[email protected] my bionaire bch9221 120 volt heater does not produce heat anymore.....i'm thinking that maybe an element within the unit is burned out.

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I should like to hope I have your answer.
If yours is like most U.S. model, it is called a 220 volt unit.
That is not really 220 volts, it is really 2 separate 110 volt units.
What that means is, there are actually 2 separate 110 volt hot wires to the water heater, usually one hot wire is black, and the other hot wire is red.
One is for the upper heating unit, one is for the lower heating unit. Perhaps your lower unit has blown the circuit breaker for that line.
I mean the circuit breaker in the main fuse box/circuit breaker box.
Did you test the lower wiring to see if the hot wire is hot?
If it is hot, be sure to test the ground wire, and also the wiring between the bottom and the top of the heater inside it.
God bless your efforts.

The Bionaire BCH9224-CN is a ceramic space heater, one of apparently 4 related units. The 9224 is the tallest in the family and I also have the shorter BCH9212-CN. They are electric so I have no idea what all this talk about 'gas', 'pilot light' and 'flame' is. My 9224 failed in a way that seems quite common with Bionaire space heaters in general, namely, first the smell of burning electrical insulation, then a snap or pop accompanied by a flash of light out the lower side, and then no more heat. It is possible that the original questioner had this happen but wasn't around to witness it. Now it is possible that the failure is in the electrical control board but in my case (and in fact I'm betting for many or most of the Bionaire failures) it was a wire running to the ceramic heating block (element) that fried at the connection to the ceramic element. I would say it is very unlikely the failures of the Bionaires are in the ceramic heater blocks themselves, and in fact the 9224 and the 9212 (and I assume many or most of the other Bionaires) actually have two ceramic blocks/elements fastened together, one being used for the 750 watt heating and both for the 1500 watt heating. The central wire running to the blocks must support enough current (about 12.5 amps) for both of the blocks, whereas the wires to the individual blocks need half that (about 6.25 amps). In my 9224 unit the weak spot was clearly where the central, common wire was connected to the spade-like connector that was crimped onto the central, common tab of the ceramic block pair. At first I thought I'd just toss the thing but then I opened it up, did the autopsy and repaired it by replacing the 3 wires from the circuit board to the ceramic blocks with 14 gauge wire, and made the connection of the wires to the three soft metal (tin or tin alloy?) tabs of the ceramic blocks by carefully drilling holes in the tabs and bolting eye, crimp-type wire connectors to the tabs using small screws. Oddly enough I opened up the smaller unit (the BCH9212-CN) and it has the same ceramic element pair but no indication of burnt wires.

These Bionaires (including your 9212 and its taller version, the 9224) have a small temperature safety relay mounted slightly above the ceramic heating elements. Its purpose it to shut off the elements if they overheat, which I would assume would happen if the fan stops working or possibly if the outlet to the front becomes blocked (and these ceramic elements, which are like a radiator core, do get a lot of dust accumulated on the inside which will block air flow). The sensor is a small unit with exposed contacts and if these contacts open (driven by the temperature sensor connected to them) or if these contacts do not have good contact (say by dirt or oxidation build up that makes them effectively fully or partially open) then the ceramic elements will not work. My best suggestion to explain your problem is that the contacts on that safety switch became dirty during storage. The only way to verify that (and possibly repair the unit) requires taking the outside shell off and cleaning the contacts of the safety switch with either a small, fine file (like the old ignition files) or maybe fine emery cloth.

I'm afraid the answer to your question is no it probably won't fix your heater. I think your element is bad or it should have worked when you jumpered it. Sorry I don't have better news. Thank you

your element may have metered out but still may not getting as hot as it used too found this on my hot water cylinder, the hot water was only warm not hot like it should be so pulled out it meterwd fine but when i placed a new one in the cylinder and let the water heat up it was a lot hotter than it had been and now i can't get out of the shower but it was the element not heating as it should have and thats just old age i bet i don't run as hot when im old and it was nearly thirty year old heater, if it was new from 1984 it sounds like its had a full life i don't really expect heater to last more than thirty years well really more than twenty years anyway and a heater from the eighties couldn't have never been that efficient and **** a bit of power too i'd upgrade to at least a 2000 model heater you'll actually save money by buying a newer one!

first, make sure dryer is unplugged before removing cover. locate you heating element and with a multi meter or volt meter put dial on ohms setting or the setting that beeps when leads are touching together. your heating element looks like a coil of wire. remove the wires connected to each end of heating element. take the leads from volt meter and place the lead on one end of the coil and the other end on the opposite. if you do not hear a continuous beeping sound or no reading on your meter it is bad. if you do it's not. check internal clogg or the thermal fuse located near exhaust duct. the heating element has to be replaced. [email protected]

I am assuming this is an electric wall mount heater, if the unit is drawing current then it should relate to heat as 3.41 btu is = 1 watt.
take the voltage reading and the amp draw and mutiply them to determine the wattage eg; 240 volts x 20.8 amps = 5000 watts = 17,050 btu. if the unit is fan assited and you are drawing 1 to 2 amps this would indicate the fan is runnning without the heat element being energized hope this helps

I'm not an expert, but I have two of these units that are working fine.

The on/off switch (the top switch) has a light in it that illuminates when the heater is on and heating. If this light comes on and there is no heat, then the element is probably burned out.

The heater has a safety switch that prevents the unit from working if it is not upright. If the heater was stored for any length of time on its side, the safety switch might have stuck in the off position. Unplug the heater and with the heater upright, try shaking it or slapping it firmly with your hand to se if this fixes the problem.

If none of this works, then as sunmasc says, the thermostat is bad.