Diagramed instructions of how to use an existing 110 outlet and make another outlet/lightswitch

You need a step down transformer, to convert 220V to 110V. You can't just plug the 110V A/C unit in directly unless it is clearly marked as being suitable for multi-voltage supply (110V - 220V input).

Such a transformer has to be of sufficient capacity to handle the current, or wattage, that will be required. The Frigidaire unit in your question is a 3.5 kW cooling capacity, so the transformer would need to be about the same, ie for a 10A supply at least. They are quite big boxes, about $120.

http://welectronics.com/TRANSFORMERS/step-up-down.JPG

You would put this in the roof or in a cupboard.

Pretty easy if you can get the wires from the existing wall outlet. Just run a wire from existing outlet to the where you want the new light. Install inside an approved ceiling electrical outlet box and then run another wire to where you want the switch or switches. If you go to home depot or the library you can look at the books with diagrams on how to wire it. You can skip the wall switch if you use a light with a pull chain.

Your question is a little hard to decipher!
By "110 outlets" I assume you mean 110V AC Power Points.
By "read hot" I would guess that you mean an Active or Hot AC Voltage where it shouldn't be and not Red Hot.

If that is the case then you need to have an electrician test the power point outlets before someone gets an electric shock.
If you are unsure of whats what then a diagram aint going to help!

Sorry.... But Safety First
Dealing with electrical problems at these voltages can be lethal.

Now.... if you have an ohm meter you can check the wiring with the power off and yes.... a diagram would be helpful.... even for the electrician

Cheers
....Jack

Dear Sir:
See the diagram attached, you must USE VOM carefully for to measure the 110VCA. Disconnect the power C.BREAKER from your house. Before to make any job.
God bless you

Two options,

1) get a three wire outlet ("plug in")
2) get a 4 conductor cable.

The 4th wire is green or bare - ground the wire to the cabinet.

You are 'safer' with the 4 conductor wire. (In the past, White served as the neutral conductor and the case may have been 'bonded' to the white, providing a "ground". Today, I believe the code requires a separate ground. Even though the white and green join in the service panel and go both to ground and "back" to the utility, there is the possibility some installations are wired through a sub panel. Common use of white as neutral and ground is not allowed in a sub-panel in most jurisdictions). Black to black, Red to red, White to white and Green (or bare) to the frame. You can make a hole and connect it or use an existing screw that is nearby to make the connection.

If you have a volt meter, you can check your existing outlet. You should get 220 V between the two legs, 110 V between "red" and "white", 110 V between "black" and "white", 110 V between "red" and "ground", 110 V between "black" and "ground", and no reading between "white" and "ground".

The terminals on your existing outlet should be clearly marked and the color code of the wire should be clear although it is POSSIBLE the color of the conductors is all black. The above series of tests will help you determine what is what if necessary.

If you are still unsure, you should get the advice of a licensed electrician in your area (which I am neither)

I hope this helps you

a

You can't really do that. The two 110 outlets probably come for the same 'leg' of the 240. If you check them with a meter, there will be '0' volts between the two hot wires. So, they have the same 'potential'. You need a regular 240 volt circuit from a double pole breaker that is rated for the wire size that it's feeding. 20 amp-#12 ; 30 amp- #10 etc.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Are the wires different colors or is there too many of one and not enough of the other. Your bathroom switch should have black which is hot, white which is neutral, and green or bare which is ground. It should be the same on the timer, but may differ. The instructions should tell which wire or terminal is hot, neutral and ground.

on a 220 set-up the green wire goes to the neutral bar where the white wires from the 110 breakers are connected. the two remaing wires, black and white go to the double breaker you will be using for power. it doesn't matter which wire goes to either breaker. at the power outlet that the dryer is the green wire goes to the ground (:-) the right hand side of this simple diagram, and it doesn't matter which of the two remaining wires hook up to the left side of the outlet (black and white)

houseconv email me at [email protected] as i need to ask you some questions and dont know how to use this site yet tmg 2000i really dont see how you could wire it wrong at the control panel they are plug in connectors if i was you id plug them in to where it runs then check for 220 at outlet driers will run at 110 volts if its going to the motor but will not heat if you switch the wires and send the 110 to the heater drier will do nothing you may only be getting 110 at outlet partial trippep breaker bad out let bad cord bad terminal etc can get diagram if needed e mail me for diagram

I would contact a few electricians for their opinions. Appliances like microwaves and ranges, etc. should be on separate circuits / breakers due to the high currents they draw.