I have one and it is damaged from sun , salt and yrs. i need a new one and can't find one . can you locate a new one or recommend a replacmement?

If this was salt watercor contaminated water, then the only chance is to immediately remove the battery and rinse the Phone several times in clean pure water to remove the conductive salt / contaminated water. Then leave it to dry out in the sun or in a warm place for a few hours until all the residual moisture evaporates & drys out. With any luck the phone will turn on and work. If it was left with salt water or contaminated water for a long period before rinsing this may lead to permanent internal damage.

The sun screen coating is damaged. This usually happens when salt water is allowed to dry on the display face or cleaning chemicals are used. The bezel will need to be replaced. 001-036-750 $115

If the water tastes salty then there is too much salt in it. The amount of stabilizer is very important too. If it is low then any chlorine the generates will be gone when the sun hits it. Stabilizer is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be dissipated in a few hours when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit (either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you to buy but start out with vinyl safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.
5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming.
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.

Smile, you are a pool manager.

If your pool water is clowdy and slimy then it is about to turn green. What you need to do first is shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
The most common error users make in managing a salt water pool besides not having salt in the pool has no stabilizer in it. This is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be disipated in a few hours when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit (either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you to buy but start out with vinyl safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.
5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming.
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.

Smile, you are a pool manager.

The most common error besides not having salt in the pool is not having the right amount stabilizer in it. This is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be disipated in a few hours when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit (either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you to buy but start out with vinyl safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.
5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming.
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.

Smile, you are a pool manager..

Code 93 = Good News for You! :-D It is your Saltwater Chlorinator's way of letting you know that it is working properly and your pool's water has a level of salt that is optimal/good.

Code 93 just lets you know it is not actively converting salt to chlorine...it is in 'standby mode.' When you first programmed the number of hours you wanted it to run (by pressing the left (down)arrow until you heard the beep, then pressing the right (up) arrow until you heard the beep - then pressing up until you reached the desired number of hours you wanted the unit to operate (minimum 1 hour, maximum 12 hours)) the unit began converting salt to chlorine immediately.
This is good news for you. Once the number of hours of operation are up, your unit will give you a code when you press either button. If your salt level is too low, you will receive code 91 indicating this, if your salt level is too high, you will receive code 92 indicating this, if the water flow is too low, you will receive code 90 indicating this (this gives you the opportunity to correct this before the next cycle begins. If there is no error with your pool's water, your unit will go into standby and wait until it is time to run the numbers of hours you programmed it for (it will begin it's cycle at the same time each day unless reprogrammed by you). When this happens, you will find code 93.

So, just to recap:
Code 93 = Good
Code 92= Salt level too HIGH (Empty approx. 20% of pools water & refill with fresh water.)
Code 91 = Salt level too LOW (Add salt.)
Code 90 = Low Water Flow (Check your filter. If it is working properly, you may find that it is too small for your pool. The filter that came with my pool was FAR TOO SMALL - I spent more time cleaning the pool than swimming in it. My 18' x 4' pool came with a 1500 filter. Now, I have a 4000 Sand Filter. This + the Saltwater Chlorinator = practically no maintenance. Together, these were approximately a $500 investment. WELL WORTH IT!!!)
Code 88 = Startup mode. (Press down arrow until you hear the beep. Press up arrow until you hear the beep. Press up arrow until you have the unit set to operate the number of hours you desire.)
As an extra FYI: The unit works with the sun. This means the unit turns the salt from your pool into natural chlorine which is then sent back into your pool. The sun turns this natural chlorine into salt. Your filter sends this salt into your saltwater chlorinator where it is again converted into natural chlorine & returned to your pool where then sun...I think you get it. ;-) It's a continuous process. ~This being the case, when you program your saltwater chlorinator, it is best to set it up to help it work with the sun rather than setting it up to compete with the sun. You do this by programming it to run at night. This way, your unit isn't working hard to generate chlorine at the same time the sun is diligently converting the chlorine to salt. I've read several articles where people argue that you should run your saltwater system at night & your filter during the day. I don't understand this concept. My filter runs 24/7 & my saltwater chlorinator runs 12 hours - from 8pm to 8am. Since I set my pool up to operate this way, I have not had to clean it at all other than backwashing the filter every other month just for principle. My water is crystal clear.
One further note of interest: My pool holds approximately 6000 gallons of water. For this, Intex recommends 135 pounds of salt. Because of some advice I'd read posted by other users, I started with only one 40lb bag. This was all my pool needed. Approximately once/year, I add one more 40lb bag.
RJBALLZER777, because you are receiving code 93, I realize you have set your pool up correctly and, therefore, are possibly thinking, "Why is she telling me all of these things I don't need to know?" I apologize if that is what you are thinking. I am really posting for those who have not gotten it just right the first time (or who are doing their research before buying as I did) so that they may get several questions answered at once. Hope you don't mind that I used your question as a means to post. (That's why I answered your question right off the bat.) Hope this post helps some.

If you find anything in my remarks that conflicts with the manufacturers instruction, rely on the manufacturers instruction, and seek guidance from a pool professional in your area.

To make chlorine, you need between 2800 and 3400 PPM salt in the water. Do you have between 2800 and 3400 PPM? How did you test? Do you run your filter 24-7? (you should for best results) Is your cell clean and otherwise in operating order? (clean with muratic acid solution recommended by your pool chemical supplier)

A few words about water balance: Before you replace the device, make sure you have removed all metal from the water (sequestering agent), that your alkalinity is correct (between 80 and 120), that the pH is between 7.2 and 7.6, and the salt is between 2800 and 3400. Not critical for a above ground pool, but check the calcium - in a plaster pool (where this is critical), the recommended level is around 300 ppm. If yours is there, great. If it is 1000 or more, you will have to dilute your water with water that is calcium free to bring the level down to a more comfortable level. (Calcium and Salt are both persistent (not consumable) they will not go away any other way). The only way to reduce these two chemicals is by dulution. The alkalinity should be around 100 as this is "sun block" for the pH. With incorrect alkalinity level, your pH will bounce all over the place. I recommend a Taylor Test kit ... not test strips ... to find the real levels in your pool. Taylor calls it the FSA-DPD kit for professionals, available many places, including FixYa.com advertisers. Expect to pay a little over $50.00 for this kit. Taylor also offers a salt test kit, though it is a little pricey @ about $40.00 in my area.

Of course, if your device is kaput, you can always add chlorine (liquid or dry) manually.

One more thing, since you are making chlorine instead using dry, you should check your Cyanuric acid level(also called stabiliser). A good level is 50 to 80 ppm. Cyanuric Acid is"sun block" for your chlorine. If your cyanuric acid level is low, the sun will eat your chlorine almost as fast as you can make it. Cyanuric acid is also persistent - see above for particulars.

I hope this comment helps resolve your trouble. Enjoy your pool.

BTW, I am a certified Pool Operator and I operate three pools of water in a private, recreational park in a popular resort destination on the East Coast.

Thanks for visiting FixYa!

First, the sticker color doesn't always indicate whether your phone has water damage.

The first thing you need to know is that water - even fresh water - contains salt. And, salt is an excellent conductor of electricity. Even when the water evaporates, salt deposits remain. Even a very small amount of salt will cause the electronics in your phone to short circuit thereby keeping you from using certain features on your phone.

We run into this problem all the time here at the shop. It has been our experience that even if the phone is properly serviced and begins to work properly again, the fix is short lived. The phone usually begins to become non-functional a short time later (maybe a week - maybe two weeks later.)

I recommend that if you carry insurance on your phone with your cellular provider, that you submit a claim for a new phone. If you don't carry insurance, contact your cellular company and tell them your phone has water damage and see if you are eligible for an upgrade. If you are, you can get a new phone at a substantial discount. If you're not eligible, they may make an exception

I would however, strongly recommend that you not waste your money on repairs, under the circumstances.

Intex salt water system does not keep your pool cleaner. It is only a means to not have to buy liquid or tablets
If your salt is not at 3000ppm not below 2700 not above 3800 you will not generate enough sanitizer ( chlorine )

You need a good stabilizer to help hold chlorine content and a good non foaming algecide which you would use every 5-7 days

Don't forget chlorine consumption is caused by many factors.

# of swimmers, heat, sun, rain, did any one sneak in with sun tan oils and so on and the worst thing for a pool is to not use it on a daily basis.

Get your money back on the salt system and go with what worked for you.

minimum of 9 hours, recommend run at least 12, all the time if possible.