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Do you have a multimeter to test the hob, element and fan for continuity? With all three items going out, I suspect a fuse or a burned contact somewhere. I looked on their website for a manual, but the site is unresponsive. Phone and ask if it has fuses?
Faulty thermostat
Faulty wiring
Faulty oven control switch
Thermostats fail more often in the closed position which means your oven will overheat so I'd test the wiring first. You'll need an Ohm meter to do this. TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST, expose the element and switch then trace the wires from the live and neutral terminals on the element back to the switch. If you can't trace them, make a note of their colours (at the element end) and test for continuity/resistance with wires of the same diameter and colour at the switch. You should get a reading of zero ohms if you have good continuity.
The easiest way to check the switch is visually. Make a note of the wiring colours and their positions on the switch terminals, disconnect them and remove the switch. See if anything looks broken or the
Some thermostats can be disassembled and inspected, but I don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing. The gap between the thermostat switch contacts needs to be precise or the oven wont heat to the correct temperate.
If you can establish that the wiring and switch are OK, try replacing the thermostat.
remove rear panels (3; 1 white, 2 galvanised).
look under rear folded edge of hob. remove 2 screws in corners. dont lose 2 top hat rubber washers. from rear of cooker, lift hob slightly and push forward 1/2". lift hob off. dont over tighten new thermocouple union on back of valve (note how tight old one was)
If it is a fan assisted oven, and the fan is working o/k, then I would suggest that you fit a new oven element, if the fan is not working, then you are going to have to investigate further.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.
Sounds like you need a new fan element. You'll need to quote your model to ensure you get the correct element. A lot of Whirlpools can be done from the inside so the oven stays in the housing. Don't forget to power off first though! :)
It sounds exactly the same as I am experiencing on my oven of the same model. My theory is that the full flame gas is controlled by a thermostat, and that this has broken hence why the oven only stays on preheat. This will be a matter of a replacement part. Most likely the thermostat is a bi-metal strip that, because it has heated and cooled so many times in it's life it has simply finally given up. Try searching online for the correct part and get a corgi registered fitter or another suitably qualified fitter to come and replace it.
Where are the fuses in this oven
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