Whats the difference between jl audio 500.1 amp & jl audio 500/1v2? why is the price range so different?

What is problem(Message me on facebook"Aaron Trende"

try pacparts.com.

its real simple. your under powered.

your W6s RMS at 500 watts EACH and your sending em 250RMS (half what they need)
The 'pop' your hearing is the failure to supply enough power to draw the cone back in time and collides with the next wave of sound.

prove it?
drive a single W6 with your 500/1 bridged.
i'll bet your pop goes away.

long term, get another 500/1 or jump up to a 1000/1v2.

I also HIGHLY recommend JL's in-line audio cleaner. If i recall it was like 60 bucks but waaaay worth it. makes sure that theres no distortion in the source input to your amp(s), which...keeps your subs from trying to reproduce transients and delivers only clear signal to your subs void of all clipping signals. Its an active electronic compoent.


PS: if you are pushing 12W6's, i had the same setup once...I had W3s connected to my 500/1 and upgraded to the W6s...had the same issue your describing, and then got the 1000/1. happy ending.

The low voltage light would indicate that there is not enough power reaching the amplifier through the power wire. Are you using 4awg or bigger wire? Is the amp grounded well? Does this happen all the time or just at high volume?

Try checking your power and ground connections and ensure that you are using the correct size of wire.

I've had similar problems, usually for me it ends up being a bad ground.

1000/1v2 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Specifications:
　 1000/1v2

Rated Power:
1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

THD at Rated Power:
<0.05% @ 4 ohm

S/N Ratio:
>95dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)

Frequency Response:
5 Hz - 250 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor:
>500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz


According to the chart your amp is only stable down to 1.5 Ohms, so running at .75 Ohms the noise you are hearing is the amp clipping (running more power than it can handle at low ohms)
I would suggest wiring it in series, or you could adjust the gain on the amp until the popping goes away.

Hope this helps.

If the amp is a JL 500/1v2, it has a sensing switch which enables it to sense voltage, instead of running a remote wire. If this switch is set to on, and you have a remote turn on wire running to the amp........this can happen. I own one of these, and made that mistake myself.

Yes it possible that the inputs have been damaged on the circuit board of the amp. If the amp has hi level inputs you could try running a speaker wire input to it and see if it works. You might try another pair of rca cables to.

its probably wires touchin or the ground not connected well with fat enough wire. i would try to rewire and do everything all over again because one wire or fuse is messing up i had t he same probelm. its the red light on the amp is ur amp shut off or ur warning light?

The audio amplifier IC´s maybe are fried