Good morning! first, excuse my poor english. My apparatus Buck In Sink does a noise "hummm" but do not make any work. The motor do not turn. Sunddenly, after a day or so, everything is fine. Could it be an electrical problem? I did turned the plate inside by hand and cleaned the chamber the best I could but I did not touched any electrical component. However, the BIS returned to work... Can you help me on this if it is not to muddled. Thank you in advance

Motor jammed.
Find a reset switch on the bottom.

S?lo s? una sola lengua. Puedo usar traductor Google para ayudar.
http://translate.google.com/

CFL light bulb has electronic ballast.
Las bombillas CFL tienen balasto electr?nico
46-1022 will not work for CFL, or motors.
46-1022 no funciona para CFL, o motores.
http://respectmyplanet.org/helpthecause/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/cfl2.jpg

Older fluorescent light fixtures have rapid start ballast.
Antiguo luces flourscent han lastre inicio r?pido
http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=220&uid=1793142337
Nuevas luces flourscent han lastre inicio r?pido

Electronic ballast makes less noise, use less energy, cause less electrical interference, and the ballast lasts longer.
Balasto electr?nico hace menos ruido, consumen menos energ?a, menos causar interferencia el?ctrica, y el lastre de tiempo m?s prolongado.
Take cover off fluorescent light and read what is printed on ballast.
A cubierto de la luz fluorescente y leer lo que est? impreso en lastre.

Here is a very good article relating to your problem http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_vista-desktop/iastoricon-error-on-startup/14045dcc-eb3b-46a0-a3bc-d01c3181e026

Your 'autoconfiguration' settings have been changed.
Do this......go to the start menu and type 'services' in the search bar and press enter.....when the window pops up showing the services, make sure that the left column is focused on 'services'
now, scroll all the way down on the middle column and find the services labeled; 'WLAN Autoconfig' and 'Wired AutoConfig'
These should be set to automatic.
to do this, simply double click the service, and select 'automatic' in the 'startup type' drop menu.
you may have to click start on the left upper portion of that window, but next time you start your system it should automatically search and connect with a valid ip
GOOD LUCK AND PLS RATE THIS POST!!!!!!

Excuse me my English knowledge,I am foreign country.my Canon this was the problem with my printer.the solution:put an original cartridge into him then what it'll be fun.presumably the mouthpiece short-circuit your apparatus,because you refilled it and this causes the problem.

Here is the  HP download website for your model printer.

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Home.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=410622&submit.y=5&submit.x=5〈=en&cc=us

Replace IC500 on power circuit board.
The board at the bottom with heat sink.
STK470-090 voltage regulator Sanyo original.

Use This Link

http://www.driverstock.com/HP-LaserJet-1320-driver-download/10-26-2969-42659/index.html

Hi friends. (Excuse my poor English). Well, i bought a SCD364 Samsung CamCoder that is physically and mechanically exactly as scd363. My scd364 also have the same problem. Because the warranty has expired, i discovered a solution. The problem ocurs due to a missing calibrati?n at tape motion mechanism then when the cam goes heat, the motor grazes with another part of the mechanism that this located very near (wax)causing a metallic noise, eating the battery and, finally the blinking "D" eject signal. I amazing when discovered that the solution is to open the tape compartment and place the opened camera infront of the air conditioning machine by 2 minutes in order to cool it. Once cold, the camera is ready to play or record again without noise and blinking "D".

Hi friends. (Excuse my poor English). Well, i bought a SCD364 Samsung CamCoder that is physically and mechanically exactly as scd363. My scd364 also have the same problem. Because the warranty has expired, i discovered a solution. The problem ocurs due to a missing calibrati?n at tape motion mechanism then when the cam goes heat, the motor grazes with another part of the mechanism that this located very near (wax)causing a metallic noise, eating the battery and, finally the blinking "D" eject signal. I amazing when discovered that the solution is to open the tape compartment and place the opened camera infront of the air conditioning machine by 2 minutes in order to cool it. Once cold, the camera is ready to play or record again without noise and blinking "D".