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Posted on Aug 03, 2017
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My whirlpool washer agitates but will not pump out the water. I thought the timer switch assembly was bad so I replaced it. Still no water pump. I can not find the Model Number tag on the washer anywhere. It's not on the back, under the lid or on the right side at the bottom like the literature says. What would make the water pump not pump but let it still agitate with a brand new timer assembly?

1 Answer

kj henriksen

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  • Expert 194 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 03, 2017
kj henriksen
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Drain Pump Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 27, 2008

SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL MODEL LXR9445JQ0 WASHER. UPPER

You need to replace the agitator dogs. Yes...there is such a thing. These are four small plastic pieces under the agitator cap that grip the upper agitator, preventing it from back spinning under a load. Searspartdirect.com has an excellent illustration of how your agitator is assembled. Just type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The dogs are listed as item 10 (part #80040). For a bit more you can order the entire upper cam replacment kit (which includes the dogs) as item 9 (285811). For instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r823955-replacing_agitator_dogs

This is an expensive and very simple repair. If you require addtional assistance, let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Ron Coons

  • 2651 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 13, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool LSB6300PW2 Won't Agitate or Spin

if you lift andclose the lid do you hear "clicking" noise??? i bet not. simple repair, lift the lid and with a hollow shafted screwdriver(1/4in nutdriver or similliar hollow shaft implement)you fell with your hand the bottom half of the left side lid hinge. as you open and close the lid you can fell the opposing end of hinge under the top no need to dissasemble you can fell it right there. when you find it simply slip the hollow ended shaft over the hinge and apply pressure towardds the rear of unit.While doing this the top will want to close( your pushing against the hinge).. after appling slight pressure youll bend it slightly, enough to activet the lid switch mounted to the rear of the main lid assy.

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: washer wont agitate. fills, then a faint hum. it

If it stops filling when it is full, doubt if water level switch. Take clear hose off of side of tub and blow into it, if you hear a clicking noise, it is not the water switch. The capacitor can be checked by placing a test cord on both terminals and applying 110 volts for a second to it. Then using screwdriver, short across the two terminals, if it sparks, it is okay. (be careful to hold the screwdriver handle, it packs a pretty good punch). If that those check out, remove the motor and the rubber coupling. Spin the coupling on the transmission with a large socket both ways. One way should make it spin and the other should make it agitate. If it does not agitate doing this, it is the transmission. If it checks out, then probably in the timer. Good luck

Anthony Abbott

  • 136 Answers
  • Posted on May 29, 2009

SOURCE: does not spin or empty

it might be jammed or there might be dirt or some sort of a clog. I would suggest you clean it out.

chris weier

  • 82 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 14, 2009

SOURCE: Washing Machine wont spin/agitate

The most common problem is the lid switch. with a screw driver in hand open the lid and press down on the lid switch. sometimes the mounting screws will crack the switch housing and the striker can't move the actuator far enough. I am interested in the clicking noise, as this could indicate a pump issue or a sock seizing up the tub.

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1answer

Timer was ruined from detergent dripping onto it. Replaced twice already. 1st would go thru cycle but not spin fast enough to dry clothes. 2nd would wash but not drain or spin.

those signs are not neccessarily ur timer, u may have replaced it for nothing. both spin and drain problems are likely located elsewhere?

No agitation or spin? try these:

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS.


Washer will not drain:

Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.

Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ

The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.

If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity
0helpful
1answer

Washer will not drain or spin.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid

Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section

on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

Also see the following for a more detailed description of how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b

0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using

an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the

washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?

newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission
"Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into

spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes

Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on

ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and

gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator

uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two

clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8

screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic

cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't

go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

0helpful
1answer

Just replaced timer and bypassed safety lid switch to test on our series 70 kenmore washer ( model # 110 227 22 101, series CL 432 4478 ) and it still will not drain or spin. It will fill with water...

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22722101

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem initially points the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Since you've already replaced both, the problem points to the "Neutral Drain Assembly" in the transmission,

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Following is the Whirlpool parts PDF for their commercial version washers although the consumer models use the same transmission parts.

With ours,we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
0helpful
1answer

My kenmore 70 series washing machine is not draining! I asked some people what they thought it was, and they told me it was probably the timer, so i got a new one for like $140 and it is still stopping...

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque

from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2

inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
0helpful
1answer

Have Kenmore top load washer that will agitate but will not spin...timer is good...where next?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

Following is a parts list for Whirlpool commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

The Sears site for your washer may have a section on the gearcase. Check in that section for a Neutral Drain repair kit.

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
0helpful
1answer

Whirlpool top loading washing machine not finishing cycle

SOUNDS LIKE A PUMP HAS GONE BAD. REPLACE IT. IT WOULDN'T COST TOO MUCH.
1helpful
1answer

The tub on my kenmore model no.44052401 front loader won't turn

Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be treated with respect.
Please pick a topic of your  problem by clicking ...hope you find this helpful :-)
 
  1. Automatic dispenser information
  2. How a washer works, good to read this first: Click here
  3. Has Kenmore or Whirlpool ever had a off-balance switch.....
  4. Help for storing an appliance
  5. How does the agitator come off my washer ??
  6. How to prevent socks from getting into your pump
  7. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore belt washers - common problems Like timers, pumping problems, leaking, spinning, agitating and spinning/agitating at the same time.
  8. Inglis, Whirlpool & Kenmore belt drive washers How to take washer apart and how the washer works.
  9. Inglis, Whirlpool & Kenmore style washers which style do I have ?
  10. Inglis, Whirlpool & Kenmore - how to replace the belt
  11. Inglis, Whirlpool & Kenmore - how to tighten the belt
  12. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore - how to replace a pump
  13. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore - how to replace or check the wig/wag solenoid assembly from American appliance
  14. Inglis, Whirlpool & Kenmore - How to remove inner basket
  15. Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore belt drive washer - parts breakdowns
  16. Inglis portable washer belt change help From our friend Lee )
  17. Important disclaimer
  18. Missing cycles or timer stalls in middle of cycle
  19. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint.
  20. My washer has a funky odor
  21. Slow water fills
  22. Washer Basics: Filling with water problems
  23. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like this, replace the belt(s).
  24. Washer sample wiring diagrams
  25. Whirlpool newer style apt size newer washer
 
1helpful
1answer

Not sure if manifold is leaking

Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
 
  1. Agitation problems and agitator dog repair aid info
  2. Automatic dispenser information
  3. Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct drive style of washers
  4. Diagnostic Direct Drive washer chart from American appliance
  5. How a washer works, good to read this first
  6. Help for storing an appliance
  7. How does the agitator come off my washer ??
  8. How to prevent socks from getting into your pump
  9. Ohm test a common direct drive motor
  10. How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer
  11. Basic information: Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers
  12. Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to take apart - Cabinet off, cabinet on, checking or replacing a lid switch, replace the pump, replace motor coupling or motor.
  13. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns
  14. Important disclaimer
  15. My direct drive washer will fill ok, agitates ok but when it comes to the spin and drain cycle the washer comes to a screeching halt...no spin, no draining and the timer stops, what's up?
  16. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint.
  17. My washer has a funky odor
  18. Noises
  19. Ohm meter testing a motor capacitor
  20. Slow water fills
  21. The wash tubs on my direct drive washer are leaning to the right...why?
  22. Timer stalls or missing cycles
  23. Timer will not advance
  24. Tips on changing a common washer fill valve
  25. To learn more about washing machines, click here
  26. Washer Basics: Filling with water
  27. Washer leaks water
  28. Washer moves around to much
  29. Washer will not spin
  30. Washer sample wiring diagrams
  31. Washer spins and agitates at the same time
  32. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like these, replace the belt(s).
  33. Washer runs but wont agitate or spin
  34. Washer won't run, agitate or spin
  35. What is that black power powder or filings under my washer??


0helpful
1answer

Whirlpool LSR8233JQO

The pump is coupled to a motor that runs it. The pump is ok if it is not leaking. You need to check the signal to the motor to turn on. It all comes from the timer switch unit. The coupling probably should be relpaced if the pump is really bad. Sounds like the drive motor for the tub, not the pump, or the switch unit.
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