Re: How do I remove the lights in the refrigerator...
This is not really a solution, but good information. this past Just a class action suit was filed against LG for knowing about the light bulb problem and continuing to sell the fridge.
So what are they going to do about it?..Our lights stayed on and started melting the plastic cover. My husband disconnected the lights and now we have no lights for our refridgerator...So what are they going to do about it?..Our lights stayed on and started melting the plastic cover. My husband disconnected the lights and now we have no lights for our refridgerator...
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First unplug the power source, then u have to remove the back plate from freezer section then plug back in the power source and use multi meter to test for 120 volts alternating current at the 2 plug or prong connections at the fan? be care this is a live test
Failure of BLDC Fan Motor at Freezing Compartment. Contents: If there is no fan motor signal for more than 65 sec in operation fan motor. Remarks: Poor motor, hooking to wires of fan, contact of structures to fan, snapping or short circuit of Lead wires.
You have a bad door switch at the top hinge cover. More than likely, a wire has come loose. Can't tell which one since there are 2 of them. You will need to disconnect the wires and check with a ohm meter.
Good luck.
Make sure the lights are going off in the freshfood section. If lights staying on remove bulbs immediately and order new control board located on back of unit.
HI. Testing must be preformed, in order to confirm the damage. The damage is, most likely, internal within one, or both of the switches circuits. follow the procedure below to test both switches.
The interior lights in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switches. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switches for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced. Test each switch individually. replace one, or both, if needed.
NOTE_ The in/out motion dose not confirm a working switch circuit. A failed internal circuit can be damaged, even if the switch is movable,and seems normal. This is why testing is needed. It may look normal, but the internals may be damaged. The light is only controlled by your door switches. there are no other problem areas, in your case. the switches are the culprit. Check the wiring, as well. It could be as simple as a loose wire on the switch contacts. as well.
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