Rubber/Plastic ring seal replacement

Take the rubber ring out of the lid.
Wash it with warm soapy water.
Dry it.
Oil it with vegetable oil.
Now do you see how the rubber ring has a groove around it on the inside? Push your thumb into the groove and work it around the ring, you're trying to spread the rubber V out.

Put it back in the lid and take it for a test run.

In the future store your cooker with the lid upside down on top, keeping it closed will ruin the seal.

If it still won't seal replace the rubber parts, you can get a kit for your cooker from presto.

Regards

TickMagnet.

If you mean the drain valve, then buy garden hose cap at home center.
Cap will have rubber washer that seals tank.
If drain valve is plastic, the cap may not thread on without sanding down end of plastic drain valve.
Otherwise replace drain valve, which is simple if drain valve is brass, but can be difficult if drain valve is plastic.
Turn off power to water heater: Electric: turn off circuit breaker. Gas: turn knob to pilot.
Turn off water, open bathtub spigot on Hot side, drain water heater, remove drain valve with wrench.
If plastic drain valve breaks while being removed, then 'gently' break out broken part using hammer and big screwdriver.
Buy new drain valve at box store in water heater department.
Put teflon tape on new drain valve threads.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

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if the thermostat came with a new rubber o ring that fits around it, then no the plastic housing shouldnt need to be sealed, but if there is no rubber o ring yes seal it or it will leak... as far as distilled water, no just reg tap water is fine...remember to put anti-sieze on your bolts before you put them back in.. or they may not come out if you need to replace the thermostat in the future... hope this helps

Once disposal rusts out, it needs replacement.
Usually if sink basket seal is broken or if dishwasher attachment is leaking, you can feel water near top of disposal.
Use paper towel at top to see if that area is wet.
If top area is dry, then water is coming from inside disposal, and disposal is rusted out.

If sink seal is still good, we used to buy same brand disposal and re-attach to same sink basket. That's the quick fix.
If this is inside your home, you probably want to install new sink basket that comes with disposal.

To install new disposal, also buy container of plumber's putty to seal sink basket.
Remove disposal.
Clean off old putty on sink. It will chip off easily.
Apply finger-thick amount of plumbers putty to sink opening.
Set disposal sink basket into putty and push down.
Tighten screws on bottom of sink basket.
Wipe away excess plumber's putty from sink so it looks nice and smooth.

Before lifting disposal into place, attach electric wires and attach dishwasher hose to disposal.
Use hammer and screwdriver to remove steel blocker located inside dishwasher stem ... the blocker is left in place if no dishwasher hose is attached.
Disposals can be different: But here's the usual sequence:
Lift disposal with one hand and hold level. Push up strong while rotating attachment ring until ring grabs bottom of sink basket.
If you cannot lift disposal with one hand while rotating attachment ring with other hand, use small bottle jack from auto-parts store. And put piece of wood between bottle jack and aluminum disposal so disposal doesn't break.

Here's how to handle tubular pipes below sink:
Any tubular pipe joint that moved while removing or installing disposal, has to be taken apart, cleaned and re-attached.
If washers are plastic, then clean and re-use.
If washers are rubber, then replace each washer with new rubber washer.
When reattaching tubular pipes, apply generous amount of rectorseal over each plastic or rubber washer for first-time seal of tubular pipes.

Long story short, it will leak from under the screw cap (rarely) and from the rubber ring around the puncture pin. The grounds clog the metal filter and creates pressure that escapes from under that rubber ring. I cut a thin styrofoam plate to fit under the screw cap. It's really snug for the first few times, then it will loosen up. Second is to tighten the seal between the top of the 'my cup' and that rubber seal. I used 2 styrofoam rings that sit between the 'my cup' and the hard plastic it sits on when you fit it in the hole. It bring the cup like 1/8 inch higher to the pin and increases that seal. I made many cups after that and it has never leaked. I'm looking for a good rubber ring to fit around the 'my cup' to replace the rings for the seat.

I love the Dyson (DC07), but after 7 or 8 years it lost suction and needed some attention beyond filter cleaning. After much online research I found the few bits of advice that for me were the holy grail. After all of the standard stuff, clear clogs, clean filters etc..... In this order: 1) Remove & empty the canister, ***important****-leave the canister bottom lid open. 2) remove the three star screws at the top of the canister. It'll take a bit of pressure to pull the top up, there's a rubber seal. When you pull it up there will be a rod running down into the canister, leave it be, just pull up the top high enough to clear out any debris. 3) Put the top back on aligning the screws, when you lower it make sure the bottom of the rod engages with the hole at the bottom center of the canister, this is why you left the bottom lid open. Put the three star screws back in. 4) Turn the canister upside down, lid open, and keeping in mind this is thin plastic, gently tug upwards on the four fins that surround the bottom rubber seal. This part is held in by friction, so work your way around the four fins gently pulling until you work the ring they're connected to free. This will give you access to the inside of the canister. 5) remove the round perforated section by tugging upwards on it, set it aside with the fin part. 6) Take the canister to a laundry tub or large sink and holding it bottom up fill it with hot/warm water. Grasping the center section shake it vigorously and turn it upside down while shaking and a bunch of sh*t will come out. Repeat several times. 7) Dry thoroughly, you might use a hairdryer held to the center tube, but only if you can switch off the heat and use air only. Make sure its 200% dry, water will kill your machine 8) clean and replace the round perforated section 9) replace the fin section, I'd suggest pulling the round rubber part off of the fin part and setting it in place on the canister first, then follow with the plastic fin part. If you don't do it this way the rubber won't seat properly and the bottom lid won't close. 10) Close the lid, replace the canister, and staaaaaart suckin like it's brand new.

If the usual clog clearing and filter cleaning doesn;t work-> I love the Dyson (DC07), but after 7 or 8 years it lost suction and needed some attention beyond filter cleaning. After much online research I found the few bits of advice that for me were the holy grail. After all of the standard stuff, clear clogs, clean filters etc..... In this order: 1) Remove & empty the canister, ***important****-leave the canister bottom lid open. 2) remove the three star screws at the top of the canister. It'll take a bit of pressure to pull the top up, there's a rubber seal. When you pull it up there will be a rod running down into the canister, leave it be, just pull up the top high enough to clear out any debris. 3) Put the top back on aligning the screws, when you lower it make sure the bottom of the rod engages with the hole at the bottom center of the canister, this is why you left the bottom lid open. Put the three star screws back in. 4) Turn the canister upside down, lid open, and keeping in mind this is thin plastic, gently tug upwards on the four fins that surround the bottom rubber seal. This part is held in by friction, so work your way around the four fins gently pulling until you work the ring they're connected to free. This will give you access to the inside of the canister. 5) remove the round perforated section by tugging upwards on it, set it aside with the fin part. 6) Take the canister to a laundry tub or large sink and holding it bottom up fill it with hot/warm water. Grasping the center section shake it vigorously and turn it upside down while shaking and a bunch of sh*t will come out. Repeat several times. 7) Dry thoroughly, you might use a hairdryer held to the center tube, but only if you can switch off the heat and use air only. Make sure its 200% dry, water will kill your machine 8) clean and replace the round perforated section 9) replace the fin section, I'd suggest pulling the round rubber part off of the fin part and setting it in place on the canister first, then follow with the plastic fin part. If you don't do it this way the rubber won't seat properly and the bottom lid won't close. 10) Close the lid, replace the canister, and staaaaaart suckin like it's brand new.

Bosch Nexxt 500 WFMC3301 Front Load Washer how
to get the metal ring back on.
This video will show you how to change a door seal on this Bosch front loader washing machine and also how to replace the metal rings.
we have all bosch repairs in our channel.
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It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
  
  
• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  
  
• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
  
  

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
  
  
• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
  
  
• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.