SOURCE: My Titan N180 tankless water heater keeps tripping
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SOURCE: Titan-SCR2 N-120, water heater, need schematics
Niagra Industries who builds the N-120 charges a flat rate $60 to repair the unit and ship it back to you no matter what happens to it. They will not supply a diagram. One common problem is a supply wire inside burning into two pieces. I have two that are bad. One lasted 3 years and the oher didn't work out of the box but I had it as a backup and didn't try it til the warranty had expired.
SOURCE: Titan Tankless stopped working this morning.
I have the Titan SCR2 N-120. You may have a different model. On mine if you are looking at it just a inch below & 1 inch to the left of dead center will be a round black sticker(it has some white lines at&t's logo). there's a pin hole in the middle of the sticker that you can poke to reset. Or turn the breaker off then take the 2 screws out of the top of the unit. It's just a thin metal cover that you can pull back & look inside. You'll see a red circular button thats the reset button. It's right behind where the hole I was talking about & what gets pushed in. you'll also be able to see if anything burned out & can get replacement parts at titanheater.com . One of my heater elements had burn/ melted & I've ordered a replacement. It was $17 + $11 s&h but still cheaper than $200 new unit from e b a y. Best of Luck
SOURCE: I have a Titan N-120
I have not worked on this model of heater. I have several trouble shooting tips for you to try. This is the approach I would use if this were my heater. But first, you say it lights up for hot water then you ask about elements. Is this electric or is this gas fired?
If it is gas fired, it is lighting (a burn sequence) and not heating, I would suspect a flame sensor problem. The fire comes on but the sensor cannot 'see' it so the safety turns the gas valve off. If it is gas fired, there probably is a electronic ligniter ... I would take a look at that to make sure it is lighting. Normally, this is a strip of metal that heats up red hot or a sparking device. Look for the red light inside near the burner or listen for the spark.
If it is electric, I would turn the power off and with a volt/ohm meter, I would measure the resistance on the elements. Set your meter to oHm for this reading. You should read "short" if the elements are good. (Short is the same reading you will get if you cross the probes (direct contact one to the other)) If there are two elements, check both. This is step one in proving the elements. If they both check good, turn the power back on and check the voltage (set meter on 250 VAC or higher) Place the probes on the screws that hold the wires to the elements. Now then, if you get a reading (Is this 110 VAC or 220 VAC - read the volts on the meter) Your thermostat is fine. To prove this, turn the thermostat off and the voltage will drop to zero. If there are volts and still no heat, I would suspect the elements are indeed faulty and should be replaced.
I hope this answers your question. Thanks for your visit to FixYa.com today.
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