Whirlpool Electric Dryer stop working

Same problem with my Whirlpool Dryer: Model LER4634EZ2 which stopped heating. I checked the coils that was "OK" then I checked the fuse that was "OK" I replaced the Thermal Fuse and High Limit Thermostat then after starting the dryer the heat came on ... problem solved NO.... the dryer just kept running and running until I opened the dryer door. Not going to put 70 or so $$$ into this 10 year old dryer which up until 12/15/2011 worked fine.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DRYER?

For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
Gas Maytag Style
Gas GE Style
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
Electric Maytag Style
Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

Electric dryers aren't very complicated. Here are some common symptoms that you may experience with your dryer:

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
There's no heat
It won't tumble
Drying is too slow
It overheats
It seems to run forever
It's noisy
It won't start
The light doesn't work
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker
My clothes smell bad!
My clothes are marked or torn

Electric Dryer Does Not Heat

• If your Whirlpool electric dryer is having trouble heating, you should check all of the thermostats, the thermal cut-off, all fuses and the electric heating element for continuity and proper connection.
  

The problem you describe is usually caused by a thermal fuse intended to shut the dryer motor down and keep it off because of a problem with air flow within the dryer.

The following process will allow you to test the thermal fuse and replace it if you find it open.

Unplug unit and turn off gas if gas model. Check to be sure you have 240 Volts at wall outlet.

Most parts likely to fail on electric dryers are inside the rear cover. Heater is on right inside can, safety thermostat on lower left of can, High limit thermostat (non-resettable) higher left of can. On the blower housing to the left are the operating thermostat and, in some models, a thermal fuse (white plastic). ALL can be continuity checked easily. Always disconnect wire on one side of what you are testing. One will likely be open. Replace the component that fails the continuity test.

Replacing the heater, if necessary, can be done by disconnecting the wires at the lower left of the heater can on right. There will be a screw on each side edge of the lower half of the can. Remove the two screws and pull off the back lower half of the heater can and reverse the above process to install the new heater.

The thermal fuse or high limit thermostat failure generally points to a reduction of air flow due to SOME blockage either inside the dryer or in the vent pipe leading out of the house. If you find either of these parts bad be sure to check the vents after replacing parts to ensure the same parts won't fail again.

should be on back behind rear panel on the duct assmebly

yes its the fuse

Sounds like the belt is either broken or has slipped off. Please post the model number so I can try to assist you, if you need help replacing it.

Sounds like belt problems.

contact the manufacturer. some parts might need to be replaced already.

Usually if a dryer won't spin, I suggest checking the belt to make sure it isn't broke or even the motor burned out. If you post a model number for your dryer, I may be able to assist you further.