Bottom drawer wall is covered s ice/ top shelf not freezing

use your wife's electric handheld hair dryer as close to the rails as you can once slightly open you can use table salt/ice melt to free the drawer or; turn up your house thermostat to about 80 degrees for the day while you are at work; the drawer should be free by the time you get home.

it could be that your fridge,freezer setting is not turned up high enough to keep the freezer cold enough.turn it up to setting number 5 at least and if that dont do it u could have a faulty thermostat.have it checked by a engineer.

Unplug the unit and take out all the drawers and remove the back (behind the drawers) panel carefully. (This back panel has foamy thermal insulation behind it and this will be probably be enmeshed with ice - you may have to wait awhile for this ice to melt before you can remove the panel, even after you have unscrewed it.
When you have got the back panel off, you will see a large solid block of ice, probably halfway up the cooling coils, right down to the bottom of the exposed space. You have to melt all this ice (I used a hair dryer to blow warm air onto the ice (have towels and a bucket ready to mop up the melted water, otherwise it will run over the floor. When you have melted all this ice, you will see a drain hole at the bottom of the exposed space. This will have ice in it and it must be cleared.
Then replace the back panel and all should be OK.
The panel bulges because ice/water is accumulating behind the panel, water, when it freezes, expands, forcing the panel forwards.
I reckon it's a Hotpoint Design fault. What is supposed to happen is that during the heating cycle, melted ice drops down from the cooling coils and down the drain hole onto a plate over the compressor unit, where it evaporates. BUT, during the cooling cycle, a fan circulates cold air from the cooling coils, through the entire unit, which includes the chamber behind the panel that is below the coils. Thus this chamber gets cold (-18 deg.C) so that water dripping down during the heating cycle is frozen before it has a chance to fall down the drain hole.
I now defrost in this manner every six months or so. Sadly, very sadly, Hotpoint, like other white goods manufacturers (Baxi Potterton boilers for instance) do not reply to my enquiries.
Hope this helps.

Honestly, it really sounds like your problem in the drain is blocked and is overflowing causing a nightmare. I'm assuming it starts just at the bottom of the back wall just around the first set of drawers. There is a kit that they make that actually resolves this issue. Unfortunatly, after looking it up they actually discontinued that part for your model. Not to worry, I'll tell you how to build on. You'll want to remove the drawers and the shelfs and the back wall. For maximun ease I recommend turning the machine off for a day or two and letting everything thaw out. Once the back is off locate the defrost heater. It will run along the bottom of the evaporator. Now, find the drain hole in the trough below the heater area. Once you;ve done that find an aluminum can and good pair of scissors. Cut a strip that can fit down the drain hole, but not to small or too big. Be sure to make it a decent length. Take one end and sort of wrap it around the defrost heater directly above the drain hole then have the rest of the strip go into the drain. How this works is everytime the machine goes into defrost, this ice will melt and the water will fall to the trough where it will go to the drain. The bad thing is hot water actually freezes faster than cold, but with the aluminum improvised drain heater, heat from the element above will pass downward to the aluminum keeping the water warm enough to not freeze as it goes down the drain and finally out of the machine. Your problem will be a thing of the past. Good luck

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remove all food from fridge and take it outside. leave it outside until ice is melted. this is the procedure and i have to do it every day im a Refrigeration Mechanic.

bread and ice cream are the 1st things to defrost and it sounds like a gas problem and at 25 years old time for a new i think.

I turned the fridge and freezer off using the circular dials, I then turned the unit off at the mains. Left it for a few minutes and then turned the power back on. I then turned the circular dials to "max" and then depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons to turn this facility on. This time they came on normally (not flashing) and no alarm sounded. The fridge and freezer then started to get cold. Once the unit had been running for several hours I then turned the dials to the 3/4 mark and depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons again to turn them off. Over night the fridge and the freezer appear to be working properly so I hope that my problem is solved. Maybe the unit just needed to "settle" before being switched on?

I would use a hairdryer to defrost the door secton with the other part closed off or covered.

My Bosch Frost Free Fridge Freezer did the same thing - Ice forming in the bottom of the freezer area after a few days.

It was caused by a blocked drain pipe - When the freezer does the de-frosting cycle, the melted ice drips into a tray and tehn runs into a dish on top of teh compressor, through a pipe.

If this pipe gets blocked, the de frosted ice overflows from the tray and overflows into the bottom of the freezer and then re-freezes !

To fix, pull the freezer away form the wall, locate the pipe that runs to the dish on top of the compressor and blow through it - This should clear it. Alternatively, from inside the freezer compartment, pull off the cover at the back, but the clips holding it on will probably break off, as mine did ! You can sort of push the cover back on and re-fit the food draws.

hi thanks for the question the drain hose leading from the freezer is clogged up remove the ice from the bottom pull fridge from wall find small drain tube clean the tube now it will drain into tray vacuum out while your there thanks the appliance doc