My electric double oven takes a long time to heat up and does not maintain it's desired heat. It's worse when I select the bake option but also occurs when convection is used. I bought a thermometer to put into the oven and test the temperature and it reads about 30-50 degrees lower than what I programmed. I've had the oven for about 3 1/2 years and it's been great until now. I've noticed that things take longer to cook!

SOURCE: Double oven / convection not working

It is likely that the convection element is burned out and needs to be replaced. If all other functions are working then this is the place to start. Teh back panel inside of the oven can be removed by removing the 4 visible philips screws on it. The element should look smooth and round, if not then it needs to be replaced. Be sure to turn power off to the oven before replacing it. Remove the screws that fasten the element to the back wall and gently pull the element away from the wall an inch or so. the wires will be exposed and can be unclipped from the element do not let them fall inside of the back of the oven or you will have to remove the oven from the wall to get at the back panel. Install the new element in the reverse procedure. If the element looks good then it will have to be tested with a multimeter to verify that it is still good before proceeding to check the selector switch for burn marks.

SOURCE: GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2

Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

Otherwise you'd look like this...


Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

SOURCE: f9 error code while using the convection baking function

This is a lock switch error code. Check wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch. If the switch cannot be re adjusted, it must be replaced.

SOURCE: I have a Bosch HBN 455 double oven with the

Hi,

Do you see any Error Message on the Display?

If not, then it should not be a Concern. More often this could be Thermal Fuse on the Back of the Unit ( On Most Models ) will stop the Broil and Bake from Turning ON. You would just start a bake cycle and the temperature will sit at 100 and something degrees and never raise.appliance.

Let me know, once you check the same.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

SOURCE: I have a KitchenAid double oven with convection on

it will either be the sensor or the board,hopefully it's not the board,the part number for the sensor is 4455636 and subs to w10131825,the sensor is around 100 bucks,there should be a tech sheet on the machine most likely behind the touch pad on the top,it will tell you how to check the sensor with a meter,just unplug the sensor and read it out i think it's around 1100 ohms but check that on the tech sheet,if it's not the sensor most likely it will be the board part number 4453661 and that's around 300 buckseverything runs through this computer board but the sensor tells it how hot it is in the oven hopefully you have a bad sensor.let me know what you find,you'll most likely have to pull the oven to repair it but maybe just enough to get the top open,good luck