True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer GDIM-49NT Logo
Anonymous Posted on Sep 28, 2010

Replaced run cap, motor windings ohm out good, condenser fans work. when i power up unit the compressor overload trips after 5-6 seconds

  • 5 more comments 
  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    I should have checked my supply V, but I did check S

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    did that twice sorry

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    did it wrong also, please look at the coments part of this page

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    it has digital defrost. so u think it was changed

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage

  • Anonymous Oct 03, 2010

    gnd7
    2 days ago
    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage

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  • Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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Probably locked rotor. This happens sumetims when the connecting rod breaks or seizes up on the crank shaft. Seperate your power cord ar some point so that you can put an amp meter around just one of the hot wires. It should be 10.2 amps maximum. I think you will see it spike to 25 amps for 2 to 3 seconds when the compressor tries to start. That almost immediately kicks out the overload. This compressor is not rebuildable. so it will require a new one if it is what I think.

Testimonial: "thanks , still need your help"

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Sep 29, 2010

    thanks, I will do that tomorrow .I sure hope your wrong about the rebuild. I'm a 41 year old college student with wife and 3 daughters at home. I'm getting a A.A.S. in hvac/r, the freezer was sgiven to me when it stopped working at my work. They never once did preventive maintenance on it. they were gonna scrap it. anyways it is semi- hermetic, its Model # is KALB 015E CAV 232. Are you sure and if so why?

  • Anonymous Sep 30, 2010

    I am a bit curious on this one. Possibly it is a bit older than I thought. The compressor model number is a semi-hermetic. It is rebuildable. However in 25 years of selling new and used True refrigeration as well as replacing compressors myself for 25 years, I have never known a local technician to ever rebuild one. Almost every Copeland semi hermetic compressor available at refrigeration repair parts companies are rebuilt. The new ones go to manufacturers.These compressors carry a core charge, meaning they want the casting back so they can rebuild them. I will find out tomorrow if rebuild kits are available. I still recommend you check the amps, just to verify that it is a locked rotor. If you verify a locked rotor, this may be a great time to tear into a Coplematic. Normally, when I buy out a restaurant or grocery store and get refrigeration equipment with a locked rotor compressor, unless the cabinet is really pristine, we scrap the whole unit. In most cases the freezer you have will resale for about $1500.00 if the cabinet is really pristine. The cost to change out a semihermetic, doing the labor myself is around $900.00. You have to ask yourself at some point do you try to save it or put that kind of money and time into it for $500 to $600 in profit. There is also another down side and that is, how badly did the compressor burn out and why? If it was a total meltdown in the motor coils there will be a lot of debris in the refrigerant lines. If it locked up because it was running with low or no refrigerant (freon), it may well have leaks in the system that will also require expensive repairs. An evaporator coil can easily cost $400.00 plus time labor and refrigerant. When I started my business over 25 years ago, I tried to save every piece of refrigeration equipment I got my hands on. I agree its hard to throw something away if it can be repaired, but choose your battles carefully they can really leave you disappointed. Please keep in touch, I am interested in your situation and I wish you the best.

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2010

    I did some checking with True MFG today and they told me that this model freezer has had a tin can compressor for as far back as he could find records. That is what was confusing to me. Since you have a semi hermetic Copeland, someone has done a shadetree replacement or it is a very old unit. I found valve body rebuild kits for the unit but nowhere could I find a crank, piston or motor winding kit. The correct sealed unit would cost you around $350.00 providing everything else is good. They are currently using Aspera or Tecumseh compressors

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I have a Delfield freezer model 6125s compresser won't stay running

If the compressor on your Delfield 6125S freezer is not staying running, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things you can check:
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  3. Check the compressor motor: The compressor motor could be faulty and not able to start or stay running. You can check the motor by using a multimeter to test the winding resistance.
  4. Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils could be dirty or clogged with dust, which can cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. Clean the condenser coils with a brush or compressed air to remove any dust or debris.
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I have model TFU12MOAW3 upright freezer and it does not run. I tested the voltage from the freezer control to the compressor relay and I have 120 volts. Could tell me how I can test this relay (P/N...

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The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.

to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.

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We have a failed condenser fan motor which was a 1/12 horsepower 1300 RPM - 115v We got a blower motor replacement from our vendor which was a 1/20 horsepower 1500RPM - 115v The motor is tripping out on...

Motor usually trips out as it is overloaded. Check the rated amp draw on the replacement motor verses the OEM motor. OEM motors usually are built a little different to meet certain conditions in their design. You may need to get one. Also, make sure your condenser is very clean so as to not cause overloading the motor. Could have been the reason for the first one to fail.
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Freezer motor cuts in and out. Runs for about thirty seconds at a time. Now have red low temp light on and everything is defrosting. Sides of freezer used to be very warm and are now cold.

Good day,
Some kind of compressor problem. If it will run a true 30 seconds then it is either the start relay mounted on the side of the compressor hanging up and not releasing after the compressor starts or the main windings in the compressor are starting to short, causing the compressor to draw too much current followed by the protective overload shutting the compressor down.
The relay is pressed onto the compressor pins and can be removed.

A parts house should be able to test it for you. If bad, replace. If it tests good then the problem is internal to the compressor and would need the attention of a qualified tech.

P.S. If the unit is under 5 years of age, leave it alone and call for factory service. It may or may not be covered but if so it would be necessary to preserve the balance of the 5 year warranty.
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Tripping breaker

Hi, this is not a good sign when a unit trips a breaker. I can tell you whats causing this without having you check every thing on the unit. The compressor has gone out and drawing what we call locked rotor amps. This is what happens when one fails, it is the only part on the unit to draw enough amperage to trip a breaker. To confirm this, you can pull the unit away from the wall and unplug it. Remove the lower panel that will expose the condenser fan motor and coil, and the problem compressor. On the side of the compressor where the wires go into it, you will see a metal strap that is hooked around a black terminal cover. Remove it by using a screw driver lifting one end off. Now the cap will pull straight off. You will see a small round overload relay there and it just sets there with a metal clip that holds it on. Remove it also and it will have a blk wire attached to a compressor terminal, that is marked C for common. You will have 2 more for the other terminals, R for run, and S for start. Just pull them off. Tape the ends of the wires up so they don't touch anything and don't worry where they go as this compressor will be done. After you have done this, Plug it in and set the control to cool. Everything now should work as far as light and fans, and the breaker will not trip with the faulty compressor out of the circuit. It would be much cheaper to buy a new or good used unit then to replace this compressor. This has to be done by an expert on this kind of unit. It was probably shorted to ground a internal burn out. Sorry to give this news to you, but this happens. Keep me posted on what you have done.
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Mar 14, 2010 • Freezers
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Freezer is warm, not freezing at all, fans run

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Other causes can be a total loss of refrigerant, or a compressor that won't run.
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