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check power from battery to solenoid and the main power wire going to the fuse block... a good test light will help... oh, i suggest you unhook those new lights until you get the other issue resolved...
# 1 you should never dry out a radio with a heat gun.#2 the reverse polarity diode is what is blowing out. take that wire you fixed and toss it.go to Rad Shak or a truck stop and buy a power cord with a lighter plug attached. .Then have someone you can trust replace d23. hook up your coax then your cord turn it on and you are good to go.
Look to see if the charge light is on when you connect the power. If not, try moving the power jack around slowly in a circle. If you get power with the cord/connector at certain angles, then the motherboard will need to be removed in most cases and the power connector on the motherboard will need to be resoldered to the board, and then the unit will have to be reassembled.
If moving the connector doesn't ever put the charge light on, then there is either a picofuse blown or more likely some SMT MOSFETS are blown. If you have the skills, identify and replace the MOSFETS and you should be ok. If a picofuse is blown, replace it with the same type and rating fuse. DO NOT JUMPER the fuse...sometimes they just go, but most often they go for a reason. If the new fuse blows, start looking to the MOSFETs and electrolytic capacitors in the DC/DC converter section.
The main power fuse inside the TV may have blown. The rear cover must be removed to check it. Unplugging the power cord from the wall outlet is the first safety item. Finding all the right screws to remove the cover (without taking out some you shouldn't) is sometimes tricky. When you remove the cover the power cord will still be attached inside, so remove the cover carefully. There is a danger of touching residual high voltage near the picture tube. Carefully look for a fuse near where the power cord attaches to the circuit boards. Often the fuse will be obviously burned open (the small conductor inside the clear glass is melted or the glass is blackened). Replace only with a fuse of the same type and amp rating. Putting a higher amp rating fuse or slower acting fuse can have costly and possibly dangerous consequences. Be sure to plug the power cord in when you do your test with the new fuse. If you haven't done anything close to this before, you may want to refer this job to an expert.
If your power cord starts to melt before the fuse blows it means you
have *way* too thin power cables. Then the fuse probably blew because
of a short to ground due to the melted insulation. This is one of the things that
can start car fires.
I use cables of similar thickness as jumper cables to my slightly
bigger amp, maybe a little overkill but better safe than sorry.
You will need to remove the back of the TV. Don't worry, it's not that bad.
There are 4 screws across the top, one on each side, one right next to
where the power cord goes into the back of the case, and the two more
by all of the video connections **These are the most important to
remove because they attach the main board to the back of the case.
Once you have remove the screws then the entire back of the set will
slide off. If you look where the power cord attaches to the board you
will see a small fuse. This is a 6.3 Amp 125 volt fuse. You can replace
it with a 6.3 Amp 250 volt fuse from your local Radio Shack. A four
pack costs between $3 and $5.
Make sure that you check that it works before putting it all back
together. Check for any loose connection cables while you're back
there. I found a few when I did this.
Replace fuse with slo blow from Ace Hardware. Plugged unit in, clock worked. Turned unit on and immediately blew new fuse. Will fix it with a new unit.
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