Doesn't respond my MV540 doesn't displaym but it's power supply is good and it's switching system is good condition when i switch on it(with out connect to the PC) the LED turn green, 2 or 3 seconds later it turn orange(it means the switching supply is better).when i connect to the PC the LED Turn green and it blink please help me to solve this problem

Interior Lamps
The interior lighting consist of the following 2 groups. This first group includes lamps that may not be dimmed.
• The cargo lamp
• The dome lamps
• The reading lamps
• The vanity mirror lamps

Vanity Mirror Lamps
The inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit of the body control module (BCM) provides battery positive voltage to each vanity mirror lamp. When the vanity mirror cover on the sunshade is opened, a switch closes to provide a ground circuit and the vanity lamp illuminates.

Battery Rundown Protection/Inadvertent Power
The body control module (BCM) inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit provides battery positive voltage to all of the interior reading lamps and both visor vanity mirror lamps. In the event that any of these lamps were to remain illuminated for a period of more than 20 minutes with the ignition switch in the OFF position, the BCM will deactivate the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit to prevent a total battery discharge condition. Only when the ignition switch is cycled back to the RUN position will the BCM reset the internal timer and reactivate the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit.
The BCM also utilizes the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit as a courtesy lamp request signal circuit when none of the lamps in the circuit are illuminated. When a lamp switch is activated, the BCM receives the request for lamp illumination and switches to supplying voltage to the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit.


Just from reading this ,i wouldn't think this a fuse problem . The BCM has main fuse's for battery voltage supply . The light's your having problems with don't have a separate fuse .

Hooking up a factory or some other professional type scan tool an checking the BCM for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's is the first place i would start my diagnostic's .
DTC B1480
The body control module (BCM) supplies battery positive voltage to the reading lamps and both visor vanity mirror lamps. In the event that any of these lamps were to remain illuminated for more than 20 minutes with the ignition switch in the OFF position, the BCM will deactivate the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit to prevent a total battery discharge condition.

Then follow the diagnostic procedure test's in the service repair manual .
Conditions for Running the DTC
The battery voltage must be between 9.0-16.0 volts.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
• The inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit to the reading lamps and both visor vanity mirror lamps is shorted to ground for more than 1 second.
• There is a loss of the rear fuse block TBC 4 battery supply voltage to the BCM for more than 1 second while one or more of the lamps in the inadvertent power circuit have been activated.

Connector End View Reference: Lighting Systems Connector End Views or Body Control System Connector End Views in Body Control System
1
Did you perform the Lighting System Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems
2
Inspect the TBC 4 fuse in the rear fuse block.
Is the fuse good?
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 3
3
Test the inadvertent power courtesy lamps supply voltage circuit for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 5
4
Test the TBC 4 battery positive supply voltage circuit at the body wiring harness extension harness connector at the body control module (BCM) for battery voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is battery voltage present?
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 6
5
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connectors of the BCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 8
6
Inspect for poor connections at the body wiring harness extension harness connectors. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7
7
Replace the body wiring harness extension harness to the BCM. Refer to Body Control Module Body Wiring Harness Extension Harness Replacement in Body Control System.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 9
--
8
Important: Perform the setup procedure for the BCM.
Replace the BCM. Refer to Body Control Module Replacement in Body Control System.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 9
--
9
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?
Go to Step 2
System OK


Fuse Block - Rear
Beneath the left rear seat

You would need to test the electrical circuit to find out what this could be . Videos on youtube for basic electrical trouble shooting !
2

Are all the power windows inoperative?
YES - Go to Step 3
NO - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
3

Disconnect the driver window switch C2 harness connector.
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Probe the power window switch voltage supply circuit of the harness connector with a test lamp that is connected to ground.

Does the test lamp illuminate?
Yes - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 5
Connect the test lamp between the power window switch voltage supply circuit and the ground circuit of the harness connector.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 8

5

Test for an open or a short to ground in the power window switch voltage supply circuits of the driver window and front passenger window switches. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 10

6
Test the power window master switch lockout signal circuit for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 7

There is a circuit breaker for power windows .
Power Window System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:
?€¢
Driver Door Switch (DDS)

?€¢
Passenger Door Switch (PDS)

?€¢
Body Control Module (BCM)

?€¢
Rear door power window switches

?€¢
Power window motors in each of the doors

?€¢
PWR WDO Circuit Breaker

Power Window System Controls
The power window system will operate anytime the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) system is active or when the ignition switch is in the ACCY or ON position.
The driver master control switches are integrated into the DDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the DDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the DDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist and during window motor operation the DDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation.
The DDS controls the passenger window by a serial message to the PDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the PDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the PDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist, and during window motor operation the PDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation. (Scan tool support is available for this system
Check this circuit breaker
RETAINED ACCSRY PRW BRKR 30 amp. located in the left instrument panel fuse box . if the breaker is good check power B+ at the drivers door switch . connector 1 terminal b yellow wire . Sometimes the wires inside the rubber boot coming from body to door break .

Circuit breakers rearly fail an they reset them selfs . You could have broken wires inside the flex boot from the body to the drivers door . Taking the door panel off an check for B+ voltage to the switch an a good ground would be a good test to do. But first reading up on how these systems work would be good thing to do.
Power Window System Controls (RPO A31/AN3/DL3)
The power window system will operate anytime the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) system is active or when the ignition switch is in the ACCY or ON position.
The driver master control switches are integrated into the DDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the DDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the DDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist and during window motor operation the DDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation.
The DDS controls the passenger window through a GMLAN message to the PDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the PDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the PDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist, and during window motor operation the PDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation. (Scan tool support is available for this system)

Rear Passenger Power Window Operation (RPO A31/AN3/DL3)
The body control module (BCM) monitors the window UP/DOWN command from the DDS. When the rear window UP or DOWN command is received, the BCM sends a signal to the appropriate rear window switch. The rear window switches continuously monitor the up and down signal circuits, if no function is being commanded, the signal voltage is at approximately B+ voltage. If the UP or DOWN function is commanded, the BCM signal voltage drops approximately 5 volts and the appropriate rear window switch will then command the window in the UP or DOWN direction.
DTC B3819 00: Left Rear Window Up Control Circuit
DTC B3820 00: Left Rear Window Down Control Circuit
DTC B3822 00: Right Rear Window Up Control Circuit
DTC B3823 00: Right Rear Window Down Control Circuit

Having the vehicle checked for DTC'S mite be a good idea .

Sounds like you might have a partial power supply failure. Try unplugging the power supply from everything. Ther should be a switch on the back that is red and says something like 115/220 just flip that switch over to 220 and wait 5 minutes then switch it back to 115 and replug everything in and then try it. If it doesn't work then unplug everything again and let it sit for about 30 minutes (this resets the power supply) and reconnect the wires and if that doesn't work try getting a new power supply. In partial PCB (Power Supply Board) failures the problem is that trere isn't enough power going to the system to start up so sometimes resetting the PCB will fix it temporary. You should get a new one anyway. that one will fail completely soon. Good luck!

Maybe I am missing somethtg here ... you press the start switch and one of 2 things happens - the bike starts or it doesn't. If it does, your start switch is definitely good. If it doesn't ... well there are a couple things to consider. Are you in gear? Will not start in gear unless the clutch is pulled in. But, if the clutch is pulled in and you are in gear and the side stand is down, it will not start. So, if you move the side stand up, you are in gear and you have the clutch pulled in and it doesn't start ... well ... could be the key is not on (silly but true) and/or the 'kill switch" may be in the off position causing your bike to not start. If the clutch is pulled in, the side stand is up and you are in neutral and the kill switch is in the run position and the key is on - (or some other very similar arrangement as I have described) your Shadow should start. Nothing here has ruled out a bad switch nor, for that matter, a good switch.

You bike will still not start - so what else to look at/for. How is the battery? Have you checked it recently? Your battery MIGHT still be the original in which case I would be suspect of it being 10 years old. Maybe you or a previous owner has replaced it ... still, have you checked it? You will find it under the seat.

Battery good and still will not start? Find the start solenoid. With a volt meter, measure the voltage at each of the large terminals. One shold be 12 volts (battery side) the other should be zero volts (starter side). You will check the smaller terminals later . Key Off? No volts on smaller terms. With everything in a normal start condition (key on, bike in neutral, kill switch in run position), measure the voiltage on the other large terminal on the start solenoid. Should be zero. Press the start button. Do you get voltage? No voltage = the solenoid is either not receiving power to energise or it is energised but not making connection.

What happens is when you turn on the key you supply power to potentially anything that can be turned on. When you press the start button, you should be powering the start solenoid (an electric operated switch) That should allow power to flow to the starter and start the bike. If all that is happening, I would suspect the starter. If everything is OK but it doesn't start, suspect the solenoid and lastly ... the switch. I think I would consider jumping power directly to the starter to see if that actually runs before looking at the switch. The actual start switch is pretty tuff compared to other parts of the system.

Let me know what happens ... good luck. I think you will find something simple.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

Try swapping the power button connection with the reset button connection. Then to turn on your computer you will need to press the reset button. If that works you have a faulty power button. Otherwise try using a different PSU. One that you know works. If that doesn't help the motherboard will have to be replaced.

No, don't start shorting anything yet! Here's a picture of the power connector:



Turn on the power switch on the supply, then short the green PS_ON pin (pin 14 or 16 depending on the style plug your supply has) to the black ground pin on either side next to it. DO NOT short across the plug to pin 4.

If the supply is working, this will cause the fan to start up and you can measure output voltages as shown on the diagram. (In fact, this is how the motherboard turns the supply on. The supply provides a 5-volt standby output as long as it's plugged in and turned on to keep the motherboard running to detect the power button. When you press it, the motherboard provides the PS_ON ground to fire everything else up.)

Be aware that without the load provided by the motherboard and other parts of the system, you may be able to measure output voltages (especially if you're using a digital meter) that may not be sufficient to run the system under actual operating conditions. Bad capacitors can cause the voltage to drop when loaded, and this will cause the dead system or other strange troubles. The best way to determine if a power supply is causing problems is by substituting a know good one into the system.

Possible power supply problem--low voltage from master unit or dead batteries at each switch. Good luck!

Batteries in the UPS typically last 3 to 5 years and it depends upon several factors. including the number of times the unit must go on battery power and environmental conditions. There are usually several batteries in the UPS and while the battery voltage may show 13 volts, this may only be a float charge/voltage and a true indication of the battery voltage and condition requires the batteries to be tested under a load. There maybe one battery in a set of batteries that is faulty and causes the whole battery system to fail and indicate a battery fault.

These lower powered and cheaper KVA type UPS are switch over types, when the mains supply fail, the UPS switches over to the battery and inverter in milli-seconds which then supplies mains power but the power waveform is a pseudo sine wave (ie not a true sinewave. A faulty inverter circuit and or flat batteries won’t deliver standby power when the mains supply fails.