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This machine is energy compliant to an extreme. The installation says to have the water heater set to 120 and when you put the machine on HOT it will be cooler than that because it mixes the hot with some cold. WARM is a little more cold and COOL is mostly cold and some warm, COLD is just plain cold.
If you switched the feed hoses over and the problem reversed itself, cold has gone from fast to slow useing the hot water pipe and hot from slow to fast useing the cold water pipe then this would indicate a fault in the water supply from the hot pipe. What sort of pressure is coming from the hot pipe when not connected to the machine but filling in to a bucket? Are there any shut off valves before the pipe that supplies the hot water? Are they fully turned on? Any kinks in the feed pipe for the hot water? Has the hot water feed pipe collapsed internally? Change the pipe to check this and not just at the machine side.
Under the hood on top of the firewall you will see two hoses,check both of these are hot(the cooler one is the matrix return pipe)if return pipe is cold then undo the clip and vent off any trapped air.this must be done when the engine is HOT,so take care.........
Check power to relay. If yes, check compressor is working. If yes, keep your hand on discharge pipe. If it's not warm, cooler is under gas leak. Rectify leak and recharge gas.Thanks.
I would start by checking the hoses at the heater core. One should be hot the other cooler but still pretty warm. If one is hot and 1 is a lot cooler you probably have a plugged heater core. You can also check to see if you hear the blend door slamming and check air temp change when you switch from full cold to full hot. If there isn't a clunk at full hot or cold the door might be stuck.
NORMALY THE HOT FLOW ENTERS THE TOP HOSE AND COOLER WATER LEAVE THE BOTTOM HOSE BACK TO THE BLOCK, SO IF THE TOP HOSE GETS WARM THEN THE RAD IS BLOCKED , IF NIETHER GETS WARM/HOT THEN THERMOSTAT NOT WORKING, OR YOU HAVE BLOCKAGE ELSE WHERE, SO REMOVE BOTH HOSES FLUSH RAD WITH HOSE PIPE, (WHEN ENGINE IS COLD) SEE IF WATER FLOWS OUT AT SAME SPEED AS U R FILLING IT, IF NOT ITS BLOCKED, 2ND REMOVE THERMOSTAT AND FLUSH ENGINE OUT, U CAN BUY RAD FLUSH/CLEANER AND TRY THAT,
There is too much pressure on the cold feed, reduce the pressure on the cold by partly closing off the tap on the cold.
Or ensure the hot feed is fully open and not blocked, check if there are filters inline - remove the feed pipes at the washer end and look into the inlet valves - clear if blocked.
The inlet valve is common to hot and cold water with only a small pipe to fill the machine, the cold water is being forced back up the hot water pipe due to the pressure you can feel the pipe cool down after running hot then go to warm, if hot water is flowing the pipe will stay hot, if not then cold is going up the hot pipe.
The water that is coming from the hot water pipes is likely not hot because it cooled down while sitting in the pipes. We had similar issues with hot water not being ready when our appliance needed it. We heard about Redytemp from our plumber. We have yet to have anymore problems with having hot water when needed.
Your question is: Why would the cold line water be luke warm?
In 30 years I've seen this maybe 10 times. It is relatively rare. But each time it was a cross connection between the hot and cold water lines. It could be this fixture is close to the hot water heater or the cross cnnection is in a faucet or it is in the way the water lines are piped. Anyway I would have to closely inspect the system while running the water in the fixtures in different combinations. Once the cross is located the easiest fix at this point is installing a check valve at the right point. You might consider utilizing thr Repair Directory to find a repairman. Make sure he has solved this type of problem before.
Feel free to contact me again! Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off Thank you, Harvey your Master Plumber
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