Older Pl1502 professional - relatively light usage but suddenly will not loosen my Chevy half ton lugs. Unit - doesn't spin up - very low torque. Other guns I use behave as they should. vanes appear okay, no air leakage, first screen in from supply at the gun is clear, what is next. It is a PL1502 - the model # is not apparent.

o replace the front passenger CV axle on a 2001 Chevy Venture, you'll need a set of basic tools. Here's a list of tools you might require for this job:

1. Jack and Jack Stands:
   • Used to lift the vehicle safely and provide support during the repair.
2. Wheel Chocks:
   • Ensures that the vehicle stays in place while lifting one end.
3. Lug Wrench:
   • To loosen and remove the lug nuts securing the wheel.
4. Socket Set and Wrenches:
   • Various sizes to remove bolts and nuts securing the CV axle.
5. Pry Bar or Crowbar:
   • Helps in removing components like the wheel hub.
6. Pliers:
   • Used to remove cotter pins and other small components.
7. Hammer:
   • May be needed to tap or gently persuade parts loose.
8. Torque Wrench:
   • Necessary for tightening nuts and bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
9. Pry Tool or Flathead Screwdriver:
   • Useful for prying apart certain components.
10. Hub Puller (Optional):
    • Sometimes required to remove the wheel hub from the CV axle.
11. CV Joint Clamp Pliers:
    • If your CV axle is secured with clamps, you'll need pliers designed for CV joint clamps.
12. Catch Pan:
    • To catch any transmission fluid that may leak during the process.
13. New CV Axle:
    • Ensure you have the correct replacement part for your specific vehicle.
14. Wheel Bearing Grease:
    • Used to lubricate the CV joint and ensure smooth operation.
15. Service Manual:
    • A repair manual specific to your vehicle can provide step-by-step instructions and torque specifications.

Always follow safety precautions and consult your vehicle's service manual for specific instructions related to your Chevy Venture. If you're not comfortable with the repair process, it's advisable to seek professional assistance.

Loosen all of the nuts on the tire while it's still flat on the ground before you Jack it up Do not leave any boats Tighten while is on the ground you can actually bring them all way to the end of the stud before you jack it up

80ftlbs for aluminum and magnesium rims, 85ftlbs for steel.

I'm guessing your you are referring to the drive shaft center support bearing. Remove u-joint 4 bolts at rear diff., then 2 bolts for center support. Slide driveshaft assembly out of trans. and lay on ground. On either side of the center support, make alignment marks on front and rear half of drive shafts with a crayon or tape (very important for re-assembly). Slide rear half off. Press out center support. Clean sleeve with emery cloth or 400 grit sand paper. Press on new center support, lube splines and reconnect drive shaft halves making sure alignment marks meet. Install assembly and torque bolts.

It is real simple. If it is an F-150 it is a half ton. If it was a 3/4 ton, it would be an F-250.

If the wheels have five lug nuts it's a half ton; 6 lug nuts is a 3/4 ton; eight lug nuts is a one ton.

It is possible both low beams are out and you didn't notice until the second one failed. Have you tried to reset the lights with the dashboard switch?

I have an 04 xj8. the lug nuts are a good bad example of half baked engineering. the lug nuts are fabricated from ugly steel with an 11/16 hex end. to beautify this, Jaguar overlays the nut end with a stainless steel 3/4 inch cap, crimped to the nut. On top of this, the nut is to be torqued to 90+ ft-lb! The only way to remove the lug nut without damage is with a SIX POINT socket and a breaker bar or an impact wrench. Using a 12 point socket will deform the cap, causing the wrench to spin on the cap and or the cap to spin on the nut itself. If that has happened, it is possible to recover using a 15 oz or thereabouts ball peen hammer and a deep 3/4 inch impact socket (the black ones). Line up the socket to the cap, doing a best guess to where the flats are and give the socket a light blow. Keep trying that until the socket seems to stick on, then hit it harder. Eventually you will find the right point and the socket will go on and reform the cap. Then a breaker bar can remove the cap/nut. New assemblies can be had for about $6 from "partsbin" or "autohausaz".

97 up will work.

I had this problem and had to block the teeth of the harmonic balancer with a 2-ton hydraulic jack handle (use an assistant to hold) while I torqued on the bolt with a 4-way lug wrench and a length of pipe. Took a minute, but finally we heard the "ping" of the seal breaking and were able to remove that BAB.