PIt was plugged into a power strip w/a microwave. When the coffee maker was turned on at the same time the microwave was on and the power strip turned off both machines. Reset the power strip and the microwave came back on. The Keurig did not. We plugged into another power source and it still didn't come on.

If your Better Chef siphon coffee maker is not heating the water and the timer buttons are on but nothing happens, there could be a few possible causes for this issue. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can try:

1. Check the power supply: Ensure that the coffee maker is properly plugged into a working power outlet. Verify that the power outlet itself is functional by plugging in another device.
2. Reset the coffee maker: Try resetting the coffee maker by turning off the power, unplugging it from the power source, and waiting for a few minutes. Then, plug it back in and turn it on again.
3. Verify timer settings: Make sure that the timer settings are correctly set. Check the user manual for your specific model to ensure that you have set the timer correctly for the desired brewing time.
4. Check the water level: Ensure that the water reservoir is filled to the appropriate level. Some coffee makers have a minimum water level requirement for proper operation.
5. Clean the coffee maker: If the heating element or the water flow is obstructed by mineral deposits or other debris, it may prevent the water from heating. Clean the coffee maker as per the manufacturer's instructions, paying special attention to the heating element and water pathways.
6. Contact customer support: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it is recommended to reach out to Better Chef customer support for further assistance. They may be able to provide specific troubleshooting steps or advise on potential repairs or replacements.

Remember to always refer to the user manual provided with your coffee maker for model-specific instructions and safety guidelines.

Hello senior,
Are there other appliances (microwave, etc.) plugged into the same circuit (keep in mind that the circuit could have multiple outlets)? If other appliances were running on the same circuit at the same time this may have overloaded the circuit. If this is the case, you could try unplugging the other appliances and then plug the coffee maker in again. If the coffee pot repeatedly blows a fuse when it is the only appliance plugged into the circuit, then there may be an electrical problem with the coffee pot.

Many coffee makers use neon bulbs to indicate that power is on. These do burn out after a while, but replacement is usually somewhat difficult. In this case, the coffee maker still works; you just don't have the immediate visual indication.

Many of the urn-type coffee pots have problems with the power cord breaking where it goes into the pot. To fix this, you need to remove the bottom, cut the cord where it is broken (on the outside of the pot), strip it back to match the part of the cord remaining inside the pot and crimp on new terminals of the same kind used on the original ends. The hardest part is squeezing the strain relief clamp where the cord enters the pot to remove it, and putting it back on. Study it carefully as it you remove it from the cord so you know how it works. To avoid a repeat of the same problem (and buying a new cord), be careful not twist the cord or bend it too tightly at the strain relief. NOTE: one of the wires in the power cord has a rib on the outer jacket. This is the neutral wire. Make sure it connects to the same place inside the pot as the original neutral.

Other failure points are at the power switch, or (rarely) the heater element. I've seen a programmable coffee maker with a burned-out relay (magnetic switch in a black plastic box on the circuit board). The clock and timer worked, but the heater wasn't getting any power. That part is about $5.

The easiest way to identify the problem is with an ohmmeter. Start by removing the bottom of the coffee maker (unplug it first!). Identify the heater terminals (the heater looks like a small version of the one in your oven and has either screw or slip-on terminals). Connect one of the ohmmeter test leads to each heater terminal to measure the heater resistance (typically 5 - 20 Ohms). If you have a basic (non-programmable) coffee maker, turn on the power switch and measure the resistance from each terminal to each prong on the plug. You should read either nearly zero ohms, or the heater resistance plus not more than a few tenths of an ohm. If you read open to one prong of the plug, you are on the track. Trace where the wire from that heater terminal goes. If it goes to the power switch, check the resistance of the power switch in the on position. If the reading is more than a couple of tenths of an ohm, the switch has dirty contacts, or it's broken or burned out. If you have a good connection from the heater to the power line side of the switch, but you get open from there to the hot side of the plug, the power cord is bad. Likewise, if you get an open reading from the other heater terminal to the neutral side of the plug, the cord is bad.

Programmable coffee makers have a similar troubleshooting procedure, except that you have to check for live AC voltage with the pot plugged in - this is not something to try if you aren't trained in the safe way to do this.

Have to up the breaker at panel that controls that line of outlet circuits, but sometimes can not do this as wires in walls that control those outlets are on same circuit and rated at a curtain size breaker. Best and safest way to solve this is plug machine on different circuit that maybe not so many other items are sharing, like if your fridge or microwave is on that same circuit (breaker) it most likely will always trip. Let me know results if this solved problem, thanks Mr Bean Man

Take off top of brewer after unplugging and check all electrical connections.If it is a older VPR it probably has a bad plug.You can cut off old plug and replace.You can pick up a new one at the hardware store.

Hi there, Here's what I would do. First, I'd remove the plug from the wall - and plug it into the receptacle above or below - whichever one you took it out of, plug it into the other one. If there's still no power, try another receptacle. If this doesn't work, check your circuit breaker to make sure you haven't tripped a breaker. Also, if you have a GFI breaker nearby - that could've tripped, and you would need to reset it. Coffee makers, toasters, microwaves, etc. are famous for tripping circuits due to their high amperage. NEVER plug these small appliances into the same receptacle, or on the same circuit. Basically, you're making sure that you've checked all your power sources before narrowing it down to your coffee maker. Now I going to assume you know how to operate your coffee maker completely. If it's no longer under any kind of warranty, the easiest way to see if it's the switch is too connect the two wires together on that switch. Meaning, with the coffee maker unplugged - then take it apart as diligently as possible, trying to get to the switch. Take the two wires apart from the switch and connect (splice) them together - using a wire nut or, a real good tape job with electrical tape.If you have a multi-tester that measures ohms (resistance), put your two leads across the switch screws, or terminals. Before turning on the switch, you should have an open (no short) reading on your meter. Now turn the switch to the ON position and retest. Now you should get a closed (direct short) reading. If not, you have a bad switch. Then that could lead to another problem. But lets just focus on doing this first. If you would like, you can test your coffee maker by following my next directions. This will affirm and confirm that your switch is bad. So the next step is to put the coffee maker back to its original state (yes, your switch will have been removed - and now you've just bypassed the switch - running it directly off the wall receptacle). Now, the safe way to do this is to turn OFF the power to that receptacle...or bring the coffee maker to a receptacle in your garage or somewhere near your electrical panel where you know which circuit controls the plug. So, turn OFF the power, plug in the coffee maker with it in the ON position - and on brew, so when you turn on the circuit breaker switch - you're operating the coffee maker from a remote and safe distance in case of a malfunction of any kind. So before we go any further, try all this - and if it works, then you can go to your nearest appliance store (or if you know the store where it was bought) and buy a new one. When you purchase your new switch, just repeat the steps you did to take the switch out, and always make sure to turn OFF and unplug when working on it, or anything. I hope this helps and works for you. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me. However, I think you'll find your problem here. And, it's really not that difficult. Just be patient, and everything will work out fine. Good Luck! - Jim

No your brewer is fried call keurig 1800 cup brew

Just a hunch; plug it in to a different outlet.

AC outlets are only marginal when new and that unit can draw well over 10 amps.
If the contacts are failing, the unit will think it has been disconnected, killing off the clock setting too.

If that doesn't help, try plugging another high power appliance, an iron, toaster or coffee maker, into the same outlet used for the GE to see if they behave normally.

My coffee maker is a Signature Classic and when I turn it on the light turns on but nothing happens. The water doesn't steam and the hot plate under my coffee pot doesn't heat up either, what's wrong I need my coffee?

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