KitchenAid 24 in. KUDI02IRBS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher Logo

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Posted on Oct 27, 2010

I have a Kitchenaid model KUDL02IRBS1 dishwasher. It died with no lights to the front panel at all. I have power at the main wire connection to the unit. I checked the door switch and it works. I checked power at what looks like a solinoid on the circut board and it has 115V.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3614 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 05, 2008

SOURCE: dishwasher: KUDL02IRBS1 WORKING FINE. NEXT DAY, PRESS

1) Be sure the power is on, the door is latched, and the control is turned on. Also make sure the appliance cord is plugged into the electrical receptacle under the sink (some are hardwired and don't come unplugged).
2) If that doesn't solve the problem, the door switch, the timer, or the selector switch may be defective. To solve the problem, you may be able to adjust the door latch's strike slightly, using a screwdriver (turn off the power to the dishwasher at the electrical panel when working on it).

3) If that doesn't work, call an appliance repair person.

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2009

SOURCE: Kitchenaid dishwasher - door will not latch

The latch needs to be replaced. Kitchen Aid has made two updates to this latch. I.E. 2-revised latches. I just replacd the latch assembly and the dishwasher works fine now. Do a search for kitchen aid repair parts online and hav them shipped to your home. The repair takes five minutes. Un-screw all torx bit screws on door and the latch is under neath. One electrical dip switch held on by another screw and a two prong tab to undo the old latch. This seriously took me five minutes to repair and the parts were $40.00 online shipped.

Hope his helps.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Pops open during cycle

The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.

With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.

Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.

Anonymous

  • 246 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 21, 2009

SOURCE: KITCHENAID DISHWASHER DOOR PANEL

www.applianceart.com has many options for you to choose from. They sell many different panels to put on your dishwasher. If you call them (678-727-4747 x32) they can also send you a metal stainless plate that is easily installed. I think the metal ones are around $99.99 and the other options are $39.99

Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 01, 2009

SOURCE: kitchenaid dishwasher, control panel is not

I don't know your technical ability, but there is a fuse located next to the control board inside the console, this is a good place to start. Kitchen Aid is good about putting tech sheets on the back of the kickplate and it should have wiring and diagnostic info there. Just be sure to put the sheets back so the next service tech to work on it will have them :)

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there is a fuse on the main control board under the control panel. most likely it needs replacing. you will know it by the 2 individual wires to a rectangle white or a black round object attached to the main board.
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2) If that doesn't solve the problem, the door switch, the timer, or the selector switch may be defective. To solve the problem, you may be able to adjust the door latch's strike slightly, using a screwdriver (turn off the power to the dishwasher at the electrical panel when working on it).

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Door switch The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.

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