I have two stax amps straps together but when I hook both amps together the protec system keeps shutting them down. The system will work with one amp just not both. I tried wiring the sub at 4 ohms, and 1 ohm no luck the subwoofer is a 2 ohm solo X.

Are you referring to something like this, using two different amps? It is a mono amp, meaning there's one amp in the box.
"KAC-9105D also has a Dual Mono Drive connection that allows you to strap two KAC-9105D amps together to power a single subwoofer."Quoted fromhttp://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Amplifiers/KAC-9105D

Here's a link to a page out of the Yamaha Sound Reinforcement book. the top shows a stereo amp (1 box, two different amps inside) hooked up to drive two different speakers, which is known as 'stereo' mode.It then shows the two amps hooked to the opposite sides of the same speaker, which is known as 'bridge' mode.http://books57.net/ampOuts.gif

Any help?

The Crane brand replacement cartridge will work. Sears (at least the one here in Ohio) carries them in store and I also found one for under $10 on amazon.com, the exact link is:

http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Demineralization-Cartridge-Elephant-Humidifiers/dp/B000V4HNYG/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1292829123&sr=1-3

it even qualifies for free Super Saver shipping, so that should help keep costs down for you. Hope this helps :-)

If you scroll down on the amazon link and look at the "frequently bought together" area, you can also purchase a 2-pack of the ProTec cleaning cartridges as well.

You have to pull the metal tab back all the way. It will click and lay flat, but you have to keep it pressed down for it has a tendency to snap shut). There are two ratchet stop check levers (black plastic pieces on the side of the strap). The way they look it would seem that you would have to squeeze them together, toward the strap, but you have to push them down towards the boot. Remember to keep the metal tab depressed so it doesn't snap shut on you. Once you push both levers down and clear the bevels on the strap, you can pull the strap back out. Open and close the strap a few times to get the "new" out of it. With more use, you will be able to squeeze the levers together (like you couldn't do the first time) and depress the levers in one motion making the taking off of your skate a lot easier. Hope this helped.

You have to pull the metal tab back all the way. It will click and lay flat, but you have to keep it pressed down for it has a tendency to snap shut). There are two ratchet stop check levers (black plastic pieces on the side of the strap). The way they look it would seem that you would have to squeeze them together, toward the strap, but you have to push them down towards the boot. Remember to keep the metal tab depressed so it doesn't snap shut on you. Once you push both levers down and clear the bevels on the strap, you can pull the strap back out. Open and close the strap a few times to get the "new" out of it. With more use, you will be able to squeeze the levers together (like you couldn't do the first time) and depress the levers in one motion making the taking off of your skate a lot easier. Hope this helped.

You have to pull the metal tab back all the way. It will click and lay flat, but you have to keep it pressed down for it has a tendency to snap shut. There are two ratchet stop check levers (black plastic pieces on the side of the strap). The way they look it would seem that you would have to squeeze them together, toward the strap, but you have to push them down towards the boot. Remember to keep the metal tab depressed so it doesn't snap shut on you. Once you push both levers down and clear the bevels on the strap, you can pull the strap back out. Open and close the strap a few times to get the "new" out of it. With more use, you will be able to squeeze the levers together (like you couldn't do the first time) and depress the levers in one motion making the taking off of your skate a lot easier. Hope this helped.

i beleive they have to be the same amps.an i think they have to be able to handle being strapped together.id look into getting new amps to run it elemental deisgns i know u can strap them together an controll them from the master amp.i dont think alpines handle 3ohms that good either.im going to check a few things an see if u can strap them two amps toghter.if u need more help email me [email protected]

If a boat is anything like a car, the amp's negative post should not be connected to the battery, but to the ground of the boat. In a car, the entire chassis is grounded to the negative terminal, so when you run a line from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive post on the amp, and a line from the negative post on the amp to the chassis it is a complete circuit. I highly recommend placing a fuse on the positive line from the battery to the amp. Wiring this way prevents the amp from blowing up your battery, as well as prevents the battery from blowing your amp. Hope it works.

If you are running a set or a single subwoofer with the jensen amp than you will want to hook up the rca cord to the subwoofer rca connection on the back of the stereo unit-the other rca outputs are there in the event that you want to run a 2 or 4 channel amp to power the speakers that are generally located in the doors or back deck-with that set up properly you would still be able to adjust the balance and the fader just as though you were powering the speakers with the deck. Pug the free ends of the RCA cord into the input rca receptacles of the amp- the stereo now will feed a signal to the amplifier that only contains bass - good luck

it sounds like it is blown..one way to test it is put the remote wire and the power wire together and put it to the possitive of a drill battery and the put the ground to the nagitive at the drill battery..if it goes right to protect then it is blown!

not getting enough air to cool off amp, if amp is in an inclosed area with restricted air flow, amp will over heat and shut down, once the amp has cooled off, it will reset.