On loading a fresh film into the camera the motor winds through to the last frame ie does not stop at first frame

Align film leader at mark, then close the camera back for prewind loading. Film rewinds as each shot is exposed. Built-in motor for automatic winding/rewinding. Film advance: Automatic. Single-frame and continuous (1 fps). Automatically rewinds film leader into cartridge when designated number of frames have been exposed (midroll rewind available).

sorce: http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/film/data/1996-2000/1999_eos3000.html?p=2
Canon Camera Museum Camera Hall Film Cameras

good luck

Should auto load film and wind all the way out, winding back I one frame as a time as shot. The end of the film must be flats (not bent) and placed within the confines of the red line in the film chamber.

if this doesn't work, the phase switch in the loading gear assembly may need to be cleaned. This is not easy, even for a tech.

Possible that the loading motor is having friction to load fully or that the film reel is too tight.
You can check the test without the film in place but by activation of the door switch.
If the reel pressure is good ,then the film reel might be badd or if the hand pressure stops the reel then the motor might be weak.
Hope the battery is charged. if not used recently let it run winding up to free.

if the film drive cogs are all ok then its the film advance drive gears on the motor drive striped or slipping,,you could test this by opening the camera and genteelly holding the film advance cogs with your finger and pressing the shutter if the film advance cogs stop turning then the drive gears are slipping or striped? this could be caused by the after load censer in the camera not censing the end of film roll and trying to get another frame out of it? like it read a 24ex as a 36ex but the censor faled to stop the motor drive winding on and that striped the gears

You've just found out why the last owner stopped using it: the camera has a partially seized film winding mechanism which causes the motor to draw a heavy current and causes a voltage drop internally to activate the low battery warning. It's a common problem on a camera which was never intended to still be in use.

The fix is simple, but you won't like it: chuck the camera away and replace it. Like all Rebel/EOS triple digit models it's a consumer grade model built and designed as cheaply as possible for Canon by Kodak. It was never designed to be repaired but instead was intended to last about five to six years before the owner upgraded to a better model.

The spares you require are unavailable, and even if you could get them you'd probably also need to replace the drive motor and other internal parts which have been overloaded both physically and electronically. It's simply much cheaper to either buy a replacement for next to nothing on an auction website or they're regularly available for zilch on FreeCycle and Freegle.

Sorry it's not the fix that you were hoping for, but at least I hope that I've saved you wasting further time and money on your camera. Please take a moment to rate my answer.

This is normal operation for the Canon Rebel film cameras, they are designed to pre-wind the film so each time you take a picture the camera winds it into the film cartridge. This means if the camera has a problem or the film door gets opened by accident your pictures are safe in the canister.

Unlike other cameras that start at frame #1 after loading and count up as the film is used, the N55 advance the film to the last frame during the loading process. When loading is complete, the frame counter stops at the number of available frames on the roll (usually 24 or 36) and counts down as photos are taken. I know it sounds backwards but it actually makes a lot of sense to engineer it this way. After the last photo is taken (displays 1 on the counter), the camera automatically winds the end of the film into the cassette and the counter shows a blinking E. I am assuming that that is what is being displayed and not a blinking F. it it is an F, perhaps there is a problem with the LCD display? If so, it probably isn't worth having it repaired.

Well, I'm not a camera repairman, but it sounds to me (and probably to you too) that the electronics are damaged or perhaps there's dust in the contacts inside. I also have an MZ-50. There's so many electronics involved and they don't age so gracefully. I would consider buying another one off eBay or you can get a ZX-30 (same as MZ-30) for $75 from Blue Moon Camera & Machine with a 1 year warranty (parts and labor). The best way would be, in my opinion, to get a manual, mechanical camera from the 1970s and put a good lens on it. Those seem to last forever. No electronics to worry about. Advance and rewind the film manually. You can use a digital camera as a light meter to set the aperture and shutter speed. I'm thinking of going this route when my MZ-50 finally conks out.