A voltmeter should be connected in a series with a component?

Here is a possible wiring diagram for the voltmeter on a 1996 Peterbilt 379 with a C15 engine:

1. The voltmeter gets power from the battery through a 5A fuse (F2) and a 10A circuit breaker (CB7).
2. The voltmeter is grounded through a ground wire (GND) connected to the chassis.
3. The voltmeter receives the signal from the alternator through a wire (ALT) connected to the alternator "sense" terminal.
4. The voltmeter also receives a signal from the ignition switch through a wire (IGN) connected to the ignition switch "ACC" terminal.

Here is a possible wiring diagram based on this description:
Battery positive (+) ---[F2]---[CB7]--- Voltmeter (+) ' ' Battery ground (-) -------------[GND]--- Voltmeter (-) ' ' Alternator "sense" terminal ---[ALT]--- Voltmeter signal input ' ' Ignition switch "ACC" terminal ---[IGN]--- Voltmeter signal input
Note: This is just a possible wiring diagram and may not reflect the exact wiring configuration in your specific vehicle. It is always recommended to consult the wiring diagram provided in the vehicle's service manual or consult a qualified mechanic or electrician for assistance.

If you have four loads connected in series and after the first load you have 0 volts, it is not possible to have 110 volts at the fourth load. If you have four switches in series, and have the problem you are describing it means that your fourth switch is open, and therefore will not pass power to the actual load.

Note- voltmeters measure the difference in voltage between the two leads, so with the power on, if your meter reads 0, the switch is closed, with the leads on either side of the switch, and 110 means the switch is open. On the other hand if you touched one probe to ground, and checked voltage on each side of the switch, you would have 110 up to the switch that is open.

Hope this helps

The voltmeter will display 3V and the ammeter will show a small amount of current this is the current being used to swing the needle or in a digital meter the current used to get a sample.

Hello gradycusick,

I'm assuming that your cap did not come with a "charging resistor" and instructions, or you bought it from someone used.

The recommended way to charge a capacitor is through a 500-1K ohm resistor, at least 5 watts. Connect a DC voltmeter to the cap leads, connect the positive side through the resistor and to battery positive, and connect the negative side to battery negative (or grounded to the vehicle frame). Do not hold the resistor. It will get HOT. When the voltmeter reads 12V, the capacitor is charged.

If you do not have the resistor or a voltmemter, you can simply use a 12V automotive bulb. Just connect the bulb in series with the battery positive and the capacitor and connect the negative side of the cap to battery negative. When the light goes out, the cap is charged.

You can see an example of both methods here.

Hope this helps.

when you connect a voltmeter in series, it will smoke. read "zero"
you need a ampmeter to connect in series.

Think of electricity as water and an ammeter as measuring the volume of water and a voltermeter as measuring the pressure

When connected in parallel it reads the voltage drop across said component.
When connected in series the current flows thru the meter allowing the measurement of the current flowing thru circuit.
Hope that helps.

to check voltage or Resistance that's the way it has to ne.
it is only used in series when checking amperage.
usually not over any circuit over 10 amps; depending on the
manufacturers ratings of your meter.
Paul

GENERATOR OUTPUT LINE VOLTAGE DROP TEST

This test determines the condition of the wiring from the generator "B" terminal to the battery (+) terminal (including the fusible link). 1. Be sure to check the following before testing: a. Generator installation and wiring connections b. Generator drive belt tension c. Fusible link d. Abnormal noises from the generator while the engine is running. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Disconnect the generator output wire from the generator "B" terminal. Connect a DC test ammeter with a range of 0-100A in series between the "B" terminal and the disconnected output wire. (Connect the (+) lead of the ammeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the ammeter to the disconnected output wire.) An inductive-type ammeter which enables measurements to be taken without disconnecting the generator output wire is recommended. Using this equipment will lessen the possibility of a voltage drop caused by a loose "B" terminal connection. 5. Connect a digital-type voltmeter between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal. (Connect the (+) lead of the voltmeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the voltmeter to the battery (+) cable.) 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Connect a tachometer or the scan tool. 8. Start the engine. 9. With the engine running at approx. 2500 rpm, turn the headlights and other lights on and off to adjust the generator load on the ammeter slightly above 30A. Limit: max. 0.3V When the generator output is high and the value displayed on the ammeter does not decrease to 30A, set the value to 40A. Read the value displayed on the voltmeter. In this case the limit becomes max. 0.4V. 10. If the value displayed on the voltmeter is still above the limit, a fault in the generator output wire may exist. Check the wiring between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal (including fusible link). If a terminal is not sufficiently tight or if the harness has become discolored due to overheating, repair, then test again. 11. After the test, run the engine at idle. 12. Turn off all lights and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 13. Disconnect the tachometer or the scan tool. 14. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 15. Disconnect the ammeter and voltmeter. 16. Connect the generator output wire to the generator "B" terminal. 17. Connect the negative battery cable.

The only advice I can give is to check for a fusible link close to where the battery cables connect to the PCB. Look for a component with an F prefix eg f1001 or f001. I never desolder the fuse if it's open circuit, I just break a glass type fuse and solder the wire across the surface mount component. Just make sure the fuse wire is the same value as the original.