What is the main difference between pipe threads and bolt thread?

The 96 uses a temp sensor for the computer to inform it of the temperature. This 2 wire sensor does not control the temp guage. The 86 has a single wire sensor because it controls the guage only

Reliance-Rheem may have changed away from generic parts so you have to buy special order parts from them.
I have not heard of this before for elements... but Rheem does that for other parts.
Avoid Rheem products.
Rheem also makes a 1-3/4" element to fit Marathon water heaters, instead of standard 1-1/2"
Actual thread size for standard water heater is same as 1" pipe, except straight thread instead tapered pipe thread.
See if 1" pipe will thread into water heater element opening.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

Gene Haynes



If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If this is a different Alternator someone may have assembled it and clocked the 2 halves out of alignment. Or you may have different diameter threads.
Sometimes early models can use one thread and problems arise and they change the thickness or go from fine to coarse threads.

The main thing is the engine block. A different Alternator may sit somewhere different on a turbo or non turbo or with or without A/C. Sometimes it is recommended that you remove and KEEP your original pulleys.

Try putting the bolts into the fixtures to check out the block treads. You may have shanked bolts in one place and full threads in another.

The bolts are "Lefty Loosey"

Hello, different size, grade, thread size, application will always have something to do the torque specification of bots, nuts, plug etc.


Remember, to get the proper torque specification on bolts, nuts and threaded holes. If these have been used on an engine and it being repaired/overhauled. To get the proper torque spec these items will be need to cleaned inside and out, threads on bolts need to be straightened, and the same for nuts and bolt holes in the engine block, head, timing cover----all bolts, nuts, threaded casting holes all need to be rework to presence condition... Almost new in shape. Now, once this is done you can get the proper torque requirement and to get these spec. all bolts, nuts, threaded holes need to be oiled first. They the torque can be set properly as to the manufactures specifications. Also, there are not set standards for torquing head bolts on a 265 cu/in Chevy and compared to a Ford 265 cu/in engine, they will be totally different.



If you don't the torque spec. go to your local library they have many American Auto Maintenance Manual that will give the all the information that you need. So, just remember all bolts, nuts, machined holes with thread need to cleaned and resized the threads. To torque any bolt will need to oiled--not much.... I hope this helps you and I wish lot of luck. GB...stewbison

This is not going to be an easy 1:1 conversion
I believe Argentina uses BSP British Standard Pipe
Unknown what thread is used for water hose in Argentina.
US sold products use NPT tapered pipe thread
US has different-but-similar thread for water hose.

So you need at least 2 adapters:
Adapter from 3/4" BSP to 3/4" NPT.
And then adapt 3/4" NPT to 3/4" hose thread.
And then possibly another adapter to hose thread in Argentina.

There is no immediate link announcing which vendor sells BSP to NPT adapter fittings, in Argentina.
However, the following link sells adapters, in Australia:
http://www.irrigationwarehouse.com.au/category2_1.htm

You can google the following search parameter in Argentina:
Adapt NPT pipe thread to BSP pipe thread

Issue is compounded with 2nd adapter problem.
Melnor sells water timers that screw onto a hose bib.
3/4" hose thread is different than 3/4" NPT pipe thread because 3/4" pipe thread is tapered, while hose thread is straight with no taper.
When connecting a water timer to hose bib, the seal is made with rubber washer.

Home centers in US sell 3/4" NPT pipe thread to 3/4" hose thread.
http://quinbyhardware.com/Products/SKU/4294278/3-4MHX3-4MIP-BRASS-CONNECT/LAWN-and-GARDEN/WATERING/GILMOUR-MFG

You can google the following parameter, but sources might not be in Argentina: 3/4" hose thread to 3/4" pipe thread

Common American National Standard Pipe Taper Threads

• NPT - National Pipe Thread Taper
• FPT - female (internal) National Pipe Taper threads
• MPT - male (external) National Pipe Taper threads
• NPTF - Dryseal American National Standard Taper Pipe Thread (ANSI B1.20.3)

For NPT threads a sealant compound or Teflon tape must be used for a leak-free seal. For NPTF no sealant is needed for a sealing.
Characteristics of NPT (also known as ANSI/ASME B1.20.1 Pipe Threads, General Purpose):

• tapered thread 1o 47'
• truncation of roots and crests are flat
• 60o thread angle
• pitch is measured in threads per inch

Note! Pipe sizes do not refer to any physical dimensions. The outside diameter of a pipe or fitting must be measured and compared to a table for size identification. A 3/4" NPT pipe thread has an outside diameter - OD - of 1.050 inches.
Each thread size has a defined number of threads per inch - TPI, or pitch. The 3/4" NPT pipe thread has 14 threads per inch. Both the TPI and OD of the thread are required for positive identification of thread size because more than one size have the same TPI.
NPT - American Standard Pipe Thread Taper 1) Pipe Size
(inches) Threads per Inch
TPI - pitch Approximate Length of Thread (inches) Approximate Number of Threads to be Cut Approximate Total thread Makeup, Hand and Wrench (inches) Nominal Outside Pipe Diameter
OD
(inches) Tap Drill
(inches) 1/16" 27 0.313 1/8" 27 3/8 10 1/4 0.405 R 1/4" 18 5/8 11 3/8 0.540 7/16 3/8" 18 5/8 11 3/8 0.675 37/64 1/2" 14 3/4 10 7/16 0.840 23/32 3/4" 14 3/4 10 1/2 1.050 59/64 1" 11-1/2 7/8 10 9/16 1.315 1-5/32 1-1/4" 11-1/2 1 11 9/16 1.660 1-1/2 1-1/2" 11-1/2 1 11 9/16 1.900 1-47/64 2" 11-1/2 1 11 5/8 2.375 2-7/32 2-1/2" 8 1 1/2 12 7/8 2.875 2-5/8 3" 8 1 1/2 12 1 3.500 3-1/4 3-1/2" 8 1 5/8 13 1 1/16 4.000 3-3/4 4" 8 1 5/8 13 1 1/16 4.500 4-1/4 4 1/2" 8 5.000 4-3/4 5" 8 1 3/4 14 1 3/16 5.563 5-9/32 6" 8 1 3/4 14 1 3/16 6.625 6-11/32 8" 8 1 7/8 15 1 5/16 8.625 10" 8 2 16 1 1/2 10.750 12" 8 2 1/8 17 1 5/8 12.750 14" 8 14.000 16" 8 16.000 1) The taper is 1/16 inch in an inch, which is the same as 3/4 inch in a foot (angle 1o 47')
NPT threads are not interchangeable with NPS - National Pipe Straight - threads.
NPT threads may look similar to ISO 7/1 threads. However, ISO and NPT threads should not be mixed. ISO threads have 55o taper angle versus 60o for NPT. The NPT root and crest configurations are also different from ISO. For ISO threads pitch is usually measured in millimeters (may be expressed in Inch). The pitch are different.

Hope this helps!

Common Steps

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
   
2. Drain the cooling system.
   
3. Remove the accessory drive belt.
   
4. Remove the lower radiator hose (except Diesel).
   
5. Disconnect the heater hose from the pump, if fitted.
   

WARNING Most cooling system hoses use "constant tension" hose clamps. When removing or installing, use a tool designed for servicing this type of clamp. The clamps are stamped with a letter or number on the tongue. If replacement is necessary, use only an OEM clamp with a matching ID.




Heater hose pipe O-ring (arrow): twist gently when removing or installing; check condition; lubricate with coolant before installing

CAUTION Always wear safety glasses when servicing contact tension clamps.

1. Always use a new gasket when installing the water pump. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly before installation.
   
2. This would be a good time to replace radiator hoses. At least, inspect them carefully for aging or other damage.
   
3. If the heater hose pipe was removed, use thread sealant or equivalent on the pipe threads (if threaded), or lubricate any O-rings with coolant before installing.
   
4. Check the accessory belt routing against the plate in the engine compartment before starting engine.
   
5. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.
   

3.9L, 4.7L, 5.2L, 5.9L, 8.0L Gasoline Engines

1. Carry out the "Common Steps" above.
   
2. Remove the upper radiator hose.
   
3. Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
   
4. On engines except 4.7L, remove the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
   
5. Remove the heater hose pipe mounting bolt, if fitted.
   
6. On engines except 4.7L, loosen the bypass hose clamp at the water pump.
   
7. Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts and, on the 4.7L, one nut.
   

WARNING Bolts may be of different lengths. Be sure to note their locations.


To install:

1. Reverse the removal procedure.
   
2. The 8.0L engine uses an O-ring to seal. Use a new one and lubricate it with petroleum jelly before installation of the pump. Also, use sealant on the threads of the heater hose pipe, position the pipe as shown before installing the pump and tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
   
3. On pushrod engines, connect the bypass hose to the pump while installing it.
   
4. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on pushrod engines, 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 4.7L engine.
   
5. Spin pump to ensure the impeller is not rubbing against the timing chain case.
   
6. When installing the heater hose pipe, ensure that the slot in the pipe bracket is bearing against the mounting bolt. This will hold the pipe in as far as possible to prevent leaks.
   
7. Tighten pulley bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on V-6 and V-8, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) on the V-10.
   

Water pump mounting hardware—4.7L



Use a prybar to keep the water pump from rotating while pulley bolts are removed



Bypass hose clamp (arrow) must be tended to before removing the pump



Water pump bolts differ in length; note check location before installation—3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.9L gasoline engine shown



After removing the bolts, pull off the pump and place it in a safe location

The 1996 sensor has 3/8 pipe thread and the one for 2001 is more like a bolt thread, right? What I would do, is go buy a brass 3/8 inch pipe plug and drill it and tap to accept the newer sensor. Screw the drilled and tapped plug into the block and the new sensor into it.

heinrichkemp: The engine in your car is a GA16i
I venture you are asking about the head bolts when you refer to torque settings. The head bolts used on this motor are torque to yield (streach bolts) If you are reusing them, you need to check them to insure they are not stretched beyond limits.
The way you measure the bolt is with a micrometer.
Measuring close to the end where the bolt starts to thread in, about 10-12 threads up, take a reading. Now, go to the other end of the bolt where the threads end and measure about 10 threads in.
There should not be more than a .009 inch difference (.228mm). If there is, discard the bold and get a new one.

You must use a sequence to tighten the bolts, below is the sequence.
11
13 9 3 1 6 8

14 7 5 2 4 10
12 15

torque 11,12,13,14 & 15 to 8.3 Nm (6.1 ft lbs)
Torque the main head bolts by the numbered sequence to
29Nm (22 ft lbs) first pull
64Nm (47 ft lbs) second pull
Loosten all the bolts completely
Tighten the to 29Nm (22 ft lbs) first pull
Tighten bolt # 1 clockwise 85 degrees
Tighten bolts #2- 10 65 degrees
Nissan noted that if you do not have a torque angel meter, you can use a regular torque wrench and torque all the bolts to 69Nm (51 ft lbs)
The valves on this engine have hydraulic lifters, consequently require no adjustment.