The kettle leaks at where teh handle attaches at the bottom

They are pretty much a disposable item when they fail. You could try repairing with epoxy putty. Some bases can be screwed a bit tighter.

https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941

Manual

RUSSELL HOBBS 18941

and regarding kettle leaks

https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941+leak+at+base

..

Wow....good thing the kids were not around......

Unfortunately I cannot say this has happened to me!

take it back for a warranty replacement
cannot be fixed so replace it or junk it

Silicone might not withstand heat. A better solution might be unscrewing handle from pot, replace waterproof washers and reinstall. That should stop the leak.

If you're not just simply missing the opening a little as you're pouring then I'd assume it's cheaper to replace than to repair, sorry.

If it's leaking from the side-glass you might get by with filling your kettle just under the lower end of the side-glass.

A common cause is the calcium, or some other minerals in the water eventually ate through the bottom of the tank. You will need a new tank, or better... A new kettle.

Jerry G.

It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
I reassembled the kettle and tried it out and it now works fine! Problem fixed.
To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
You'll notice that once you've wired together the two separated pieces, pressing the switch on the top pulls up on the flat plastic piece which pulls the rocker plate which closes the circuit in the base.

This is a known issue with Krups kettles. If you are a handy person then you can remove the base and use a high temp gasket maker (auto shops have it) to add to existing silicone seal which goes bad after a couple of years.

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod..