I checked the fuses. Fuses are okay.
my question is regarding a voltage regulator.It is reading 3v. I am not sure what the correct measure is.It has this number 6B4L or 1117L. how can I find schematics on this monitor or if you know about the correct measures on this regulator. Thank you.
3 Volts is not out of line for that part and that part is a voltage regulator. The issue that you are having is most likely related to bad capacitors on the power board. In some cases they show outward signs of failure like leakage, bulging or even blowing out. In other cases you can not see anything. The only way to be sure is to test them with an ESR meter.
Well the 1117l is a power rating of 1,2 volts 800ma drop out from 13.8 volts, so is there 13.8 volts power any were on the board, if the power drops to lower that 11.8 volts it will not turn on as is got a 1.2v drop by itself so would make it 10.6 volts not including other diodes on the board can become lower. so the regulating volts is 13.8 volts. power supply will be 15 to 16 volts or can be high depending on manufacturer spec's for country. board number can help determine the area of manufacture.
SOURCE: Princeton VL1919 repeatedly pops when turned on
If you feel confident take the monitor back cover off and replace the 3 bulged out capacitors
SOURCE: Measurements for Rice
Most of my experience with the rice cookers is that they require a japanese rice Cup which is different than the japanese regular cup. makes a whole lot of not sense but i found a replacement cup at one of the local Japanese Markets if you had to you could use regular measuring cup and use the 160ml for your measure. also the cup has a "Inomata" on it so maybe the web can help you
Eat lots of Rice
SOURCE: CMOS BATTERY DOES NOT GET CHARGE: DATE PROBLEM
CMOS batteries really don't charge. They just last anywhere between 3 years and 10 years or more. Voltage on a CMOS battery should be about 3 volts. If the computer is on power from the motherboard keeps the settings on the BIOS. When the computer is off and not powered the CMOS battery holds the settings in the BIOS.
SOURCE: Rice Measurements
You use one cup of water for each cup of uncooked rice. You end up with about 2 cups of cooked rice for every cup of uncooked rice. Different varieties, such as brown rice, take more water, up to 2 cups of water per cup of uncooked rice. If the resulting rice is too dry, you can add more water and restart the cooker.
I am not sure, but I believe that 16 cups refers to cooked rice, so you should not put more than 8 cups of uncooked rice in the cooker.
SOURCE: Where can I find the driver for a Princeton VL1919 monitor
Princeton Graphics VL2018W monitor does not require any drivers to function. If you have problems changing resolutions, color depth, or refresh rates, Please consult your video card manufacturer for a video driver or support. Your system will not identify the monitor if video drivers is not installed properly. I agree with this statement. You dont need drivers for monitors 99.9% of the time. Usually you video card is what is wrong if u cant change the resolution.
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
Please leave rating if it helps.
Basic LCD monitor troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
The capacitors were placed directly above and next to a large, flat metal heat sink. I say above with respect to the flow of air due to convection, and next to because the heat sink also wraps around, enclosing the group of capacitors on one side. The heat sink sits flush with the circuit board, turning the board into a front enclosing face. When reassembled, the metal housing sits a fraction of an inch above the sink, forming a back face. This assembly is at the top edge of the circuit board, so the housing then takes a 90° bend to form a top face. These capacitors seem to get almost no air flow... Together with the heat coming off the sink, it appears the engineers have created their own little capacitor oven.
Capacitors immediately adjacent to the affected components, but without blocked air flow looked completely normal. Looking at the traces on the circuit board and location of other components, the capacitors could have easily been moved out of the hot spot. This is either an act of gross negligence, or an intentionally created post-warranty failure point, designed to avoid market saturation. But that might be too pessimistic... "Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by incompetence."
Anyway, I scavenged a few capacitors off an old computer power supply to replace the damaged parts (one 470uF 25V two 1000uF 10V capacitor, both rated to 105°C). To avoid a repeat performance, I soldered some short extension wires to the replacement caps and moved them out to an open area of the board, being careful to give the high voltage components plenty of breathing room.
After reassembly, the monitor powered right up and came online. I guess the real question is how long it will stay this way.
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