Probably locked rotor. This happens sumetims when the connecting rod breaks or seizes up on the crank shaft. Seperate your power cord ar some point so that you can put an amp meter around just one of the hot wires. It should be 10.2 amps maximum. I think you will see it spike to 25 amps for 2 to 3 seconds when the compressor tries to start. That almost immediately kicks out the overload. This compressor is not rebuildable. so it will require a new one if it is what I think.
Testimonial: "thanks , still need your help"
thanks, I will do that tomorrow .I sure hope your wrong about the rebuild. I'm a 41 year old college student with wife and 3 daughters at home. I'm getting a A.A.S. in hvac/r, the freezer was sgiven to me when it stopped working at my work. They never once did preventive maintenance on it. they were gonna scrap it. anyways it is semi- hermetic, its Model # is KALB 015E CAV 232. Are you sure and if so why?
I am a bit curious on this one. Possibly it is a bit older than I thought. The compressor model number is a semi-hermetic. It is rebuildable. However in 25 years of selling new and used True refrigeration as well as replacing compressors myself for 25 years, I have never known a local technician to ever rebuild one. Almost every Copeland semi hermetic compressor available at refrigeration repair parts companies are rebuilt. The new ones go to manufacturers.These compressors carry a core charge, meaning they want the casting back so they can rebuild them. I will find out tomorrow if rebuild kits are available. I still recommend you check the amps, just to verify that it is a locked rotor. If you verify a locked rotor, this may be a great time to tear into a Coplematic. Normally, when I buy out a restaurant or grocery store and get refrigeration equipment with a locked rotor compressor, unless the cabinet is really pristine, we scrap the whole unit. In most cases the freezer you have will resale for about $1500.00 if the cabinet is really pristine. The cost to change out a semihermetic, doing the labor myself is around $900.00. You have to ask yourself at some point do you try to save it or put that kind of money and time into it for $500 to $600 in profit. There is also another down side and that is, how badly did the compressor burn out and why? If it was a total meltdown in the motor coils there will be a lot of debris in the refrigerant lines. If it locked up because it was running with low or no refrigerant (freon), it may well have leaks in the system that will also require expensive repairs. An evaporator coil can easily cost $400.00 plus time labor and refrigerant. When I started my business over 25 years ago, I tried to save every piece of refrigeration equipment I got my hands on. I agree its hard to throw something away if it can be repaired, but choose your battles carefully they can really leave you disappointed. Please keep in touch, I am interested in your situation and I wish you the best.
I did some checking with True MFG today and they told me that this model freezer has had a tin can compressor for as far back as he could find records. That is what was confusing to me. Since you have a semi hermetic Copeland, someone has done a shadetree replacement or it is a very old unit. I found valve body rebuild kits for the unit but nowhere could I find a crank, piston or motor winding kit. The correct sealed unit would cost you around $350.00 providing everything else is good. They are currently using Aspera or Tecumseh compressors
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well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage
I should have checked my supply V, but I did check S
did that twice sorry
did it wrong also, please look at the coments part of this page
it has digital defrost. so u think it was changed
well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage
gnd7
2 days ago
well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage
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