I have a lp 0043580 6.2 gen. switchdip switch to remote not auto.put toggle switch 0n wires 173 and 184 gen starts but will not cut off on auto no utility power present. should gen. shut down when cotact broke on 173 and 184 no utility power present

Buy an on/off toggle switch . Locate the pedal switch and find the feed or power wire to it. Cut that wire and connect it to the toggle switch. Secure the toggle switch in a convenient place.

get a test light and do some tests for power and ground. some of these gens have a start switch on the gen. doing the remote start feature test will take two people to do, one to play with the switch and you outside at the gen probing. this is a good test light cheap I recommend.
you also might want to pull the remote and inspect the wires

6 12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft Lead

1996 1999 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF JETTA REPAIR MANUAL

I hope your problem will be solved :))

Disconnect generator remote start wires in the ATS. Put an ohm meter across the remote start terminals in the ATS and kill utility power, you should here a click in the ATS and the ohm meter should indicate close to zero ohms. If it does then your ATS is fine and the problem is gen control board or wiring between the two. If it does not show that value, then the start relay in the ATS is suspect.

are you refering to an auto start? if you want to install a kill switch all you have to do is go to your stearing collum, of course your going to take the pannles off, find the big red wire thats main ignition to the switch cut and splice a toggle or a axilary key switch in line that will allw you to kill power to the ignition sutting down the rig hope it was helpfull but still need more info on what your asking

You have a short in the remote start wiring, incorrect wiring terminations, or a defective control sensing in the transfer switch

The harness is a dealer part or a scrapyard part. The harness itself for jsut the fuel pump as it is set up by GM- the relay coil has one side hot +12 volts all the time, even when off. The ground side of the coil goes to the 3 bladed oil pressure switch which completes the ground circuit when there is oil pressure This is the tan wire.
There is a wire that comes from the ECU to prime the pump and keep it operating while initially starting. This is usually a white wire.

+12 volts usually is applied at all times at cavity 87 in the relay connector and the wire to the fuel pump is in 87A.

The harness from the dealership will list price at about 2000.00 US, and it will be the entire harness that includes that portion for the fuel pump.

If your pump is not energizing, or not staying energized, the oil pressure switch is likely at fault. By the same token it stays energized all the time unless relay is disconnected.

If you are going to add a switch, the easiest thing to do is gut out an old fuel pump relay and solder to the contact parts and clip the relay coil. This does bypass all auto shutoff. The wire will see some fair current so use 12 gauge or 10 gauge.and keep run as short as possible.

make sure you plugged in the toggel switch AND hooked the black/white wire to ground....and obviously that the toggle switch is in ON posisiton

If you mean it just wont crank over,what I did on my Toyota(just another vehicle,but same situation),I clipped a wire onto the main starter wire to the solonoid and put the other end on a toggle switch on the dash and a hot wire from battery to the other side of toggle switsh(spring loaded from auto parts store),and any time my Truck wont crank over,I leave the switch on and pull the toggle switch over and it starts right up.Can be done with ANY vehicle.

this most likely was a remote ON/OFF for the amplifiers, sometimes it is easier to do than locating the remote wire on the dash unit.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9