I have had my Husqvarna 145 BT blower for about three years. It has always worked like a champ (except for the black return fuel line pulling out the gas tank). Most recently, I was in the middle of the yard and I had been using the blower for about 10 minutes when the engine just stopped. I checked the ignition switch and found it to be in the 'on' position. Now I cannot get the engine started again. Where is the most likely place to start trouble-shooting for that sort of failure? Ignition switch failure - spark plug - or fuel line?

SOURCE: I have a homelite leaf blower model ut08544 that will not start

If a small engine wont start its usually one of two problems, its not getting gas, or its not getting spark. easy way to find out if its getting a spark is to remove the plug, put it back back in the connector and just let it hang down while you try to start it. you should see a bright blue spark, if you dont try changing the spark plug. if its getting a spark come back on this site and i'll help you trouble shoot it.

SOURCE: homelite yard blower won't start

1st how old is the gas and 2nd how long did it sit for since you last used it? If there was any old fuel left in before now (more than 14 days) than it is possible your carb needs cleaning. If it's less than 14 days then you might want to check the compression. IF you have good compression, then you might want to take it to a service center to have it diagnosed.

SOURCE: Fuel Leak

Hi

Yes.You dop not need to replace the entire fuel assembly only the breather.

best regards savumihai71

SOURCE: will not start

Homelite leaf blowers that use whats called a half crankshaft system are prone to many problems. Whats a half crank system you ask? If there is a small aluminum plate that attaches to the side of the engine by the gas tank you have one of these. Usually held on with 4 small bolts. I just got rid of a Homelite Vac Attack 2 that had spark and compression but the compression checked low about 75 should be 90 or better. What happened, a head bolt came loose and the engine ran lean causing the fragile rings on the piston to heat up and when that happens they loose their outward spring that seals against the cyclinder walls. A simple compression check using a gauge and not your finger will tell you that. Other causes could be less than normal spark, or maybe the exhaust port under the muffler has carbon build up or the muffler is plugged up also Check all bolts, and nuts to make sure they are tight.

Glenn
St. Paul, MN

SOURCE: I have a Homelite Yard Broom gas blower that won't prime/stalls.

Hello sodevine69:

>>From your Description it Sounds like the Fuel Filter in the Tank Requires Changing, the Carburetor Metering Jet is Stuck, the Carburetor Filter/Screen is Restricted and Requires Cleaning/Replacing or the Carburetor Requires Cleaning.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Replacing the Fuel Lines and the Filter on Chain Saws and Trimmers. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Fuel Line is Pushed and Pulled (I Use Long Needle Nose Pliers) Through the Small Hole Until the Hose is Out the Fill Hole about a 1/2".
>>You can Also Use a Coat Hanger with a Small J at the End to Hook the Filter in the Tank and Pull the Filter and Hose (if Detached from the Carburetor) Out the Tank Fill Hole Enough to Replace the Filter.
>>Then Attach the Filter and Pull the Hose Back Until the Filter Lays at the Bottom of the Tank Just Below the Fill Hole (or so it is in the Bottom of the Tank and will Rest in the Fuel Mix when Turned at Common Angles the Unit May be Turned to During Operation.
>>**Hint: Use Plenty of Spray Lubrication at the Small Hole as you are Feeding in the Hose. It Slides Easier.**
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace are the Needle Valve and Metering Pump Diaphram.
>>The Metering Pump Diaphram is Under the Carburetor Plate with 4 Small Screws in it.
>>The Dowl on the Diaphram should Just Touch the Metering Jet Actuator Arm.
>>The Actuator Arm is Adjusted by Carefully Bending the Actuator Arm Up or Down to get the Correct Clearance.
>>If you Order a Kit, then Replace All the Old Components with the New Ones in the Kit even if the Old Parts Look Good.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers.
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine.
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)