If you have a low profile toilet, usually 1.6 gallon capacity, then the
toilet rim wash originally came with a more complicated fill valve that diverts
the initial flush of water into the rim through a plastic tube inserted in a rim
wash hole in the center front of the tank, (this happens a second before the
rest of the water flows into the bowl,to insure that the rim gets cleaned
properly while there is still a greater supply of water in that little tank for
gravity to do the job.) The rest of the water gets into the tank from where the
flapper raises up. My idea to fix my low profile toilet using the fluidmaster,
was that instead of hooking the tube from the fluidmaster onto the overflow
port, I just used a longer piece of tubing that would reach into the rim wash
hole. The hole originally had a 1/2" by about 6" white plastic tube stuck in it,
and then the original rim wash tube fit into that. For my use, I just removed
the white plastic tube and put the other end of the 1/4" tubing from the
fluidmaster directly into the rim wash hole as far as it would go.
What I have learned with my DIY toilet repair, is that in a regular size
commode the rim wash is fed through the overflow tube, but in a low profile the
rim wash is ONLY fed through that center hole and tube. And you don't need a
tube in the overflow, because the rim wash works as the overflow.
I also learned that although the tank measures 9"
from tank floor to top, and much of the packaging on the universal fill valves
gives a measurement of from 9 to 13 or 14 inches. However, what really matters
is not whether the unit will fit inside the tank and the lid still close, but
where the top of the overflow port is in relation to the mechanism on the fill
valve, so the new fill valve will shut off completely. I tried the Korky brand
on mine and lowered it as far as it would go, and it was just 1/32" too high and
that's all it takes for the thing to keep trying to refill the toilet. (If you
can't hear well, but you see bubbles around the flapper or near and at the
bottom of the valve long after the flush has completed, then you have a leak
somewhere, likely the flapper if it is a leak, or the fill valve is not shutting
off because it can't be adjusted down low enough in relation to the overflow
port. The fluidmaster is not as pretty but it does work for my toilet. A
couple of times a year I have to reach in and adjust the sliding float wire, and
that is certainly better than the real toilet replacement parts at over
$200.00. For a few pieces of white plastic? No way!
Probably needs a "doughnut" tank washer under tank..or try tightening the tank bolt..fluid master comes with a little rubber hose that goes to overflow tube
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