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Nick, Sounds like the wires are pushed in to the back on your switch(quick connect system), there is small tab in the hole located next to the wire hole, use a small enough screw driver to push the internal tab and hold in/down until you have wire pulled from connection.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, the 2nd video shows the removal closer to the end. Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." How to Replace Light Switch with Dimmer
First of all, in general, dimmers (even at their highest setting) cause the lights to dim even a little bit. If you are doing a 1-for-1 comparison, you may notice a difference - but honestly, it shouldn't be THAT dramatic that you're able to notice it.
My first suggestion is to double-check the model number. There's a version of Diva with a "G" in the model number (DV-603PG-) which was designed with a lower-high-end light level than normal (designed to guarantee extra energy-savings).
If the model number checks out, my next suggestion is to upgrade to a spec-grade product (like an NT-600-WH). The commercia/specification grade products have a higher high-end than the residential grade products. It still will dim the lights a little bit, but will be better.
After that, I suggest calling tech support at 1-800-523-9466 for more suggestions. Its a free call and they're available 24/7.
Your best solution is to call the company's tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. Depending upon the details they may be willing to replace it for you.
I would call their tech support center for clarification, because what you descirbe doesn't immediately make sense. The only light that a Diva has should be a yellow glow through the back of the plastic. If you're talking about a green light, then maybe you mean a Maestro, but there's no yellow light on a Maestro... it's making me think you may have a different manufacturer.
Regardless, call tech support to figure it out. They're at 1-800-523-9466 and available 24/7.
Sometimes a hellacious lamp blow-out or lighting strike can knock out the dimming element in the device. Call their tech support line at 1-800-523-9466. You may want to suggest that they upgrade you to a 1000-Watt dimmer so that the issue doesn't happen again.
Simply, no...but it's almost never simple is it?
In household wiring (AC) there is really no positive and negative, they are hot and neutral and ground.
Wire black to black, yes. But the green one is the ground and if you wire this one wrong you've got much trouble.
In the box where the dimmer goes there should be two of each wire, white, black and bare.
Join the two whites together and tuck them into the box.
The bare wires and the green screw all go together. Cut yourself a length of spare bare (ground) wire, marrette one end of this together with the other two bare wires, turn it round the ground screw in the back of the box and tighten it down, then join the other end to the green screw of the dimmer. This is a "pigtail" and it makes things easier in many situations. Tuck this into the box.
Last, join black to black.
Black from dimmer to black Constant Power In Wall
White from dimmer to Neutral (Whites) in wall
Yellow from dimmer to wire out to light (usually black)
Green from dimmer to BARE GROUND WIRE
When you take the existing switch out of the wall, the existing switch will have one black screw and two gold screws. The wire that is connected to the black screw of the existing switch (probably on of the black wires from the box) connects to the black wire on the new dimmer. The other two wires (one black and one red from the box) that are connected to the two gold screws on the existing switch will connect to the two red wires on the new dimmer. Basically, wire from black screw goes to new black wire and wires from gold screws go to new red wires.
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