In injection timing adjustment to adjust plunger stroke which procedures is applied?

Exhaust black smoke
The main causes of exhaust pipe blackening are less air in the cylinder, more fuel, incomplete or untimely combustion of fuel. Therefore, when checking and analyzing faults, look closely around this point to find out reasons. Check cylinder by using the method of oil cut, the first distinction is that the individual cylinder is not working well or all cylinders are not working well. If the black smoke disappears when a cylinder stops working, then the black smoke is caused by the bad work of individual cylinders. The reasons can be found from the bad work of individual cylinders.

The main reasons are:

A. Poor nozzle operation

The injection pressure of the injector is too low, the nozzle drips oil, the spray quality is not good and the oil droplet is too strong, all of which will cause the diesel fuel to burn incompletely. Therefore, in the detection of diesel engine cylinder knocking sound, exhaust sound uneven, that is, fuel injection problems, should be immediately checked and adjusted injection nozzle.

B. The fuel injection pump adjusts the tooth rod or the adjustment rod stroke is too large, resulting in too much fuel supply.

C. Valve clearance does not meet requirements, resulting in insufficient air intake.

D. The contact surface between the plunger sleeve of the injection pump and the valve seat is not sealed, or the locking screw of the regulating ring of the fuel injection pump or the loosening of the plunger adjusting arm cause the imbalance of the fuel supply and lead to intermittent black smoke emission.

More supports, please see on www.dieselgeneratortech.com

Requires special tools. Take to pro.

Same answer as to first post.

wow no job stated.
04 (2.3L) ill take a wild guess and say, you might be fiddling the cam
and doing something there, new cam, new lifters, new chain, new head, ? what?
FSM means factory service manual, ever heard of one?

the FSM is just lousy 4 bucks why not read that first. and not mess it up.

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1004-2004-aerio-service-manual.aspx

you said SET, so i can only assume its all apart. right then
you want to Instal the chain and time it, right so here are the fsm steps
no photos. log in and read the FSM for that.

1. Check that match mark on crankshaft timing sprocket is in match with timing mark on lower crankcase.
2. Install crankshaft timing sprocket as shown in figure.
3. Apply oil to bush of idler sprocket and install idler sprocket and sprocket shaft.
4. Install first timing chain by aligning dark blue plate of first timing chain and match mark on idler sprocket.
5. Bring yellow plate of first timing chain into match with match mark on crankshaft timing sprocket.
6. Apply engine oil to sliding surface of timing chain tensioner and then install it as shown in figure. Tighten tensioner nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
7. With latch of tensioner adjuster No.1 returned and plunger pushed back into body, insert stopper into latch and body. After inserting it, check to make sure that plunger will not come out.
8. Install timing chain tensioner adjuster No.1. Tighten the timing chain tensioner adjuster No. 1 bolt to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
9. Pull out stopper from adjuster No.1.
10. Apply engine oil to sliding surface of timing chain guide No.1 and then install it. Tighten guide bolts to 6.5 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).
11. Check that dark blue and yellow plates of first timing chain are in match with match marks on sprockets respectively.
12. Install second timing chain as follows:
    • Check that match mark on crank timing sprocket is in match with timing mark on lower crankcase.
    • Check that arrow mark on idler sprocket faces upward.
    • Check that knock pins of intake and exhaust camshafts are aligned with timing marks on cylinder head.
    • Install second timing chain by aligning yellow plate of second timing chain and match marks on idler sprocket.
    • Install sprockets to intake and exhaust camshafts by aligning dark blue plate of second timing chain, match marks on intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket respectively. NOTE As an arrow mark is provided on both sides, camshaft timing sprocket has no specific installation direction.
      
      
      

• Install intake and exhaust camshaft timing sprocket bolts. To install it, fit a spanner to hexagonal part at the center of camshaft to hold it stationary. Tighten the camshaft timing sprocket bolt to 57.5 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
• Push back plunger into tensioner body and hold it at the position by inserting stopper into body.
• Install timing chain tensioner adjuster No.2 with new gasket. Tighten the timing chain tensioner adjuster No. 2 bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and No. 2 nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
• Pull out stopper from timing chain tensioner adjuster No.2.
• Turn crankshaft two rotations clockwise then align timing mark on crankshaft and timing mark on cylinder block.
• Check that timing marks of cylinder head and cylinder block are in match with match marks on sprockets respectively.
• Apply oil to timing chains, tensioner, tensioner adjusters, sprockets, and guides.
• Install timing chain cover. Reverse removal sequence to install timing chain cover noting the following points:
  
  • Apply sealant "A" and "B" to area as shown.
    
    • "A": Sealant 99000-31250
    • "B": Sealant 99000-31140
  • Apply sealant amount to the following areas.
    
    • "a": 0.12 inches (3mm)
    • "b": 0.08 inches (2mm)
    • "c": 0.24 inches (6mm)
    • "d": 0.63 inches (16mm)
    • "e": 0.55 inches (14mm)
    • "f": 2.56 inches (65mm)
    • "g": 2.87 inches (73mm)
    • "h": 0.16 inches (4mm)
  • Apply engine oil to oil seal lip, then install timing chain cover. Tighten bolts and nut to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
    NOTE Before installing timing chain cover, check that pin is securely fitted.
• • Before installing timing chain cover, check that pin is securely fitted.
• Install alternator belt idler pulley. Tighten nut to 30.5 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
• Install alternator belt tensioner. Tighten bolts to 18.5 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
• Install water pump pulley.
• Install A/C compressor bracket (if equipped). Tighten bracket bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
• Install cylinder head cover with new gaskets and seal washers and tighten nuts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
• Install oil pan.
• Install crankshaft pulley using pulley holder tool. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 108.5 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
• Install engine assembly.
• Install all remaining components in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

did that cover it, surely not.
but if you get the FSM and read it or log in , you will not miss the photos and the complex sealing bs on this motor.

get your car fix right now
Toyota Land Cruiser

Yes, there is a procedure to get the engine to idle correctly. Turn engine off, key on Open the throttle and let in snap shut against the minimum air screw. The throttle angle displayed in diagnostics on ECM parameter ED01 TPS -1.0 to + 1.0. The TPS should be adjusted to fall into this parameter. After that has been done. Connect a wire from the -side of battery to terminal c on the isc motor. and a wire to the + side of battery to terminal d. The plunger should be at its highest position against the throttle lever to adjust. This may take a few times of applying power to get it to ratchet to full ext. The TPS parameter should be at 10.5 to 11.5 on the diagnostic center. Adjust by turning the plunger on the ISC. Press the cool blue button and the off button to get the diagnostic function up. Any more question please reply as I have a service manual and fixed my 89 seville for this problem.

1. For the 4.3L engines which are equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, tighten the rocker arm adjusting nuts against the stop shoulders to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-96 models and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-99 models. No further adjustment is necessary, or possible.
   
2. For most 4.3L engines which are not equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs and positive stop shoulders, properly adjust the valve lash. For details on valve lash adjustment, please refer to the procedure in Routine Maintenance . (see below)

4.3L Engine

The 4.3L engines may be equipped with either of 2 rocker arm retaining systems. If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible. If however, you engine utilizes the pressed-in rocker arm studs, use the following procedure to tighten the rocker arm nuts and properly center the pushrod on the hydraulic lifter:

1. To prepare the engine for valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the damper pulley aligns with the 0? mark on the timing plate and the No. 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. You will know when the No. 1 piston is on it's compression stroke because both the intake and exhaust valves will remain closed as the crankshaft damper mark approaches the timing scale.

Another method to tell when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke is by removing the spark plug and placing your thumb over the hole, you will feel the air being forced out of the spark plug hole. Stop turning the crankshaft when the TDC timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is directly aligned with the timing mark pointer or the zero mark on the scale.
The valve arrangement is as follows:



E-I-I-E-I-E (right bank-front-to-rear) E-I-E-I-I-E (left bank-front-to-rear)

1. With the engine on the compression stroke, adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 & 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 & 3 by performing the following procedures:
   1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
   2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
   3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turns.
   
   
2. Rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the mark on the damper pulley with the 0? mark on the timing plate; the engine is now positioned on the No. 4 firing position. This time the No. 4 cylinder valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale. Adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 & 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 & 6, by performing the following procedures:
   1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
   2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
   3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turn.
   
   

On Vehicle Inspection If a clanging noise due to the lash adjuster produced immediately after the engine has started or during operation persists, perform the following checks:

1. Check the engine oil, and add or replace if necessary.
   1. If the engine oil is low, the air drawn in from the oil strainer will be trapped in the oil passage.
   2. If the engine oil level is higher than the specified level, agitation of oil by the crankshaft could cause a large amount of air to enter the oil.
   3. A deteriorated oil contains a large amount of air, because the air, once trapped, is not readily separated from the oil. If the air trapped due to these causes enters the high pressure chamber in the lash adjuster, the air in the high pressure chamber will be compressed while the valve is in the opened position. The lash adjuster will be drawn too far in, and will produce noise when the valve closes. This is the same phenomenon that occurs when the valve clearance is adjusted to an excessive dimension. Fig. 1: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 2.0L, 2.3L, 2.4L and 2.6L Engines
      Fig. 2: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.0L (12 Valve) Engines
      Fig. 3: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.0L (24 Valve) Engines
      Fig. 4: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.5L Engines
      Fig. 5: Push the rocker arm to check if the rocker moves down or not — all engines except for the 3.5L Engines.
      Fig. 6: Push the rocker arm to check if the rocker moves down or not — 3.5L Engines.
      In this case, the normal condition will be restored if the air escapes from the lash adjuster.
      
2. Start the engine and slowly race (accelerate the engine from idling speed to 3,000 rpm in 30 seconds and then decelerate it to the idling speed in 30 seconds) it several times (less than 10 times). If racing the engine causes the noise to die away, it means that the air has escaped from the high pressure chamber of the lash adjuster and that the lash adjuster has regained its normal functions.
   1. When the vehicle is parked on a slope for a long period of time, the oil in the lash adjuster will decrease. When the engine is started, the air might enter the high pressure chamber.
   2. After a long period of parking during which the oil in the oil passage goes away, it will take some time before the oil is re-supplied to the lash adjuster. Therefore, the air could enter the high pressure chamber.
3. If any abnormal noise is not eliminated by racing, check the lash adjuster.
   1. Stop the engine.
   2. Set the engine so that cylinder No. 1 is positioned at the top dead center of the compression stroke.
   3. Press the rocker arm at the area indicated by the white arrow mark to check whether the rocker arm is lowered or not.
   4. Slowly turn the crankshaft 360°clockwise.
   5. In the same procedure as step "c'', check the rocker arm at the area indicated by the black arrow mark.
   6. Push down the rocker arm at a portion located right above the lash adjuster. If the rocker arm goes down readily, the lash adjuster is defective. Replace it with a new one in accordance with Step 4. In addition, when replacing the lash adjuster, be sure to remove air positively from the lash adjuster before installation. Then perform inspection in accordance with steps "a'' through "e'' to make sure that there is no abnormality. In addition, if the rocker arm is felt to be very stiff or cannot be pushed down when it is pushed, the lash adjuster is in the normal condition. Therefore, check for other causes of noise.

Bleeding and Checking When cleaning or checking the lash adjusters, use only clean diesel fuel. To test the lash adjusters, follow this procedure.

1. Immerse the lash adjuster in clean diesel fuel.
2. While lightly pushing down the inner steel ball using a small wire, move the plunger up and down four or five times to bleed air. The use of the retainer facilitates the air bleeding of the rocker arm mounted type lash adjuster.
3. Remove the small wire and press the plunger in. If the plunger is hard to be pushed in, the lash adjuster is normal. If the plunger can be pushed in all the way readily, bleed the lash adjuster again and test again. If the plunger is still loose, replace the lash adjuster. NOTE: Upon completion of bleeding the air out of the lash adjuster, hold the adjuster upright to avoid the diesel fuel from spilling.
   
4. After air bleeding, set the lash adjuster on the special tool (leak down tester MD998440).
5. After the plunger has gone down somewhat 0.008–0.020 in. (0.2–0.5mm), measure the time needed for it to go down an additional 0.04 in. (1mm). Replace if the measured time is not between 4–20 seconds.

There are adjustment screws on the rockets according to RAVE.
The procedure is as follows:
1) Rotate the engine clockwise until No 1 injector lobe is at full lift.
2) Rotate rocker adjusting screw clockwise until the injector plunger is felt to bottom out.
3) Rotate rocket adjusting screw anti-clockwise one complete turn to give plunger the required bump clearance and tighten rocker arm adjusting screw locknut to 16Nm. Ensure the screw does not turn as the locknut is tightened.
4) Carry out the procedure for the remaining 4 rocker arms.
5) After completion of rocker arm adjustment slowly rotate engine clockwise 2 complete turns by hand to ensure that no injectors are bottoming out on their plungers.

Make sure that the throttle linkage is all there and not damaged/misadjusted, then get a manometer and check your inlet gas pressure. Gas pressure should be 8 inches of water column and stay there running or not.

Carl