How do I access the csm on my D80 - Nikon D80 Digital Camera

tis a process so here goes..... Central Security Module (CSM) enable/disable mode allows autolock feature to be turned on or off. To enter enable/disable mode, close all doors. Ensure ignition switch is in LOCK position. Perform the following steps within 30 seconds:

Turn ignition switch from LOCK to RUN position.
Press power door lock switch UNLOCK button 3 times.
Turn ignition switch from RUN to OFF position.
Press power door lock switch UNLOCK button 3 times.
Turn ignition switch from LOCK to RUN position.

CSM module should chirp horn indicating CSM module is in enable/disable mode and ready to accept program changes.

Press power door lock switch UNLOCK button once to command CSM module to toggle autolock feature on or off. Press power door lock switch LOCK button once to enable/disable autolock feature. CSM module will chirp one time to indicate autolock has been disabled.

CSM module will chirp once, followed by a longer chirp to indicate autolock feature has been enabled. Press power door lock switch UNLOCK button once, then turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit enable/disable mode. CSM module should chirp once to verify a feature change. Best to you.

make sure the cmos battery is not dead.

http://www.driversbay.com/drivers/bios-motherboards/asus/m2nbp-vm-csm/

shorted wiring in doors or shorted door lock actuator in door. A grounding of a wire makes them lock normally. SO, any bare wire touching metal will ground it and lock the doors.

Principles of Operations
The Door Switch Lock Function When a door lock switch is moved into the lock position or a door lock cylinder is rotated to the lock position, the door lock switch grounds the lock circuit input to the central security module (CSM). The CSM then provides 12 volts to one side of the door lock actuators contained in the door latch unit and simultaneously grounds the other side of the door lock actuators. This completes the door lock actuator circuit, causing the door lock actuators to rotate a cam assembly, which then locks the doors. The 12 volts that the CSM provides to the door lock actuators are provided to both door lock actuators from a single pin on the CSM electrical connector.
The Door Switch Unlock Function When a door lock switch is moved into the unlock position, the door lock switch grounds the unlock circuit input to the CSM. The CSM then provides 12 volts to the opposite side (relative to locking the door) of the door lock actuator(s) contained in the door latch unit and simultaneously grounds the other side of the door lock actuator(s). This completes the door lock actuator circuit, causing the door lock actuator(s) to rotate a cam assembly in the opposite direction, which the unlocks the door(s). The 12 volts which the CSM provides to the door lock actuator(s) are provided to each door lock actuator from the individual pins on the CSM electrical connector.
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CSM Self-Test The CSM has a self-test which can be entered into by using a diagnostic tool. This self-test will monitor the following CSM door lock inputs:

• Unlock switch (DTC B1311)
• Lock switch (DTC B1300)
• Exterior lock switch (DTC B1309)
• Exterior unlock switch (DTC B1341)

Before running the self-test, the following conditions must be met:

• The ignition switch must be in position II
• The driver and passenger doors must be unlocked
• The driver and passenger doors must be opened
• The hood and liftgate must be closed
• The set/reset switch, and liftgate release switch are not actuated

It is important to note that all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), with the exception of B1551 and B1553 can be retrieved with the self-test. DTCs B1551, and B1553 are continuous and will only be retrieved if the liftgate release is operated prior to retrieving the continuous DTCs.
Inspection and Verification

1. NOTE: Make sure that the battery is fully charged before starting electrical diagnosis.
   NOTE: Prior to carrying out the CSM Self-Test, make sure that both the driver and passenger doors are open.
   Verify the customer concern.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Binding latch mechanisms
• Binding linkage
• Misaligned door

• Central junction box (CJB) fuse(s)
• Wiring harness
• Electrical connector(s)
• Door lock switch(es)
• Door lock actuator(s)

Module Controlled Functions
The central security module (CSM) covers the following functions:

• Central door locking
• Double door locking
• Anti - theft alarm incorporating
  • forced entry
  • radio theft
• Radio frequency remote control of
  • central door locking
  • panic alarm
  • driver door unlock
  • liftgate unlock

For additional information, refer to Section 419-01A Anti - Theft - Active, Section 501-14A Handles, Locks, Latches and Mechanisms, and Section 501-14B Keyless Entry/Computer Operated Locks.

The CSM is in the passenger side kick panel I think.

Good luck

Press the MENU button to bring up the menu. Select the CSM menu, then select "World time". Select "Date". Use left/right to move between the fields, up/down to change the value of the current field. Press OK when done.

The owners manual has directions on changing or adding a personal code.

If you are talking about the factory code, the only way to do this, is to replace the CSM ( Central Security Module, mid 2000 MY and older it was called a RAP - Remote Antitheft Personality )

A RAP and CSM are not 1 for 1 pin compatible, so if you go to a junk yard for a new CSM, make sure the build date on the truck is 2-OCT-2000 or newer ( up to a 2004 Heritage or Lightning, not the new body style 2004 ).
The CSM is up behind the dash on the driver's side.
The CSM is the white color box center of this picture, that is the parking brake on the left side of the picture.


If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

The setting a Personal Code for the door keypad starts on page 111 in the 2002 owners manual.

check the fuses to the CSM ( Central Security Module ) .

CJB ( aka Central Junction Box, cab fuse panel ) Fuse # 15 & 29
15 is the BPP ( Brake Pedal Position ) Switch, so that should be fine, unless you cannot get the truck out of park while running and the brake lamps don't work.
29 is the fuse to the CSM ( hot in start or run key positions ).

BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, Engine Compartment fuse panel ) Fuse # 115 or 8. 115 is for the Supercrew body style and 8 is for the standard cab & SuperCab configuration.

This is for a build date after 2-OCT-2000 ( 2001 MY ).
Build date before 2-OCT-2000, the CSM is a RAP ( Remote Anti-theft Personality ), looks the same, same functions, but is not pin for pin compatible.
Fuses for this are CJB Fuse #8 and 15 and BJB Fuse #4.

With the CSM / RAP installed, the power door locks are controlled by the CSM/RAP, without the RKE ( Remote Keyless Entry ) installed, they are normal power door locks ( switch to the door lock direct ).

Worth a start checking the CSM / RAP fuse

You can check the status of your battery, including chargeble life remaining, in the Setup Menu. You need to have the CSM/Setup menu option to display Full menus, not Simple, in order to get battery status. So see if that battery status selection says you need to replace the battery.

Since you can shake the camera to get full battery, it's possible the battery contacts (on the battery or in the camera) are dirty, so check that.

If you do need a new battery, spend the few extra bucks to get a genuine Nikon EN-EL3e from a Nikon dealer. I have learned that many off-brand batteries do not properly implement a needed reserve, and "Genuine Nikon" batteries bought online from non-dealers are often counterfeit, just relabeled junk.

Found a great website that explains this since it's not in any of the manuals or other websites I have searched for so long!

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/ittlslave.htm

HOW TO DO IT
This covers the D70 and SB-600 which I use personally. It should be similar on other cameras. Any questions? Presuming you have USA equipment, call (800) NIKON-UX for details.
On your D300:
Press MENU.
Move up or down to: PENCIL menu.
Move right and down to: e Bracketing/Flash
Move right and down to: e3: Flash cntrl for Built-in Flash
Move right and down to: C Commander Mode

On your D70:
Use P, S, A or M exposure mode.
Press MENU. Go to the yellow wrench menu, and be sure CSM MENU is set to DETAILED. Otherwise you won't see the next setting!
Go to the CSM menu which looks like a purple pencil. Set #19, Flash Mode, to "COMMANDER MODE." Further click to the right to set the commander mode to "TTL."
You also may set the commander mode to Manual or AA, which are other modes to fire the remote flash. The SB-600 only works with TTL and Manual. You set the manual power level at the camera.
Don't forget to POP UP THE BUILT-IN FLASH!
On your D200:
Press MENU.
Move up or down to: PENCIL menu.
Move right and down to: e Bracketing/Flash
Move right and down to: e3: Built-in Flash
Move right and down to: C Commander Mode
Move right to get to a confusing panel of C Commander Mode settings.
Once in this confusing panel you can set everything for two external groups of flashes and the built-in flash. You move between the different fields by moving left and right, and set any field by toggling up and down.
In this panel you must select Channel, and set it to 3. Default is 1, which is the default for the SB-800. Don't ask me why they are different. Default for the SB-600 flash is channel 3, so if you forget this it won't work! Sorry about the complexity; Nikon didn't ask me for help here.
This is such a pain I use one of the D200's setting banks to store this.
On your SB-600:
Hold down ZOOM and "-" together to enter the CSM settings. That's why you see a gray "CSM" marking between those two buttons.
Press either the + or - buttons until you see an icon that looks like a wiggly Z-shaped arrow. This arrow refers to wireless communication between the flash and camera. When you see the wiggly arrow, press MODE to make it say ON.
Press ZOOM and "-" together to get out of the CSM mode. Even easier, just tap the power button to get back to normal operation. It won't turn off if you hit it while in the CSM settings.
Presuming you did this correctly you'll see "CHannel 3" and "GROUP A" displayed. If you see different channels or groups then press MODE to get one or the other to flash and then the + or - buttons to set them back to 3 and A. No, I have no idea why these are the settings you have to use instead of 1 and A; 3 and A are what you need to talk to the D70's built in flash. If you get smart and choose others then it won't work. The other channels and groups are for people much smarter than I who want to try to rig up a zillion flashes to work together and control them all separately and remotely. I prefer professional studio strobes if I'm using more than one strobe at a time.
The SB-600 doesn't go into standby in this mode, so you can run down your batteries if you forget and leave it this way. It just sits there blinking its little red LEDs visible from the front.
HOW TO SHOOT
Easy, just shoot! If you set everything to TTL as I suggest then the camera just does everything. You and I are free to concentrate on the more important parts of making a great image.
Everything is controlled from your camera. This is very convenient if you have the strobes someplace remote, like duct taped behind plants.
You can control the remote flash's output simply by varying the flash exposure compensation control on the camera. You can do that without taking your eye away from the finder! You do that by pressing the same button you used to pop up the flash and then moving the front control wheel. You'll see the amount of compensation on both the camera's top LCD as well as through the finder. Brilliant! You can add more or less flash fill without having to walk over to the remote flash.
You can set the mode (TTL, Manual or AA) from the camera.
You can set the manual power level from the camera as well.
Try to have the little black window on the bottom right of the flash (marked with that same wiggly arrow) pointing in the general direction of the camera. Thankfully it's not a big deal; you don't even need a line of sight so long as the flash is anywhere near the camera or subject.
The sensor is sensitive enough to pick up the flash from the camera even if it has to bounce around a corner or off the subject. This makes this current system so much better than the older ones. You can hide flashes anyplace and even if they can't see the camera they usually go off correctly. They beep to let you know what's going on, even if you cant' see them.
The i-TTL system is much better than the old systems because it just works. If you ever used the older systems you'd know that half the time you'd get no flash, or a full-power flash that also wasted the shot. This new system just works, and that's critical for use in the field where the remote flash is rested on a garbage can or held in your left hand while you hold the camera with your right.
I even can have the flash in a different room out of view of the camera and it goes off just fine.
It works fine even 50 feet away. I haven't tried it any further. Honestly I have no need for a flash that far away; I was just seeing if it worked.

Start by going into the "wrench" (spanner?) icon, then over to "CSM/Setup menu. Select the "full" option, then you should be able to access 1-17 in the Custom Setting Menu.