utm_campaign=CommissionJunction&utm_source=CommissionJunction

The opening in the front, of course goes over the contact pin, in the Front Panel header on the motherboard.
The back of the connector, shown at the top; is crimped around the insulation of the wire.

The barrel shaped connector slides down into the individual socket hole, in the plug connector.

Looking at the Molex connector, observe the two 'Tangs' that stick out on either side. -> /

When the Molex connector is inserted into the plug connector's socket hole, the Tangs press against the sides of the connector.
When the Molex connector is at the correct depth, in the plug connector socket hole, the Tangs 'pop' out.

They pop out in small depressions, in the sides of the socket hole.
See how they angle towards the back?

If you slide the correct diameter of needle, down in the Front of the plug connector, (And in socket hole), you can depress one tang at a time.

Slides into the socket hole, right next to the Molex connector, and pushes down on the Tang.

Once depressed by the needle, lift up on THAT side a little.
Keeps the tang in a correct position.
Then insert the needle on the other side, and depress that Tang.
You can now remove wire and connector.

Takes a little practice on the first one. Second one goes a little faster, then you're on your way. Just sounds difficult explained so detailed.

With the individual wires, and their connectors; you can plug each wire in where you want. Connect to the contact pin in the Front Panel header, that you wish.

Trying to cut that connector apart, and leave individual amounts of plug for insulation; may prove unfruitful.
Most of the time the material in-between two of those Molex connectors, is very thin.

Maybe one connector will come away with enough material, maybe not. Most will not.

Also you risk slicing your fingers.

Or you could find a plug connector that fits that group of 7-pins, and transpose the wires over to it.

The front of your computer is the Front Panel.
The area of contact pins on the motherboard, that the Main wires connect to, is the Front Panel header.

Main wires being;
Power On switch wires
Power On LED light wires
HarDDrive activity LED light wires
Reset switch wires, IF used

Since you have the manual, out of curiosity are pins 2 and 4 Power On LED?
1 and 3 are HarDDrive activity LED?
5 and 7 are Reset switch?

For additional questions please post back in Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Feb 23, 2013 | MSI Computers & Internet

1 Answer

No power from gigabyte motherboard


Nope

Just basic diagnostic tools

First thing to check IS the Power Supply.
Then the diagnosis goes on.

So far all you have told me is an assumption. You ASSUME the Power Supply is OK.

Don't.

1) If ALL of the LED's were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can draw from 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is,

By having JUST the CPU on the motherboard, and the fan on the Power Supply doesn't work; you have just PROVED that.

Do you have a multimeter?
An economical one can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores.

There are 3 main voltages to check. Check while PSU is plugged into mobo. (Power Supply Unit; MOtherBOard)

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts
All are DC Voltage. (Dotted line over a solid line for Multimeter)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
The Red wires are 5 Volts
The Yellow wires are 12 Volts. All are DC Voltage. (DCV)

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the mobo.
The BACK of the power cable's connector; is where the wires go in.

Power Supply unplugged from power; a straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole with an Orange wire in it.
The paperclip slides down alongside the insulation of the Orange wire, and touches a metal female terminal.

Every wire going into the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a Molex female metal terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The brass tip openings can be seen, in the Playtool link's middle photo. (Tip openings; Front. Paperclip touches Back)
MUST touch that metal terminal.

Another paperclip is slid down into ANY socket hole, with a Black wires in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

Making sure the paperclip jumper wires, are of the correct length by cutting; there is no way they will accidentally touch each other.

Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter to Orange wire paperclip;
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter to Black wire paperclip.
You should read 3.3 Volts (DC)

Do the same for the Red - 5 Volt wire. Red wire and Black wire.
12 Volt - Yellow wire and Black wire.

Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

On another note;
Did you just recently mount the mobo to the computer case?
Did you use metal Standoff's, or plastic Spacers?
(Standoff - Hex shaped brass piece, usually 1/2 inch tall; and with a threaded hole on one end, and a threaded shaft on the other)

The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is an integral part of the computer case.

IF, there is a Standoff on the Support Plate, that is NOT lined up to a motherboard mounting hole, it can touch exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard.

This will short circuit the motherboard. MOST of the time when the 'offending' Standoff is removed; everything is OK.

Dec 25, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Dell lattitude cpx charging pin and - TERMINALS


What? Is it time to wake up?

Oh yeah, Dell Latitude CPX,

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Latitude-Notebook-650-MHz-Pentium/dp/B00005UJYF

AC adapter example for above,

http://www.prontocharger.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=d1161

DC Power Jack example,

http://www.all-power-jack.com/Dell/Dell-Latitude-CPx.html

I see the dilemma. The plug from the AC adapter has 3 socket holes, and the DC Power Jack has 3 prongs.

DC electricity has a Positive connection, and a Negative connection.

To find out which socket holes are for Positive, and Negative, let's look again at the DC Power Jack,

http://www.all-power-jack.com/Dell/Dell-Latitude-CPx.html

The Top view shows the jack upside down, and turned around. (In relation to how it mounts on the motherboard )

The bottom left view shows the jack primarily how it sits, (Mounted), on the motherboard.

The bottom right view shows the jack turned over, laying on it's front.
Also laying over to it's right side.

Note the three prongs. (Flat bladed pins )
The one in the middle is Positive.
The two outer prongs are Negative.

Looking at the bottom Left view, the Top prong is Positive, and the two bottom prongs are Negative.

Match it up to the plug on the AC adapter cable.

Going to test the Voltage coming out? (20 Volts)
The red Positive probe lead goes into the top socket hole, in the plug.
The black Negative lead goes in either bottom socket hole.

What if I'm wrong?

A Digital multimeter will just show a negative value. -20
An Analog multimeter's needle will go down towards the 0, instead of towards 20 Volts. (DC)

Just switch the probe leads around.

For additional questions, or if I am way off base, post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Apr 29, 2012 | Dell Computers & Internet

2 Answers

I have a 3 prung male plug, and a 4 prung female plug. Can I switch the 3 male plug to a 4 male plug?


Hi, and yes you can, its done all of the time. You want to change the plug on the wall, not the cord. That is the way it is done. Very simple. Turn off breaker to the 4- prong. Go to any hardware store such as home depot and get the 3 prong 220 volt female plug, both are the same volts, just made for different cords is all. The male is on the cord. On the 4 prong female plug thats on the wall, just loosen all 4 screws. 2- wires are hot, either black in color, a black with a piece of white tape on it is the neutral, and a bare ground which is much smaller. When installing the 3 prong female, you will use all 4 wire to. 2- hot, ! neutral, and a screw for the small bare ground. There will be a drawing on how to connect the wires with the new plug if you are not sure. Normally, there are 3 black wires, 2 hot , 1 neutral. Some times there may be 2 blacks and 1 red. A black and red will be hot.I am sure they will all be black. The plug is marked on it. It will have L-1, L-2, N, and Ground. When you remove the 4 prong female, it will be marked the same. Be sure the power is off! L-1 and L-2 are hot, and the 3rd is N or neutral. Then the small ground. Very, very, simple to change and to know which is which. The terminals on the plug are colored also. The 2 that are copper colored are for the hot wires. The brass or silver is the neutral. And you will see the ground screw. I hope I haven't confused you, it is very easy. Just when removing the wires to the old plug on the wall, which should be a 4-prong female, the 2 wires on the right and left side of the plug are going to be the 2 hot wires. The other large black is the neutral goes to top or bottom, its marked like I said with a N. and a small bare ground. Always change the plug on the wall to fit the dryer from 3 to 4, or 4 to 3. They are both 30 amp plugs, 220 volt. Very easy, you can do this!! Please rate me on my help to you.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Jan 04, 2011 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No power to my rca tv model number F27733SB. the slot for the power cord that goes from the tv to the wall is missing a 3rd prong on the "male" side that is actually in the Tv. The unversal...


Hello
Only a two prong wire is needed for any TV to switch on. A three prongs are used for electrical equipments like Mixie, Grider and son, to get onw of the prngs to earth point to avoid accidents due to electric shock. Even though, your tv is provided a three prong wire for its power supply, only two of them are used inside the tv to work on. One amoung them are set free inside the TV. You kust try by replaceing the present wire by a new one. If the problem perists, inform me through Fixya, with as much as details you can send. OK.

Nov 06, 2010 | RCA F27733SB 27" TV

1 Answer

The dryer has a four prong male plug and the outlet is a three prong female - which do I change? the dryer cord is the easiest, but how do I connect the leads?


4 PRONG PLUG WIRING: 2 HOTS(RED&BLACK) 1 NEUTRAL(WHITE) 1 GROUND(GREEN). 3 PRONG PLUG WIRING: 2 HOTS&1 NEUTRAL. YOU MUST USE 2 HOTS & 1 NEUTRAL ON A 3 WIRE PLUG. THE GROUND WIRE(GREEN) WHICH IS HOOKED TO FRAME OF THE DRYER IS NOT USED ON OLDER 3 WIRE PLUGS. IT IS AN ADDITIONAL SAFTEY GROUND ON NEWER MODEL 4 WIRE PLUGS.

Dec 25, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MDE7400AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Red light keeps flashing..


my kicker was doing the same thing, and come to find out the power was loose,
1.check power connection,
2. check ground
3. check remote wire.
4. check that your amp isn't mounted on -metal-
5. check your fuses onboard the amp,
6.check you speaker wire
7.check your rca jacks
8. check that your gains aren't too high for the wattage

May 12, 2009 | Power Acoustik PS2-1250 Car Audio...

1 Answer

Can I install a 3 prong dryer power cord versus a 4 prong one and will it work?


yes,is your wall plug 3 prong?remove the small cover off the back of the dryer,you will see 3 screws,remove the 4 prong cord,all you have to remember on the 3 prong is the middle wire on the cord goes to the middle screw on the terminal block, mount the other 2 one on each side and your done,let me know how you do-mike

Apr 21, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Cant figure out how to wire a power acoustik 5 farad power cap.


Use to independent grounds always better that way. Better full field for power and less distortion. I like to use 4 guage or lower like 0 guage for high powered systems. Good luck, thanks for using FIX YA

Jan 09, 2009 | Power Acoustik Pcnc3.0f 5 Farad Digital...

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