Freezer intermittantly warms and blue temp setting lights on inside of frige door and the top interior light for frige do not always work. Purchaed used and did not notice lack of blue light until several weeks had passed...only noticed when the light was on yesterday for a short while. I thought maybe a disconnected wire to that area but the filter indicator ligh has always been on (green). Any suggestions as to how to fix? thanks.

ok,1st check on fridge side toward upper back of the top and feel for air coming thru, and there is another one down possibly behind crisper .I had this same deal. Had to do total defrost,, put food in cooler,, theres two blower fans in these types of fridges,,one in the bottom back,, and one in the back of the frezzer,, I used an old hair dryer and let it blow warm to top interior of frezzer,, careful not to let any cords hang/drop in any water!!,ok once done dry out as much water as possible, turn fridge on set both controls to 4,when fridge kicks on do the feel test,, you may need to close the frezzer door, air should be felt near top inside of fridge,if so than shut fridge side and feel inside frezzer near bottom and air should be felt,, side-by-side need to circulate air from frezzer to fridge, then back to frezzer

Hi,
You are probably right that it is always running. This is because the thermostat/sensor has gone bad. The fridge adjusts by a door that allows air to come from the freezer to the fridge side. Therefore this will still work...
You will need to replace or have the thermostat replaced....

Heatman101

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

I am having the same problem does anyone have a solution?

The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

((If the switch is ok, and it passes the test, simply replace the fan)).

If the cabinet is warm inside it is a failed circulation fan, failed defrost causing the evaporator to freeze up, or it needs a refrigerant gas top up.

Beeping is just an alarm. It may be because of the more serious issues listed above but can also be caused by a failing door gasket, the door being left ajar (kids are famous for this) or the door has been left open too long deciding what to have for dinner.

I hope that answers all 8 of you :>D

Help here

https://www.google.com/search?q=fisher+and+paykel+fridge+beeping+with+door+shut

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just about all friges work off the frezer .the evap fan moves the air fromthe frezer to the frig.so you would here fan noise.i dont know your brand but on most frezers if you turn the frezer temp to the highest setting thats acomplished by keeping the air from going to the frige.hence warmer frig temps .also make sure fan on out side back is working and condenser is clean.again turn air damper control from frezer to frige to lowest setting .somthimes this could be in frig section.God bless ,tom

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

Hi -
I haven't solved my problem, yet, but i have determined that it's beyond my scope and will require a pro's visit to my house.

thanks for the line.
b

This is almost a word for word common problem. On frost free fridge freezers of this type all cooling is generated through the freezer side and is merely forced into the fridge side through airflow. Therefore if you have a problem with the fridge you have a problem with the freezer section. The most likely cause is that the coil is frozen up. We would always suggest defrosting unit overnight in case it was simply a door left ajar being the cause of the fault. If the unit then pulls the fridge temp down and it was not the door ajar then you probably have a defrost problem (heater or defrost thermostat, or defrost timer). If it fails to pull the fridge temp down on restarting then it could be the fan or part of the defrost circuit or even possible the cooling circuit. The normal outcome after defrosting is that the temp will drop in the fridge due to air circulation improved, which will probably remain cool for 2-3 weeks until the coil becomes frozen again. On either result I would contact an engineer on the 2nd failure occurrs so that the engineer can establish the exact cause. Hope this helps.