SOURCE: freezer fan frosted again
it is not soposed to have two inserts one is the inlet air (controlled ) the other returns air to freezer . when fan has stopped check it for voltage if it has voltage replace the evaporator motor (fan).
SOURCE: HAIER HTE18WAA
The thermostat that controls when the compressor needs to run has probaly quit.
SOURCE: freezer cold, fridge warm
The small cooling fan in the freezer compartment that sends chilled air to the food side is defective and needs replacement. Sometimes that are only frozen stuck.
When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect. If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply. Thank you.
SOURCE: HOLE IN FROST FREE FREEZER COMPARTMENT
try aerosol can of spray polystyrene...smooth over, before it dries, with a hot pallette knife
SOURCE: Ice is forming on the back wall of my freezer
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
I have found the best way to defrost my not quite frost free fridge-freezer is to empty the freezer compartment contents into the fridge and switch it off overnight, leaving the fridge door shut and the freezer door open. By stacking all the frozen food together as tightly as possible, ideally wrapped in something to help insulate them (such as newspapers) they stay cold for a long time. In the morning I get in my scruffy clothes and wipe up the puddles caused by the visible frost in the freezer and any puddles formed underneath the appliance. However this is only half the story. To ensure all the frosting has been removed from the hidden parts of the appliance I get my hair dryer and blast warm air into all appropriate crevices from inside the appliance and from behind it.
If there is no cooling
at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that
the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it
powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is
seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas
within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen
in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and
fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours
for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost
timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting
could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the
blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty.
Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of
these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts
if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and
make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2
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