We have a maytag dishwasher MBDTT79A and it does not fill up with water. runs through cycle but everything dry. wifey stopped cycle in middle and it did have about 1/2" to 3/4" covering bottom.( I never saw this when i stopped it during cycle).
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If the dishwasher is hanging on in the middle of the cycle it is usually the heating system. If the temperature of the water is going up after filling, then the element may be working. The element is tested using a multi meter set on Ohms to read impedance across the heater element contacts. If impedance is infinity (open-off limit), then the element is gone. If the element is OK, then the bi-metal thermostat or the fuse must be replaced. The heating assembly is located at the base of the appliance, behind the kick panel.
Behind the kick panel you should also find the tech sheet illustrating how to run the diagnostic cycle for this model. Run a diagnostic cycle to confirm that the problem is with the heating system. Drain, water sensor and inlet problems sometimes may also result in cycle not finishing.
There are some things you can try, however, if your Maytag dishwasher is not getting your dishes as clean as you would like. Maytag recommends several processes for fixing this issue with your dishwasher.
Do not run your Maytag dishwasher while hot water is being used in other parts of your home, such as washing clothes or showering. Hot water is needed for your Maytag dishwasher to properly clean dishes.
Run water in the sink in your kitchen until it gets very hot. Then, turn on your Maytag dishwasher. This will ensure that the water cleaning your dishes is the hottest possible temperature.
Clean your Maytag dishwasher to improve the cleaning results for dishes. Run your dishwasher on a short wash cycle and wait for it to fill up with water. Stop the cycle and add about 1/3 of a cup of rust remover to the dishwasher and finish the cycle. Run your Maytag dishwasher through one normal cycle with regular detergent to finish the cleaning process.
Check your detergent. Old detergent or those that have been exposed to moisture can be clumpy. This detergent will not clean your dishes as well when loaded into your Maytag dishwasher. Purchase fresh detergent.
Use extra detergent when washing dishes that have a lot of built-up grease or food particles. The extra amount of detergent is needed to get your dishes clean. Choose a long cleaning cycle to clean these dishes.
Fill your Maytag dishwasher properly. Dishes should not be stacked on top of each other or excessively crammed into your dishwasher. This will keep the dishwasher from adequately cleaning all areas of your dishes and from rinsing them thoroughly.
Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
causing tank to shift in cut-out.
NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry
Not enough water entering dishwasher (check level after fill... Should be slightly below bottom wash arm)
Water filling but draining during wash cycle. Check toward end of wash cycle but before drain. See if water level is diminished from start of wash cycle.
New 'water saver' dishwashers are notorious for having smaller water jets, and thus easier to stop-up jets. Check the jets on all wash arms to be sure they are cleared of food particles.
Another way to check the wash arms is to manually position them at specific locations, momentarily run the dishwasher for a few seconds, then open the door to inspect the location of the wash arms. Do this three or four times to eliminate the possibility of coincidence.
If the wash arms do not move from the location that you put them, the most likely cause is food particles stopping up the water jets. These jets not only clean the dishes but also the water pressure they generate turn the arms inside the dishwasher to properly distribute water pressure on the dishes.
Sometimes you can dislodge and remove food particles stuck in one of the jets with a toothpick or other small probe. Others require that you remove the arm(s) and get a little more creative. I use compressed air to clear mine, but not everyone has access to compressed air, so use whatever you can to remove the food particles.
Simply dislodging them from the water ports is usually not effective... As soon as water pressure is applied, the particles return to the jets and stop them up again. The real fix in this instance is to completely remove the food particles from the arm if you can.
HEATED DRY.Turns the drying heater on for fast drying. ENERGY SAVER (no heat boost). Turns the drying heater off to save energy. Dishes will dry naturally over a longer period such as overnight. lf you need your dishes sooner, open the dishwasher door after the cycle is complete to reduce the natural drying time. Use of this option reduces the electrical energy used by this model approximately 7%. A rinse agent makes water flow off dishes quicker than usual. This lessens water spotting and makes drying faster, too. Make sure inlet water temperature is correct.(SeePage6.) Unload the bottom rack first.Water from dishes in the top rack may be spilling in to the bottom rack. Check for improper loading.Dishes shouldn’t nest together. Avoid overloading. Check the rinse agent dispenser to see that it’s not empty.
Inlet temperature....Good Dish washing starts with hot water, To get dishes clean and dry,you will need hot water.To help you get water of the proper temperature, your dish washer automatically heats the water in the wash cycle. For good washing and drying , the entering water must be at least 120°E To prevent dish damage, inlet water should not exceed 150”F. How to test water temperature: Check the water temperature inside your dishwasher with a candy or meat thermometer. Let the dishwasher run through one fill and pump out cycle, then let the dishwasher fill with water the second time. When you hear the water stop filling, unlatch the door and slowly open it. Measure the temperature of the water in the bottom of the tub this way: Remove the silverware basket and place a candy or meat thermometer in the water towards the middle of the tub. If the temperature is less than 120”F,you will not get good washing results. Higher water temperature is needed to dissolve grease and activate powder detergents. If the unit is a long way from the DW you may need to let the water run in the sink until hot before starting the DW....or if is a cold day and water has not been used in a while the pipes could be cold....also if you have just used the hot water ( washer, shower...etc) give it time to recover first before using DW....All of the above mentioned material is straight out of the Users guide...but you may have an element that is going out also...so check the temp of your water and open it during the drying cycle to see if it is hot or at least warm inside...if not your element may need to be replaced...
I hope this helps...have a great day & good luck...please rate my effort.... the Fang.
I'm not sure if it is suppose to fill above the heating element. The heating element may just be there to dry the dishes instead of heating the water. Try using a pitcher to fill the unit manually to above the heating element. If water drips out from below the kick plate then you know the water is not suppose to go that high. Let’s say the unit is indeed under filling. Check for a deformed shaft on the water level float. Remove the kick plate and look for where the shaft of the float touches a micro switch. Often the shaft is bent sideways and only engaging the micro switch indirectly. Straighten by hand for a temporary fix or reinforce the shaft with aluminum tape and sewing needle. Keep the retrofit light weight to avoid problems with water overflow.
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