Maybe the Clutch Pulley One-Roller Clutch bearing is rusted/frozen up. How handy are you?
See this post of what it takes to remove the Clutch Pulley. Servicematters.com has locked down the link to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. If you are going to DIY you need the SM
Take a look at this post Clutch Fix it will help you remove the front panel and observe if the motor is locked up as you complete the water fill cycle and enter wash/agitate cycle (tumblers rotating).
You will notice the wast basket is spun CCW slow RPM on the initial water fill cycle. In wash cycle the Motor will spin the clutch pulley CW and I feel your Clutch One-Way Roller clutch bearings are froze up causing drive belt squeal.............Rich
Pic of the Clutch pulley removed follow all saftey warnings in the Sm if you can find.
SOURCE: Whirlpool washer fills up; makes LOUD whine/click metal noise
sounds as if you have a bad mootor coupling, part number 285753, easy enough part to change, easier to search on the you tube site for whirlpool motor coupling repair, fo rthe video, then try to explain procedure, but definalty easy enough repair for home owner
SOURCE: Washer does not spin when filled with water. Makes loud noise
It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
SOURCE: washer will fill fill with water but doesn't start wash cycle
it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked
SOURCE: loud squealing sound
It is the pump going bad. There is a tech sheet inside a ziploc bag beneath the control panel. From the front of the machine, lean over it and look just behind the control panel and locate the two silver screws towards the outter sides. Remove those two screws and lift the control panel off. Next to where the water hoses are connected you'll see a ziploc bag with the tech sheet inside. It has instructions on how to put the machine into diagnostics mode. Do this if you want and it should tell you the pump is going bad.
Our GWL11 was making that same noise and I just let it go because the machine still worked and, quite frankly, I had no idea what the heck it could be. Though I'm handy, I've never attempted to fix a washing machine. Boy, I wish I would have researched the issue online sooner.
After spending more time online researching this issue than any person should, it turns out that squealing noise is the pump going bad. A fairly inexpensive (about $75) and easy thing to replace. Should only take 15 minutes or so to change out, even if you've never done it before, and that includes the time to disconnect the hoses and manually bail out the machine. But if you let the problem go the pump will eventually short out and in turn take out the controller board with it, which is about $130+ just for the part, and you'll have to replace both.
We got about a month of use out of the machine with it squealing then one day it just up and quit. It would not power on at all. I did all the unplugging, waiting 30 seconds, plugging back in, etc... and nothing. Sure enoung the pump shorted out and took the controller board with it. I actually just received my new pump Saturday (5/16/09) and replaced it yesterday hoping that would solve the problem, but alas, it still won't turn on. Now I have to buy a new controller board...sigh...
Change the pump now and save yourself some headache and money. If you have a model GWL11 the pump part # is 420325P. Should you need the controller board too, it is part # 420094USP. Good luck!
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